Well that's not surprising, ceramic ball bearings are great for very high speed high temperature use, or if no lubricant can be used, or in the wet. They are amazing for that. None of that is of any use to a turntable AFAICT. Ceramic bearings are very cute of course.
@Warrjon. You might also want to consider an AT-23 which would look great on that arm and the rare but lovely DL-109 which is not as pretty but does work well.
(I know shouldn't be encouraging you)
(I know shouldn't be encouraging you)
Don't understand why you splash out for such a beautiful arm, but not want to run the best possible cartridge on it? I'd love to have that arm for my old AT33PTG.
jeff
I wouldn't say the EPC100 and EPC205 or Stanton 881S are low end cartridges. I have had a few MC carts, Linn Troika, Apheta and Apheta 2, I prefer MM.
I have just fitted the AT95 to my Rega RP8 and played it through Boozhounds phono pre, Total out lay for this would be under $500. My Rega Apheta 2 and Aria phono set me back $4.3K, Does the Apheta sound 10 times better definitely not, I prefer the AT95 although it has less detail but this could be the stylus HE against Fine Line.
Finally my SP10 arrived.
Set it up and gave it a test. Bearing spins well. I have ordered a new thrust pad, ceramic bearing and oil. I'll pull it down strip it and paint it Black, or maybe gun metal grey........... Time to build a plinth...
I have a few things to fix.
Runs slightly slow. I only have 1 scope probe, I've ordered another so I will adjust the PLL as soon as it arrives
One of the platter mounting screws is stripped in the sub platter. Haven't decided how to repair this yet, I may either drill it out to 8mm and insert a plug then re-tap - or re-drill and tap all 3 M4 and make new mounting screws, jury is out on this one.
Checked platter vertical runout and 0.09mm (0.0035") This maybe due to stripped thread. I'll polish the platter in the lathe then check it again once I have repaired the stripped thread.
I'll re-balance the platter and sub platter once I have repaired and polished it. More work I need to build a balancing rig.
Set it up and gave it a test. Bearing spins well. I have ordered a new thrust pad, ceramic bearing and oil. I'll pull it down strip it and paint it Black, or maybe gun metal grey........... Time to build a plinth...
I have a few things to fix.
Runs slightly slow. I only have 1 scope probe, I've ordered another so I will adjust the PLL as soon as it arrives
One of the platter mounting screws is stripped in the sub platter. Haven't decided how to repair this yet, I may either drill it out to 8mm and insert a plug then re-tap - or re-drill and tap all 3 M4 and make new mounting screws, jury is out on this one.
Checked platter vertical runout and 0.09mm (0.0035") This maybe due to stripped thread. I'll polish the platter in the lathe then check it again once I have repaired the stripped thread.
I'll re-balance the platter and sub platter once I have repaired and polished it. More work I need to build a balancing rig.
Attachments
Good work. I like the colour you painted it. What is the colour btw.
I hope to have mine operational in a month..... My biggest problem is I live in a rural area so I have order everything online and wait.
Platter
Hi,looking for info on the stainless steel platter mentioned multiple times,would love on for Sp10Mk2
Dave
Hi,looking for info on the stainless steel platter mentioned multiple times,would love on for Sp10Mk2
Dave
Hi the description explains that the whole frame has been sandblasted, the black strip has been completely redone.
I was undecided whether to make it silver or black, then for aesthetics I preferred to make it black strip.
https://i.postimg.cc/prd6FMNH/DSCN5101.jpg
Not sure if I should start a new thread for my SP10 or carry on here. So If the mods want a new thread let me know.
Anyway I'll carry on.
I knew the TT was running fast on 33 and 78 but I got a reasonable deal on it.
I spent a couple hrs today diagnosing the problem which turned out to be a bad transistor TR129 in the Control Circuit board.
First pic is period adjustment waveform pretty yuck, 2nd pic is the input to the CC PCB so the issue is most likely on the CC. The wave on the base of TR109 was good and base of TR129 nothing. These are a 2SC828 and one substitute is KSC1815Y and are available at RS Comp although I had to buy 200, I'm set for life to repair may SP10's.
Check the PS and tweaked the 32.5V checked ripple on both 32.5 and 5V less than 1mV so button it up and leave it.
Next is to repair the stripped thread in the sub platter
..
Anyway I'll carry on.
I knew the TT was running fast on 33 and 78 but I got a reasonable deal on it.
I spent a couple hrs today diagnosing the problem which turned out to be a bad transistor TR129 in the Control Circuit board.
First pic is period adjustment waveform pretty yuck, 2nd pic is the input to the CC PCB so the issue is most likely on the CC. The wave on the base of TR109 was good and base of TR129 nothing. These are a 2SC828 and one substitute is KSC1815Y and are available at RS Comp although I had to buy 200, I'm set for life to repair may SP10's.
Check the PS and tweaked the 32.5V checked ripple on both 32.5 and 5V less than 1mV so button it up and leave it.
Next is to repair the stripped thread in the sub platter
..
Attachments
This is a great place for it, or start your own, it's all good! 
Keep posting lots of photos, it helps all people following to keep these incredible machines alive.
Keep posting lots of photos, it helps all people following to keep these incredible machines alive.