I know Antek says the mains hot goes to the red primary. If the black is hot, you have it wrong way round. So from the IEC you should have N (white) going to black primary and the hot (L) of the IEC will go to red primary of the trans.
I'm still pretty green, so someone please correct me if I'm wrong... if so, I need to rewire 5 amps lol.
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I do suspect that your fuses are fastblow type fuses. 1A, 2A, 3A, 4A, 5A and so on are usualy fastblow type. 1,25A, 1,75A, 2,5A, 3,15A, 6,3A and so on are slowblow.
Thanks guys for taking the time to help. I didn't order slow fuses from Mouser. All I can source locally are the fast burns.
You will probably pop those 3A fuses as well if they are fast blow, the spike when you flip the switch is pretty harsh, especially if the inrush are up to temp.
You don't want to just keep going up in fuse size on fast blow until you get one that doesn't blow. For instance, it might take a 6A fast blow to keep it from popping, but that is way more than you want during operation.
In other words, order some slow blows.
Also, swap those mains, you did see my post?
J
I have another issue I'm dealing with since late last night. I'm up early working on it. My channel B is wonky. Only that side. Channel A works fine. With channel B hooked up if I just barely turn the potentiometer I get a LOUD pop. My korg isn't the issue it works fine with another amp. I switched the daughter cards and same thing. I checked for continuity on the input and output on channel B, all good. I'm now going to put the daughter cards back in and try raising the volume before powering up. I have the Mtn Vw card in now and did the volume before turning it on and theres music. I'm not sure if the volume is low till I put back the DC on channel a.
I will order the slow blows thanks. And I did the switch at the iec side. Like you said. I appreciate it.
I don't think I would want to raise volume (input voltage) until I knew what the hell was going on there.
This is beyond what I feel comfortable helping with, I don't want to suggest things where I might do more harm than good, so for troubleshooting, I will defer to the more knowledgeable people here.
Thanks for your help earlier Thompsontechs and Audiosan. You've helped plenty. I have it on now with a normal volume and it sounds amazing! I like it so much I could live with removing the pot knob and leaving it🙂
Could just be the pot, but you would think the pop would be heard using the other amp too.
one way of determening if its the amp or the pot/korg is to switch the inputs left/right. Or even better, measure the output of the korg with a multimeter when you turn the pot. My guess is that it is the pot. Your other amp may have inputcaps that takes the hit.
I like it,,, 🙂
Just make sure you give the inrush time to cool before you turn it back on, or you may get a pop fuse or speakers.
I'll give it at try. I'll measure the out put from the korg. I tried running the speakers direct. I thought maybe was a bad right speaker terminal grounding through the rear panel, maybe touching, but no, still the same.
I think you guys got it! The left output levels out to almost zero when 5 seconds or so. The right channel which is my channel B on the 2x takes 15 seconds to zero out.
The left out put stays with in .1 to .2 as you turn the pot up.
The right goes all over the place as you increase the volume! It's up to 300mv back down to zero in a blink!
The left out put stays with in .1 to .2 as you turn the pot up.
The right goes all over the place as you increase the volume! It's up to 300mv back down to zero in a blink!
With the korg warming up it gets a little better on channel b, but it's still oscillating as you barely turn the pot. Jumps back and forth from 80mv back to 1.something. With the pot knob about 180 degrees from off it settles down even when you turn it.
I'm going to open the Korg and take a look after I eat something. It's almost lunch time and I haven't had breakfast!
What a relief. I had thoughts of pulling the amp board. I was checking continuity on Q7 cause it got bent when I was wiring. I'd rather trouble shoot the korg, easier to handle.
I can't say thank you enough Audiosan and Thompsontechs for sticking with me. I'll let you know in a few hours what I find
What a relief. I had thoughts of pulling the amp board. I was checking continuity on Q7 cause it got bent when I was wiring. I'd rather trouble shoot the korg, easier to handle.
I can't say thank you enough Audiosan and Thompsontechs for sticking with me. I'll let you know in a few hours what I find
It's definitely the pot. The right side goes crazy right out of the gate from the mini top pcb on the pot. I'll order one from mouser tomorrow. Any ideas on a good one I'd appreciate any and all suggestions? I'll go back in the posts I know there's quite a discussion on upgrading the pot.
Alps RK27 is a nice pot in the lower price end.
If you ask 50 people, you probably get 40 different answers regarding the best pot.
If you ask 50 people, you probably get 40 different answers regarding the best pot.
Thanks I'm over at the B1 with Korg triode thread. Yes that's what I meant the long discussion on pots is still on over there. Interesting reading. Thanks again for your insight
Alps or TKD, both are good, I use TKD, but never had an issue with Alps and they are a bit cheaper.