I am just kidding. Coincidentally, along with two tired drivers needing love, the crossovers were pretty mint.
Mighty still needs me to measure girth of the coil before giving the final gogo, I said wilco, soon
Mighty still needs me to measure girth of the coil before giving the final gogo, I said wilco, soon
ZM, with there being so much ******** around about Tannoys... If you had a pair of Monitor Gold 12s, what sort of cabinet would you go for?
Going from memory here, I'd been thinking something Balmoral cabinet sized (100 and a bit litres?) but sealed and I'd run some some subs for the very low end as well
I was paying for Martin's software for sesvral years in a row, and never made single penny from that, matter of honesty
So, whomever is willing to try MLTL for his Tanns, just buzz on PM or e-mail
That's the reason I'm not willing to post them in public, but will always send what I have/know to anyone, under condition of no public posting them
MLTL is best type of enclosure I'm able to mess with, and I have some experience in doing that
Horn systems, I think they're even better in principle, but they must be much bigger and I have no Voodoo for that
Original Tann BR boxes - I'm leaving those to ppl not able to choose or buy or make better
So, whomever is willing to try MLTL for his Tanns, just buzz on PM or e-mail
That's the reason I'm not willing to post them in public, but will always send what I have/know to anyone, under condition of no public posting them
MLTL is best type of enclosure I'm able to mess with, and I have some experience in doing that
Horn systems, I think they're even better in principle, but they must be much bigger and I have no Voodoo for that
Original Tann BR boxes - I'm leaving those to ppl not able to choose or buy or make better
@Andy
Well Thats some kind of fine but crazy old school speaker rescue. You simply gotta love that kind of commitment and really good workmanship. Lets hope they finally can muster to play music more than good enough, according to your taste.
When building the passive crossovers and extremely fine tuning your speakers: Go fully active and use mini DSP HD to find your sound. Take your time. A long time, fully trust your own ears, and use REW measurements as a extremely valuable guiding light.
When that, in real life tune, is fully done: Build the passive crossovers!
🙂👍👍
Well Thats some kind of fine but crazy old school speaker rescue. You simply gotta love that kind of commitment and really good workmanship. Lets hope they finally can muster to play music more than good enough, according to your taste.
When building the passive crossovers and extremely fine tuning your speakers: Go fully active and use mini DSP HD to find your sound. Take your time. A long time, fully trust your own ears, and use REW measurements as a extremely valuable guiding light.
When that, in real life tune, is fully done: Build the passive crossovers!
🙂👍👍
brainfart, sorry
K3149 is Pepperpot driver, so you must use proper Pepperpot xover; CPA12 factually being made with Tulip equipped DC, different beast regarding xover electrically ...... but worth saying (repeating) that I'm finidng them (Pepperpots and Tulips) not so different in sound as one could expect from their physical differences
that's practically clean original Tannoy xover for them where difference between 12" and 15" iteration is "just" in value of series cap in HF section
10" Pepperpot is not demanding autoformer in HF section ( plain parallel choke is OK) while both 12" and 15" are demanding autoformer, where I'm finding "flat" position as preferable
meaning - autoformer is elevating tweet modulation by 20% voltage wise, which is approx. 1db5 to 1db6 increase in SPL, thus after necessary Eq (Newman compensation) tweet is hopefully equal with bass in SPL
in my Pepperpot xovers I'm using air choke autoformer, inductance value(s) pretty much taken from original Tann autoformer, but air choke version is to my ears superior to puny lumpy piece of EI iron, which is so adored by Tannoy puritans
those ( puritans) are also adoring original Tann boxes, amongst them Westminsters**, but I'm leaving them to their own misery ........ after all these decades I know some things about my own ears so I'm choosing by that, not by penny dreadful publications
as I'm ordering that choke from my winder GranPa, that's pretty much most expensive part in circuit - made with 2mm Dia wire, starting inductance of 2.55mH, then additional 20% of turns... ending in somewhat as 4.45mH, almost 1.5kg lump of copper
1.22mH for bass driver, wound with same 2mm Dia wire is half weight of big one
anyhow, buzz me for Pepperpot xover schm whenever you want; if I remember tomorrow ( now half of usual half of brain) will post it here
**me being old stubborn fart, having opinion about almost everything (even if not caring to express it even when I'm asked to) being sure that only 2 Tann boxes are of substantial value, construction and sound wise; both of them being Horn construction, and none of them called Westminster; Westminster is great advertisement piece, properly made to please eyes, tease wallets and elevate sense of self-importance and social status of owner ......... but substantially not achieving same levels in sound quality area
edit: have them, found them
editedit: actual xover pics - these were made for big cabs, so no particular care of miniaturization
Attachments
Last edited:
Thanks very much for sharing your experience and knowledge ZM.
All this crossover stuff seems so far above my pay grade.
I’m just screwing around trying to have new experiences, maybe figure out what I really like most and then if I’m lucky a way to build it before I get too old and grumpy to have patience.
Common theme for me so far is I know I like a point source for as much of what I can hear as is realistic (150-13k?) with bass helper.
I like a variety of wide band drivers and their simpler implementation.
Some music leaves me wanting more.
I know I like how the System 15 DMTii is doing what my widebands can’t.
I’m curious to hear for myself the difference (if any) between 12” and 15” Tannoy and the pepperpot vs tulip.
Hopefully using an active crossover to start will at least give me a fighting chance and I’ll learn more.
I did get a pair of Tannoy crossovers with my K3149, but they are not the originals intended for them.
My drivers were supposedly from a pair of SRM 12b. The seller only said they worked well with these crossovers.
My understanding is the crossovers are from a pair of SGM 10b speakers. They have the autoformer in the circuit. They are hand labeled “1073”.
I haven’t found much other specific information on them.
I did find some resources on the Tannoy group with some circuit diagrams for SRM and SGM 10 and 12 speakers.
Wrapping my head around the differences has been difficult to say the least.
All this crossover stuff seems so far above my pay grade.
I’m just screwing around trying to have new experiences, maybe figure out what I really like most and then if I’m lucky a way to build it before I get too old and grumpy to have patience.
Common theme for me so far is I know I like a point source for as much of what I can hear as is realistic (150-13k?) with bass helper.
I like a variety of wide band drivers and their simpler implementation.
Some music leaves me wanting more.
I know I like how the System 15 DMTii is doing what my widebands can’t.
I’m curious to hear for myself the difference (if any) between 12” and 15” Tannoy and the pepperpot vs tulip.
Hopefully using an active crossover to start will at least give me a fighting chance and I’ll learn more.
I did get a pair of Tannoy crossovers with my K3149, but they are not the originals intended for them.
My drivers were supposedly from a pair of SRM 12b. The seller only said they worked well with these crossovers.
My understanding is the crossovers are from a pair of SGM 10b speakers. They have the autoformer in the circuit. They are hand labeled “1073”.
I haven’t found much other specific information on them.
I did find some resources on the Tannoy group with some circuit diagrams for SRM and SGM 10 and 12 speakers.
Wrapping my head around the differences has been difficult to say the least.
not much headbanging needed - just decide whom you're going to trust
it's that simple
I'll try to get my Buddy 0Waf to explain his experience with xovers shown on these pictures in my last post
they're intended for his pair of 15" MLTL (in making) but he tried them on his pair of original 12" Tann boxes, instead of original xovers; it was needed to clip out 2pcs of 1uF MKC caps in front/start of tweet section, easily redone later
I'm lazy to research which exact model of his speakers is, so easier to get him here
it's that simple
I'll try to get my Buddy 0Waf to explain his experience with xovers shown on these pictures in my last post
they're intended for his pair of 15" MLTL (in making) but he tried them on his pair of original 12" Tann boxes, instead of original xovers; it was needed to clip out 2pcs of 1uF MKC caps in front/start of tweet section, easily redone later
I'm lazy to research which exact model of his speakers is, so easier to get him here
Last edited:
Hi there!
I am that 0Waf guy 😀
My speakers are Tann Devon with HPD315.
Monitor Gold 15 are in cardboard box eaiting for Zen Mods MLTL enclosures.
About xovers:
In short, I wasn't aware how my original xovers masked the sound. With Zen Mods xover it is like in that cliche sentence - a weil has been lifted!
Everything is there vut clearer and better. From bass to high freqs.
This xover should be first tweak for any Tannerd. There are a good chance that some Tanoyistas could abort a build 8f new boxes. At oeast for a while because, ya know...it never ends in this passion of ours. 😀
I am that 0Waf guy 😀
My speakers are Tann Devon with HPD315.
Monitor Gold 15 are in cardboard box eaiting for Zen Mods MLTL enclosures.
About xovers:
In short, I wasn't aware how my original xovers masked the sound. With Zen Mods xover it is like in that cliche sentence - a weil has been lifted!
Everything is there vut clearer and better. From bass to high freqs.
This xover should be first tweak for any Tannerd. There are a good chance that some Tanoyistas could abort a build 8f new boxes. At oeast for a while because, ya know...it never ends in this passion of ours. 😀
tnx to 0Waf
even he's actually commanding a Behemot of 3000 Tons at 100km/h, he found some time (well, tnx to some automation surrounding him) to post here
safe rails Zero!!
even he's actually commanding a Behemot of 3000 Tons at 100km/h, he found some time (well, tnx to some automation surrounding him) to post here
safe rails Zero!!
you already got instruction for that, but being
you forgot what I wrotein final boxes (or before that) remove those nasty connectors ( good for quicky pro use, but even for that they're evidently tired)
redo all solder points, try to make wiring between components shortest possible, use 1.6mm solid core for that
observe pics of xovers I posted above, analyze and apply what you observed
if bass choke wire is 1.6mm Dia it is good enough; if you want better, find a way to get it with 2mm Dia wire
rest of part is decent; if you have some doubts in yellow Tann cap, replace it with your preferred poison brand
edit - any news in work on drivers?
Thank you sharing all this.
Very interesting.
And i didn't say but Andynor you did a very nice work on these drivers.
Chromenuts,
If you go dsp there is a number of thing which can be done which are not easy to implement in passive ( delay). It is easier and faster to implement and for comparison too imho.
That won't say it will sound better than a well executed passive though.
Very interesting.
And i didn't say but Andynor you did a very nice work on these drivers.
Chromenuts,
If you go dsp there is a number of thing which can be done which are not easy to implement in passive ( delay). It is easier and faster to implement and for comparison too imho.
That won't say it will sound better than a well executed passive though.
Last edited: