I've been using Toroidy transformers for several of my builds now. I have used the "Supremes" only once, as output transformers for my EL84PP amp, but that was mostly for looks.
In my FirstWatt-style amps, I have always used the "Audio" transformers. 500VA for Aleph J and M2 stereo PSU. Aleph J is dead silent into 100 dB/W speakers, M2 with a barely detectable hum with my ear close to the speaker driver.
2x 400VA for dual mono PSU for my SissySIT. Dead silent as well.
I'm not sure if the significant extra cost for the "Supremes" is worth it, especially if they're hidden inside the chassis and only you know about it ...
Regards, Claas
Howzit everyone. This is as far as I can get for now. I didn't order all that is needed. Oh well....I was home on vacation and I'm going back to work for 3 months and unfortunately I can't bring my hobby with me.
I need minor items, just a few things that I want to order through Mouser.
What you see in the chassis is all loosely bolted for temp just for storage.. Please fill free to critic and please advise as necessary. I appreciate the support from this great community. I'll keep up the reading in these posts on DiyAudio.
JJ
Oh well....I was home on vacation and I'm going back to work for 3 months and unfortunately I can't bring my hobby with me.I need minor items, just a few things that I want to order through Mouser.
What you see in the chassis is all loosely bolted for temp just for storage.. Please fill free to critic and please advise as necessary. I appreciate the support from this great community. I'll keep up the reading in these posts on DiyAudio.
JJ
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Help with troubleshooting - DC on the speaker outs
I had the M2x running for a month and had to make some changes to the enclosure last night.Since then the speaker protection circuit turns on and disconnects the outputs.
I checked the DC voltage on the outputs without any input. Left channel was showing about -0.8v and right was showing about 18v.
What could be the potential cause and where do I start troubleshooting from? If there is a schematic that shows the voltage at different points that would be helpful.
Thanks,
Subbu
I had the M2x running for a month and had to make some changes to the enclosure last night.Since then the speaker protection circuit turns on and disconnects the outputs.
I checked the DC voltage on the outputs without any input. Left channel was showing about -0.8v and right was showing about 18v.
What could be the potential cause and where do I start troubleshooting from? If there is a schematic that shows the voltage at different points that would be helpful.
Thanks,
Subbu
What were your offset voltages before this event? What changes did you make?
I don't remember what were the offset but when I turned on the speaker protection did not kick in and it was working. I had Mt. View IPS for sometime and changed to Ishikawa IPS for the past week.
The changes I made were to move one of the boards to the other side of the chassis for better cooling.
Thanks
Hi, I checked the supplies and the heat sinks. They are correct and no continuity between the pins and heat sink.
Uhm... yes, I understand, but could you be more specific please?
I mean, what will change? Does the frequency change?
The reason I ask is that I want to use this amp for a horn speaker from 1325Hz≈20kHz onley. I had planned to filter active, but maybe this is possible by change some parts in the design.
I’m sure I’ve seen someone with similar symptoms...I just haven’t located the post yet.
So I've been trying to convince myself to spend the $$ and build one of these sweet amps. The chassis seems like the biggest expense. I'd like to build my own, partially to exercise my creative muscles, and partially to save on cost (though I think it's nearly impossible to beat the diyaudiostore Dissipante chassis). The trickiest bit is the heat sinks. I found these cool ones from Mable Audio, but they don't quote a dissipation spec.
The idea would be to get two for each side for an approximately 3U x ~400mm deep chassis. They look kind of similar to the production M2, but I'm not sure if they are adequate. Does anyone think they can eyeball it?
The idea would be to get two for each side for an approximately 3U x ~400mm deep chassis. They look kind of similar to the production M2, but I'm not sure if they are adequate. Does anyone think they can eyeball it?
I'm hoping to build an Amp with under 5 w for a pair of fostex speakers that also fits neatly on an office desktop. Can the output of this Amp be reduced and thus significantly reduce build size (especially power supply and heatsinks), or would you fine folks suggest another small Amp? Thanks!
I am unaware of a Class A design that meets your size and output power requirements for amp and PS. There are plenty of Class D integrateds that will fit your bill, of course.
ACA is close only because the PS is separate, and can be located with the other bricks for the equipment on a desk.
There is room in the ACA kit chassis to install volume control pot, if one is needed.
This is the (long standing) question you need to answer for yourself:
Efficiency and good sound (Class D), or inefficiency and great sound (Class A)?
ACA is close only because the PS is separate, and can be located with the other bricks for the equipment on a desk.
There is room in the ACA kit chassis to install volume control pot, if one is needed.
This is the (long standing) question you need to answer for yourself:
Efficiency and good sound (Class D), or inefficiency and great sound (Class A)?
Csdawson - 4 of those would be quite nice. 
Do you have access to the tools and such to build your own chassis? It’s a fairly major undertaking, if you can do it, awesome!
B4bz - as mazeppa says, you can’t make them that small. I’d suggest finding more room, as the sound quality is mindblowing. If you’ve never heard a real class-A amp, you’ll instantly understand what all the fuss is about.
Do you have access to the tools and such to build your own chassis? It’s a fairly major undertaking, if you can do it, awesome!B4bz - as mazeppa says, you can’t make them that small. I’d suggest finding more room, as the sound quality is mindblowing. If you’ve never heard a real class-A amp, you’ll instantly understand what all the fuss is about.
Big ol’ example of “use whatever ya got.” Value and composition is mostly immaterial, because you are putting it across 3300uF. It’s a good place to use up something fancy you’ve got on hand left over from a different project. The bypass was put there because some people think it may be important. Perhaps it is.