The Incredible Technics SP-10 Thread

If I could find an affordable EPA100 I think it would have to be a panasonic EPC100 or 205 to go with it. But finding a good Mk3 or Mk4 is hard to impossible...

There is a ECP100Mk3 on eBay out of Japan for $1000US.



I just bought an EPC100 with a broken cantilever for $230US, will most likely send it to Van den Hul for repair, or there is guy advertising on eBay to replace the cantilever with Titanium and new diamond for $330US.

Anyone used this service?

Technics EPC-100CMK3 Titanium Cantilever Nude 2x7 Elliptical Cartridge Retipping | eBay
 
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Problem with the Mk3 and 4 is I am not sure anyone has worked out exactly how the suspension was made. Almost everything else is butyl rubber and fixable.



For most of my repairs I use a nice Guy in Vladivostok. He gave my 205C-IIL a check over and clean bill of health recently. He's made me a number of one off rebuilds that I am very happy with.
 
I have always had BD TT my first Linn LP12 I bought new in 1983. I was looking for a new project and the SP10 kept coming up with the EPA100 so here I am.

I did my apprenticeship with Marantz in the early 80's and Technics was a major competitor in both the high end and consumer market, so I was aware of their quality.

There is another EPA100 for sale out of Japan without the headshell.

Beautiful Technics EPA-100 Tonearm with Phono Cable F/S | eBay
 
Don't know if I ever shared these here. This is an EPA-100 that had damaged ruby bearings that I replaced with Si3N4. First clip is me dropping a 1mg weight on the headshell to demonstrate how low the bearing stiction is. Second is the arm in free-air at 8x realtime. This was in my basement where the only sources of air movement would be leaking ducts or doors. I had very slowly left the room 5 minutes before and closed the door.

YouTube

YouTube
 
Thanks JP, great info, I was going to use a similar method to check my EPA100 when it arrives. I'll mount it so I can turn it 90° to check lateral bearings.

I have heard of someone rebuilding EPA-100 with Si3N4 bearings. I hope I will not have to do that. I bought is off eBay from a seller with 100% + feedback and paid a premium for it.

Did you replace the bearing cup as well? What size balls?
 
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I think just banging a sapphire in may cause issues. The people I am avoiding talking to are True Point Audio They started off doing precision bearings for industry and have a full range on their more serious website then moved into modding SME 3009 arms and rebuilding bearings on pink triange. Sadly they've lost some cred since I last went there as they now sell cable lifters.



The Kenwood arm I have on an inherited turntable I originally wrote off as being some shiny cheap japanese monstrosity, but it's rather good. Spec when new was 10mg on the bearings, which is twice the EPA100 but still not shoddy. Having had the bearing get sticky one I do wonder if, after 40 odd years it might need some TLC.



Sorry for drifting a little OT here.
 
The Kenwood arm I have on an inherited turntable I originally wrote off as being some shiny cheap japanese monstrosity, but it's rather good. Spec when new was 10mg on the bearings, which is twice the EPA100 but still not shoddy. Having had the bearing get sticky one I do wonder if, after 40 odd years it might need some TLC.

Looking at specs for SME309 and the eye wateringly expensive DV507 neither of these manufacturers specify bearing friction. So I would guess its a lot more than some of these early highend Japanese arms. Interestingly Jelco do list friction as 30mg horizontal and vertical.

Arm arrived this morning, good on Australia post, the SP10 that is coming from NSW and posted 2 days before the tonearm that came from Japan is still not here yet.....


I built a frame to hold the arm while it sits in my lab. I thought I would check the bearing friction. I do not have calibration trim weights or a 1mg balance, so I guestimated 10mg and cut a bit of aluminium flashing to put on the headshell.

The arm looks brand new, even the headshell has not a mark on it. The bearing are in tip top shape, you can see the top horizontal bearing with a loupe and it is pristine. to say I am pleased is an understatement. Can't wait to get the SP10 and the EPA mounted and spin some vinyl.
 

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Don't know if I ever shared these here. This is an EPA-100 that had damaged ruby bearings that I replaced with Si3N4. First clip is me dropping a 1mg weight on the headshell to demonstrate how low the bearing stiction is. Second is the arm in free-air at 8x realtime. This was in my basement where the only sources of air movement would be leaking ducts or doors. I had very slowly left the room 5 minutes before and closed the door.

YouTube

YouTube


WOW...I go crazy when I get arms with very low friction; who did the job?
 
Yes, JP, do tell what the diameter of the balls is. There was a gentleman, now deceased, who did a number of replacements of units with damaged ruby bearings. Lots of pictures and info, but no specific sizes/sources were given. Sadly, his information departed with him.
 
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the EPA 100 allows a rather vast choice of heads but like all tonearms it cannot do miracles; for heavy MCs it is necessary to replace the original counterweight by applying the sub conterweight optional.:D
]

I don't plan on using an MC, I will be selling my last MC which is an almost brand new (2 months old) Rega Apheta 2.

I have an old Linn K5 (AT95e) which I bought new with an LP12 in 1983 that now sports an LPGear HE stylus, this is a surprisingly good cartridge for the money. I also bought a Technics EPC100 and EPC205C and have my eyes on a Stanton 881S so MM only from now on.