Bought a very bad condition SP10Mk2, without power supply unit.
Still unsure if its working at all. Fingers crossed !
Still unsure if its working at all. Fingers crossed !
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I would like to file a complaint about what a terrible influence this thread has been...😉
While I may have paid a little over the average for my SP-10MK2, I was able to pick up quite a few extras to go with it. Such as an admittedly ratty looking broadcast plinth and atp-12t tonearm. I also got a Straight Wire Audio rack-mount pre, and a lot of documents and manuals. Once I took into account the extras, I considered it a deal I couldn’t refuse...
This unit has been modified to be controlled from a mixing deck, but the mod looks to be easily reversed. I also have documents about a speed control mod, but thankfully this one never had it installed.
Edit: I apologize for the upside down pictures, stupid cell phone...
While I may have paid a little over the average for my SP-10MK2, I was able to pick up quite a few extras to go with it. Such as an admittedly ratty looking broadcast plinth and atp-12t tonearm. I also got a Straight Wire Audio rack-mount pre, and a lot of documents and manuals. Once I took into account the extras, I considered it a deal I couldn’t refuse...
This unit has been modified to be controlled from a mixing deck, but the mod looks to be easily reversed. I also have documents about a speed control mod, but thankfully this one never had it installed.
Edit: I apologize for the upside down pictures, stupid cell phone...
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Duly noted.
Please re-file or redact said complaint back when you finally hear the table working properly. 😀 😀 😀
Hi Forks, I need your help.
I have two SP10 MIK2s. Both rotates with some sort of vibration at all speed.
I recaped power supply and changed C2, C4, and C6.
Scope shows wave point S and T are not in sync and T has some noise as well.
Which part should I check?
Any help would be appreciated.
I have two SP10 MIK2s. Both rotates with some sort of vibration at all speed.
I recaped power supply and changed C2, C4, and C6.
Scope shows wave point S and T are not in sync and T has some noise as well.
Which part should I check?
Any help would be appreciated.
Have it back again!
Some years ago I gave an ex BBC motor and PS unit to a well recommended engineer for a PS repair and service. Only now have I been able to collect these items.
The motor unit had been previously heavily modded by removing sub-platter control boards to the PS unit case, Being a P style deck, the PS had a RIAA section since ripped out thus giving (just) enough space. The service included making a very good job of rewiring the interface, various repairs and a total re-cap.
I intend mounting the motor - without top plate - and platter in a high-mass plinth/base without on board electronic switches, boards etc! (start/stop, speed control and selectors are now on the facia of the power unit). Prior to this the TT was quieter than a normal unit in the full mineral Technics plinth!!!
I have a few other chores to do but hope that I will be able to keep you up to date on progress on this TT.
Lastly - for the moment - the poor guy who repaired the motor/PS has had catastrophes - one by one including having his laptop stolen, bad COPD, etc etc. Yet he had my items after a period of years! My contact details were on the stolen computer. He is - I am sure - totally straight forward but in the light of circumstances has got a rather bad name which I hope he will soon be able to clear. If you too have had similar problems please send me your email address, proper name and a list of the goods which are with this man in SW England and I will forward him details as I know that he is very keen to get such goods back to their owners. If this applies to you you will know who I am writing about. Please don't give his or his company's name on this forum. Thanks.
Some years ago I gave an ex BBC motor and PS unit to a well recommended engineer for a PS repair and service. Only now have I been able to collect these items.
The motor unit had been previously heavily modded by removing sub-platter control boards to the PS unit case, Being a P style deck, the PS had a RIAA section since ripped out thus giving (just) enough space. The service included making a very good job of rewiring the interface, various repairs and a total re-cap.
I intend mounting the motor - without top plate - and platter in a high-mass plinth/base without on board electronic switches, boards etc! (start/stop, speed control and selectors are now on the facia of the power unit). Prior to this the TT was quieter than a normal unit in the full mineral Technics plinth!!!
I have a few other chores to do but hope that I will be able to keep you up to date on progress on this TT.
Lastly - for the moment - the poor guy who repaired the motor/PS has had catastrophes - one by one including having his laptop stolen, bad COPD, etc etc. Yet he had my items after a period of years! My contact details were on the stolen computer. He is - I am sure - totally straight forward but in the light of circumstances has got a rather bad name which I hope he will soon be able to clear. If you too have had similar problems please send me your email address, proper name and a list of the goods which are with this man in SW England and I will forward him details as I know that he is very keen to get such goods back to their owners. If this applies to you you will know who I am writing about. Please don't give his or his company's name on this forum. Thanks.
Well...it works!
I made a routered-out temporary (test) plinth from a kitchen worktop off-cut in solid oak and bolted the motor unit into the recess. It has been running for some 6 hours with frequent speed changes along with many stops and start-ups.
Everything works except the strobe (damage to that section of the board). The new lead with all boards in the large PS (ex.BBC) case is beautifully crafted. All el caps are new as are most diodes and quite a few resistors. The case is a little low internally for the original Tx so I may eventually make a really solid replacement for the somewhat nasty original.
I will put up some pics in the next day or two.
There will be no sound for a while as I have to either get some bearing balls to reassemble my elderly Zeta arm and then rewire it - or finish a dual pivot arm which is being machined elsewhere.
I made a routered-out temporary (test) plinth from a kitchen worktop off-cut in solid oak and bolted the motor unit into the recess. It has been running for some 6 hours with frequent speed changes along with many stops and start-ups.
Everything works except the strobe (damage to that section of the board). The new lead with all boards in the large PS (ex.BBC) case is beautifully crafted. All el caps are new as are most diodes and quite a few resistors. The case is a little low internally for the original Tx so I may eventually make a really solid replacement for the somewhat nasty original.
I will put up some pics in the next day or two.
There will be no sound for a while as I have to either get some bearing balls to reassemble my elderly Zeta arm and then rewire it - or finish a dual pivot arm which is being machined elsewhere.
I'll second that. I just bought an SP10Mk2 for about $850USD. Now I have to decide what arm I will put with it.
Make a plinth with removable armboards. Try lots of arms! 🙂
You'll find that a lot of the magic of this table is the table itself.
You'll find that a lot of the magic of this table is the table itself.
Arm sorted I bought a complete EPA100 out of Japan.
But I will make the plinth with removable arm boards.
But I will make the plinth with removable arm boards.
Well, you're not going to find a much better arm than the EPA100... so you might be sorted! 🙂 🙂 🙂
My next SP-10 will have an EPA of some variety. I've always thought the EPA500 was really neat, with the removable armwands.
My next SP-10 will have an EPA of some variety. I've always thought the EPA500 was really neat, with the removable armwands.
The Infinity Black Widow sounds mighty awesome on mine:
Pics: 1976 Technics SP-10 MKII with Black Widow Tonearm and Micro Acoustic 3002 cart. - Album on Imgur
Pics: 1976 Technics SP-10 MKII with Black Widow Tonearm and Micro Acoustic 3002 cart. - Album on Imgur
There is one of those for sale here in Aus for $800AUD I did look at it and is nearly 3 times less than I paid for the EPA100.
That is a question I am interested in. I have 2 carts Rega Apheta2 and original Linn K5 with LPGear HE stylus. I was Looking at either Ortofon 2M Black or Nagaoka MP500.
When I get it up and running I'll fit both Rega and K5, but I will probably sell the Apheta with my RP8
If I could find an affordable EPA100 I think it would have to be a panasonic EPC100 or 205 to go with it. But finding a good Mk3 or Mk4 is hard to impossible...
I had one which came with a previous SP-10 in full obsidian plinth. Trying it with any low impedance MC was a waste of time. They simply produce too much physical energy for such an arm. As for using it with a very early (E stylus) Kondo Io...I sold the arm pretty fast. Even a beaten up old Zeta was a far better sounding arm with my preferred MCs. This is why I posed the question on cartridge choice.....[now if I still had an ADC 25/26 I may well hold a different opinion]
So Bill, being familiar with your taste in cartridges I would save about a similar sum and get a really good FR-64/66S!
[One guy I knew was collecting these FRs as ornaments for his home, his work office and others like him have driven up the price of such arms to ridiculous levels. I bought three ex. demo 64S arms in about 1982 for a fraction over £100 average! I have none of them...I sold, I lent and the borrower left the country - with my arm and the third was sold when it appeared that my SP-10 had also been mis-appropriated. I have that back again in brilliant fully repaired and updated throughout form]
So Bill, being familiar with your taste in cartridges I would save about a similar sum and get a really good FR-64/66S!
[One guy I knew was collecting these FRs as ornaments for his home, his work office and others like him have driven up the price of such arms to ridiculous levels. I bought three ex. demo 64S arms in about 1982 for a fraction over £100 average! I have none of them...I sold, I lent and the borrower left the country - with my arm and the third was sold when it appeared that my SP-10 had also been mis-appropriated. I have that back again in brilliant fully repaired and updated throughout form]
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Give it a try if it's cheap 🙂
I own two, one on my SP-10 MKII and one on a Denon DP-755.