Thanks, Mark. There used to be a major Intel fab in an area called Sheraton here. Sadly it's now a shopping mall - it was that big. Nice name, though, if you want to stretch a point. Will ask some of the rum-drinkers in Jamaica and Trinidad if they have a functioning plant.
Thank you. Was hours of fun! And it saved at least $500 in getting a chassis here. Looking for another one for monoblocks….
@derekr - WOW! I need to start looking around for some cast-offs.
Thank you all for the kind comments. It settles at around 45 Degrees Celsius right behind the MOSFET mounting points according to the handheld. Not the most accurate device but those heat sinks are doing their job. Going to try the LT1122’s in the Tucson after I have a handle on the currently installed rarities. I will also try to juggle a trial of two ‘double’ Sparkos discrete opamps after the Christmas distractions.
It's not really within the naming guidelines of post #1 in this thread. And worse yet, if we went by the preferences and proclivities of the IPS lead circuit designer, we'd wind up with the mundane and pedestrian name "Appleton," which sounds more like Houdini's home town in Wisconsin than an idyllic Caribbean paradise. Or "Clément" which conjures up mental images of a jovial but incompetent bus driver in Montreal.
Pity rum distilleries’ names aren’t on the cards. There are dozens of distilleries in the islands, one or three with interesting names: Cockspur, Kraken, VAT 19.
The last is an actual rum not the name of the distillery but hey ho. Foursquare is the next rockstar of the sipping rum world - their just-released 2007 is...proper.
If you’re ever in my neck of the woods don’t miss The Rum Vault. I’ll come with you.....
Apologies for the OT.
The last is an actual rum not the name of the distillery but hey ho. Foursquare is the next rockstar of the sipping rum world - their just-released 2007 is...proper.
If you’re ever in my neck of the woods don’t miss The Rum Vault. I’ll come with you.....
Apologies for the OT.
LOL, I don't know Clément, but I know Ralph Kramden. And that's not a good mental image!
Attachments
My M2x doesn't get that hot
I recently built an M2x, pretty much as stock as possible, and have a few concerns before I connect my good speakers to it.
When I plugged in the M2x to a dim bulb current limiter, the 25W bulb comes on initially and then dims to nothing. That is what I expected but after about a minute, the bulb starts to glow again at partial brightness. This might be the normal behavior as the MOSFETs on the amp boards bias but I didn't see anyone else mention the bulb coming back on.
I've installed the Mtn_View daughtercards. I was able to set the DC offset on both channels to between 0 and 1mv with inputs shorted. My other concern is that the amp is only drawing 148W as measured by a Kill-A-Watt device and the heatsinks don't get that hot. After an hour of warming up, I can keep my hand on them for at least 60 seconds and probably indefinitely. I'm using the 4U universal chassis and don't yet have the bottom cover attached but did have the top cover resting on the chassis.
I went ahead and connected a pair of sacrificial speakers and confirmed the DC offset was still correct. There is absolutely no background noise or hum on the speakers. The only source I've connected so far is an iPad headphone jack and when playing at full volume on the iPad, the sound level coming out of the sacrifical speakers is just a bit louder than my normal listening level. My existing system will feed an Acurus RL-11 preamp to this amp until I build a replacement. The sound is really good even with the sacrificial speakers. I can't wait to try it with a good source and speakers.
Is there anything else I can check before trying it out in my system or does anything I've described sound like something is wrong?
I measured the voltage drop acress R13 and R14 and assuming the R values for those were really 0R47, calculated the current. Unless I'm making a mistake, the current at those points is about 1.41A.
I'm a noob to DIY audio projects so any advice is welcome.
I recently built an M2x, pretty much as stock as possible, and have a few concerns before I connect my good speakers to it.
When I plugged in the M2x to a dim bulb current limiter, the 25W bulb comes on initially and then dims to nothing. That is what I expected but after about a minute, the bulb starts to glow again at partial brightness. This might be the normal behavior as the MOSFETs on the amp boards bias but I didn't see anyone else mention the bulb coming back on.
I've installed the Mtn_View daughtercards. I was able to set the DC offset on both channels to between 0 and 1mv with inputs shorted. My other concern is that the amp is only drawing 148W as measured by a Kill-A-Watt device and the heatsinks don't get that hot. After an hour of warming up, I can keep my hand on them for at least 60 seconds and probably indefinitely. I'm using the 4U universal chassis and don't yet have the bottom cover attached but did have the top cover resting on the chassis.
I went ahead and connected a pair of sacrificial speakers and confirmed the DC offset was still correct. There is absolutely no background noise or hum on the speakers. The only source I've connected so far is an iPad headphone jack and when playing at full volume on the iPad, the sound level coming out of the sacrifical speakers is just a bit louder than my normal listening level. My existing system will feed an Acurus RL-11 preamp to this amp until I build a replacement. The sound is really good even with the sacrificial speakers. I can't wait to try it with a good source and speakers.
Is there anything else I can check before trying it out in my system or does anything I've described sound like something is wrong?
I measured the voltage drop acress R13 and R14 and assuming the R values for those were really 0R47, calculated the current. Unless I'm making a mistake, the current at those points is about 1.41A.
I'm a noob to DIY audio projects so any advice is welcome.
HTML:
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left
R13 0.666 1.42
R14 0.662 1.41
right
R13 0.662 1.41
R14 0.662 1.41I found in the other M2x thread that my experience with the dim bulb tester was normal. I also saw that 148W is not too low. I’ll check the rail voltage under load and see if it’s in the 21-24V range. I guess if that’s the case, I’ll try it in my system.
I wonder if the input boards we don't use in the moment for our M2X could get a new life as preamp buffers?
Maybe input boards would sound different when Edcor is not the load?
I was thinking of a mechanical interface with 4 screws for easy exchange, a +-24V (or less) PSU, a pot and RCA in, out. This could also be a nice test bench when new input boards has been made. The compact size could be an advantage in terms of noise pickup. The Ishikawa boards is a "mini" B1 buffer preamp?
Maybe input boards would sound different when Edcor is not the load?
I was thinking of a mechanical interface with 4 screws for easy exchange, a +-24V (or less) PSU, a pot and RCA in, out. This could also be a nice test bench when new input boards has been made. The compact size could be an advantage in terms of noise pickup. The Ishikawa boards is a "mini" B1 buffer preamp?