Re: Re: CSS SD12 Subduction
Qts is a tad higher, Vas a bit lower than SD12, so it should work well in the same (or slightly tweaked) BIB. Do you have the requisite 9 foot ceilings? Or are you going to lay it on the floor and build a long couch around it?
dave
layertone said:
Qts is a tad higher, Vas a bit lower than SD12, so it should work well in the same (or slightly tweaked) BIB. Do you have the requisite 9 foot ceilings? Or are you going to lay it on the floor and build a long couch around it?
dave
Re: Re: CSS SD12 Subduction
Greets!
LLT?
Not quite sure if you want just a BIB, a BIB sub similar to what's referenced or the TC driver in it, so here's a BIB (driver at standard offset) that's the same folded height, but requires a larger width/depth:
L = 190.5"
zdriver = 41.375"
Sm = ~334.41"^2 (recommend ~15.375" W x 21.75" D)
a-b-c = 10.875"
GM
layertone said:
Greets!
LLT?
Not quite sure if you want just a BIB, a BIB sub similar to what's referenced or the TC driver in it, so here's a BIB (driver at standard offset) that's the same folded height, but requires a larger width/depth:
L = 190.5"
zdriver = 41.375"
Sm = ~334.41"^2 (recommend ~15.375" W x 21.75" D)
a-b-c = 10.875"
GM
Attachments
Re: Re: Re: CSS SD12 Subduction
I asked the same question when i recently ran into the term. Essentially an EBS but with the goal of tuning the box such that the low frequency roll-off of the plate-amp/HT reciever is higher than where the woofer unloads. (not doable id you have a nice DC coupled amp)
dave
GM said:
I asked the same question when i recently ran into the term. Essentially an EBS but with the goal of tuning the box such that the low frequency roll-off of the plate-amp/HT reciever is higher than where the woofer unloads. (not doable id you have a nice DC coupled amp)
dave
Hmm, then none of the BIB 'subs' done to date can be LLT unless the amp/receiver can be set to roll off above 15-20 Hz......
Re: Re: Re: CSS SD12 Subduction
No problems with the 9-foot ceilings
Thanks for the help!
LLT? No one can explain it better than Steve Callas himself
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers/1820-llt-explained.html
I have a TC-2000 LLT sonosub also in the works:
- 24" x 48" sonotube = 355.65Liters raw, 12.56 cubic feet, effective volume 328 liters
- 6" X 27" flared port tuned ~ 14.5hz
this is RuneW's dual sono LLT's
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10104452&&#post10104452
TC-2000 😀
planet10 said:
No problems with the 9-foot ceilings
GM said:
Thanks for the help!
LLT? No one can explain it better than Steve Callas himself
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers/1820-llt-explained.html
I have a TC-2000 LLT sonosub also in the works:
- 24" x 48" sonotube = 355.65Liters raw, 12.56 cubic feet, effective volume 328 liters
- 6" X 27" flared port tuned ~ 14.5hz
this is RuneW's dual sono LLT's
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10104452&&#post10104452
TC-2000 😀
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Bib sub, cool.... How about using a good paper cone high efficient driver or pro sound driver instead though? Dave🙂
Here's one for a BIB sub.. Madisound has it on sale right now for $163.00 Fostex FW305 12''
Hybrid Pulp cone
8ohm
95 db sens 1w/1m
Freq resp 25hz-3.5khz
Fs 25hz
Qms 2.73
Qes 0.28
Qts 0.25
Vas 254 ltrs
Xmax 4.8 mm peak
nom power 125w
I wonder how this Fostex would model for a BIB sub?
Dave🙂
Hybrid Pulp cone
8ohm
95 db sens 1w/1m
Freq resp 25hz-3.5khz
Fs 25hz
Qms 2.73
Qes 0.28
Qts 0.25
Vas 254 ltrs
Xmax 4.8 mm peak
nom power 125w
I wonder how this Fostex would model for a BIB sub?
Dave🙂
Re: Re: Re: Re: CSS SD12 Subduction
You're welcome!
He's 'preaching to the choir' with me, I've been championing them for as long as I've been on the audio BBs/various forums for EBS with 16 Hz at minimum and for the most part I was either ignored or told it was a waste of time/$$/floor space even after the few folks that built them chimed in with their positive results. Typically the naysayers either had multiple driver IBs or preferred mid-bass 'slam' to a more extended/accurate in-room response, so no surprise there.
layertone said:
You're welcome!
He's 'preaching to the choir' with me, I've been championing them for as long as I've been on the audio BBs/various forums for EBS with 16 Hz at minimum and for the most part I was either ignored or told it was a waste of time/$$/floor space even after the few folks that built them chimed in with their positive results. Typically the naysayers either had multiple driver IBs or preferred mid-bass 'slam' to a more extended/accurate in-room response, so no surprise there.
Figures. Thinking positive, they might actually try it one day & find what they've been missing. Here's hoping anyway.
DaveCan said:
FWIW, Prosound drivers was all that was available back when I got serious about speaker building if low tunings was desired and they're still my preference for high SQ.........
Anyway, with a high Vas and 16 Hz Fp this one is almost 32 ft^3 using the formulas I posted, though it would make a 'killer' HT stage and/or speaker/equipment rack stand. Otherwise, either a higher Fp or reduced broadband acoustic efficiency is probably the way to go. Reducing it to an 84" folded line (20 Hz Fp) to fit in a corner and 'shrinking' its Vas to 6 ft^3 to get Vb down to ~21.2 ft^3:
L = 168"
zdriver = 36.437"
Sm = ~436.72"^2 (recommend ~17.562" W x 24.875" D)
a-b-c = 12.437"
Attachments
Monacor BIB
Hi Scott, Hi everybody!
After an intense winter season in France and few months without PC, back again!
Noticed that this thread has grown quite a lot since I left! Good!
And finally started to built my Monacor SPH-68X/AD BIB.
Here first pictures of my babies:
and some details of stuffing applied:
I have used some own Monacor stuffing material MDM-2 and MDM-3, is this suitable for an eventual pending pennant thing? Any rule for the measures considering cab's dimension?
Other pictures soon, with supra/super baffles on the way.....
Thanks a lot. Ciao Ciao.
Hi Scott, Hi everybody!
After an intense winter season in France and few months without PC, back again!
Noticed that this thread has grown quite a lot since I left! Good!
And finally started to built my Monacor SPH-68X/AD BIB.
Here first pictures of my babies:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
and some details of stuffing applied:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I have used some own Monacor stuffing material MDM-2 and MDM-3, is this suitable for an eventual pending pennant thing? Any rule for the measures considering cab's dimension?
Other pictures soon, with supra/super baffles on the way.....
Thanks a lot. Ciao Ciao.
Hi McFaBs!
Wondered if you got lost in cyber space for a while.
Hope you don't break your back while moving these "babies"
Heavy work, huh!
Peter
Wondered if you got lost in cyber space for a while.
Hope you don't break your back while moving these "babies"
Heavy work, huh!
Peter
peterbrorsson said:
Hi Peter, nice to hear you! No, I wasn't around the cyber space but "in quel di" Les2Alpes (nice french ski resort) for about 6month....
Yes, the cabs are pretty solid and heavy! and no drivers and super-baffle at the moment....
I'll work on a bit this afternoon.
I think I will ask you about your monacor_Vs_sonido experience pretty soon...
Ciao. Fab.
Well I had the worst working period in my life since January. Haven't had so much time for building. The panels are cut and ready for assembling but now I have to go to Sweden for three weeks
Though I put them in temporary ob baffle, they sounded promising although not ideal use for these.
Seems to have an even respons without nasty peaks, but we will see later!
Cheers!
Ski resort! Hmmm, must change work🙂
Though I put them in temporary ob baffle, they sounded promising although not ideal use for these.
Seems to have an even respons without nasty peaks, but we will see later!
Cheers!
Ski resort! Hmmm, must change work🙂
Hi Scott,
One question: do you reckon the stuffing material is enough for starting or should I add some more on the areas marked in this picture?
Thanks!😀
P.S. another picture of the "cobra" cable and its source...
Ciao. Fab.
One question: do you reckon the stuffing material is enough for starting or should I add some more on the areas marked in this picture?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Thanks!😀
Originally posted by peterbrorsson
Cheers!
Ski resort! Hmmm, must change work
Hi Peter,
working in a ski resort as a ski instructor is not so bad...but not really worthy in term of money.....
P.S. another picture of the "cobra" cable and its source...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Ciao. Fab.
Hi again! You adressed Scott regarding damping, but I will chime in here. I don't know about Scott's room but from his comments earlier, it seems that he was surprised of amount damping used in my bibs.
Here in CZ Rep most houses/apartments are built in concrete. Reverbant like a church and needs more damping according to me at least.
For sure you need damping behind driver. I've settled with 20mm BAF wadding behind driver and 20 cm down. Two sides are covered with a 2mm wool carpet from driver down to the bend. Bottom is covered with 25mm BAF.
Now this is very room dependent so start with a small amount and add if necessary. I made a lot of adjustments but have always gone back to above mentioned damping.
Good luck!
Here in CZ Rep most houses/apartments are built in concrete. Reverbant like a church and needs more damping according to me at least.
For sure you need damping behind driver. I've settled with 20mm BAF wadding behind driver and 20 cm down. Two sides are covered with a 2mm wool carpet from driver down to the bend. Bottom is covered with 25mm BAF.
Now this is very room dependent so start with a small amount and add if necessary. I made a lot of adjustments but have always gone back to above mentioned damping.
Good luck!
Indeed. Some behind the driver is crucial. Beyond that, a bit in the point and on the base of the cabinet, and then adjust to taste -the banner-like hanging material mooted on this thread & suggested by GM should be the most effective way of taming things should they need it.