I weighed 100g of stuffing for each speaker. The lower 3rd is not stuffed at all.
I'll test the phase, but was very careful when wiring up.
I've had more of a listen now and played with a frequency generator. Using this generator I was able to pin point some vibrations that were happening at certain frequencies. Basically the driver units weren't fully tightened up (originally I was being gently to avoid distorting the units) with them fully tightened they no longer vibrate. I believe I was mistaking this vibration for the "painful" brightness I mentioned above.
I'm still interested in adding a baffle step compensation circuit and have begun searching for 1.0mH Inductor and a 3.9Ohm resistor, only to be met by a multitude of options with huge variety in cost and appearance.
CPC Farnell seems to be a decent source for the components, but which should I get?
https://cpc.farnell.com/c/electroni...nductors/fixed-value-inductors?inductance=1mh
https://cpc.farnell.com/c/electroni...alue/through-hole-resistors?resistance=3.9ohm
I'm still interested in adding a baffle step compensation circuit and have begun searching for 1.0mH Inductor and a 3.9Ohm resistor, only to be met by a multitude of options with huge variety in cost and appearance.
CPC Farnell seems to be a decent source for the components, but which should I get?
https://cpc.farnell.com/c/electroni...nductors/fixed-value-inductors?inductance=1mh
https://cpc.farnell.com/c/electroni...alue/through-hole-resistors?resistance=3.9ohm
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the first one of each page should do just fine.
The Faitals are known to be a bit high treble.
If your amp doesn't have treble and bass knobs, better add the BSC filter.
I'd get the 3,9 Ohms pair, and maybe a 5 or 6 Ohms pair as well... just to test.
Also, putting the columns against the back wall will improve the bass a little, but lose some imaging.
It's all a question of balance
The Faitals are known to be a bit high treble.
If your amp doesn't have treble and bass knobs, better add the BSC filter.
I'd get the 3,9 Ohms pair, and maybe a 5 or 6 Ohms pair as well... just to test.
Also, putting the columns against the back wall will improve the bass a little, but lose some imaging.
It's all a question of balance
I've cut all the enclosure parts and been on hold for some time to reconsider the speakers
choice . Beeing my very first build i came up to the conclusion i'am better use speakers that offers me more feedback and source of information than the Faital's. Thinking about stuffing experiences, ease of set up and overall results.
Wich 4" speakers do you guys suggest me to go for?
choice . Beeing my very first build i came up to the conclusion i'am better use speakers that offers me more feedback and source of information than the Faital's. Thinking about stuffing experiences, ease of set up and overall results.
Wich 4" speakers do you guys suggest me to go for?
I've done something stupid.
It started when I found this thread. I read through it and saw how the Tabaq was well received, easy to build, cheap and possible to build with many different drivers.
It was interesting to see how the 4" drivers changed the game.
So I started looking at building some myself, but my lack of proper tools here means I would not be able to cut them easily with good enough precision. I started looking into the details
This is what I ended up with
See included image to see what I came up with
The colors are to help me make sure I've added parts for all 5 speakers.
You see, this will allow us to build a 5.0 system of Tabaqs from a single sheet of mdf/plywood.
I've gotten a quote for having them CNC-cut at a woodshop 2500sek or ~260USD for the first run where they need to do some CAD work.
So, is my idea useless or good? will I break any rules if I make these and share the CAD file used for cutting it?
It started when I found this thread. I read through it and saw how the Tabaq was well received, easy to build, cheap and possible to build with many different drivers.
It was interesting to see how the 4" drivers changed the game.
So I started looking at building some myself, but my lack of proper tools here means I would not be able to cut them easily with good enough precision. I started looking into the details
This is what I ended up with
- Original design, adapted for 4" driver. 8 inches from the top
- Faital Pro 4FE32 8Ohm driver
- Connectors on the back: https://www.kjell.com/se/produkter/...e/uttag/infalld-hogtalarterminal-2-pol-p37258 set right behind the driver.
- 64grams of stuffing
- Tabaq box with centered driver.
See included image to see what I came up with
The colors are to help me make sure I've added parts for all 5 speakers.
You see, this will allow us to build a 5.0 system of Tabaqs from a single sheet of mdf/plywood.
I've gotten a quote for having them CNC-cut at a woodshop 2500sek or ~260USD for the first run where they need to do some CAD work.
So, is my idea useless or good? will I break any rules if I make these and share the CAD file used for cutting it?
Attachments
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Hey blompa, not sure why you say this?
Well done for getting 5 speakers cut out of a single mdf/plywood sheet. You will not break any rules for sharing your CAD files, but you will need Bjorn’s permission if you intend to manufacture these speakers and sell them. Go ahead and build them – we are waiting for your listening impressions.
Yes, correct.
The design is for personal use.
However, I would be more than happy to discuss commercial terms.
Regards
Bjørn
The design is for personal use.
However, I would be more than happy to discuss commercial terms.
Regards
Bjørn
Hello Guys,
I have read almost all pages of this thread and decided to try build tabaq by myself. All i can say its hard when You do all that stuff just in flat🙂
Due all of this i end up with speakers like in pictures🙂
Now i wonder how i finish them and i think i will paint all parts on black besides side walls on which i put some lacquer.
Right now i put about 75g stuffing in each speaker, its correct?
Thanks all for that thread, its a ocean of knowledge🙂
The last thing, i cant really say something about sound because i listen to them for about 10mins😉 right now all i can say they are pretty cool for a 4" speaker😉
I have read almost all pages of this thread and decided to try build tabaq by myself. All i can say its hard when You do all that stuff just in flat🙂
Due all of this i end up with speakers like in pictures🙂
Now i wonder how i finish them and i think i will paint all parts on black besides side walls on which i put some lacquer.
Right now i put about 75g stuffing in each speaker, its correct?
Thanks all for that thread, its a ocean of knowledge🙂
The last thing, i cant really say something about sound because i listen to them for about 10mins😉 right now all i can say they are pretty cool for a 4" speaker😉
Attachments
Well done Saided - they look great from here, even if you don't have a workshop. We are interested in how they sound (and how do they compare to your other speakers), and what drivers did you use?
Hi Saided
Really nice speakers, you did a great work without a shop.
About finishing, I wouldn't paint it. Your plywood looks nice (birch?) and black paint will show every small defect. You can use some oil, the best is tung, very easy to use.
Victor
Really nice speakers, you did a great work without a shop.
About finishing, I wouldn't paint it. Your plywood looks nice (birch?) and black paint will show every small defect. You can use some oil, the best is tung, very easy to use.
Victor
A while ago I built a pair of TABAQs with the FaitalPro 3FE22 driver, using a slightly modified alignment from Bjorn, see attached.
Thread is over here:
TABAQ with FaitalPro 3FE22
I will post some more photos over there since I finally finished them off.
However, I am wondering if the same enclosure will work with the 3FE25 driver, which is the ferrite magnet version of the driver. Specs are very similar, but the Qts is 0.7 for the 25, compared to 0.47 for the 22.
I would like to try the 25 for a number of reasons, one being cost, and another being that it seems to have slightly better low end response.
Bjorn, or anyone else, would switching to a 3FE25 from a 3FE22 make any difference? What, if anything, would I need to change on the enclosure?
Thread is over here:
TABAQ with FaitalPro 3FE22
I will post some more photos over there since I finally finished them off.
However, I am wondering if the same enclosure will work with the 3FE25 driver, which is the ferrite magnet version of the driver. Specs are very similar, but the Qts is 0.7 for the 25, compared to 0.47 for the 22.
I would like to try the 25 for a number of reasons, one being cost, and another being that it seems to have slightly better low end response.
Bjorn, or anyone else, would switching to a 3FE25 from a 3FE22 make any difference? What, if anything, would I need to change on the enclosure?
Beautiful built congrats, if me I will sand very well the plywood as it is then 3/4 coat of polyurethane transparent, after every coat 600 grid sand paper lightly, for every coat at least 24h for get dry then sand then paint again, if you like a more dark effect before the polyurethane you can use coffee for stain the plywood....enjoy the music......🙂
Well. I have neither need nor really space for them. I also lack a surround receiver to run all 5. 😛 That's why it is a bit stupid.
Thanks. Good to know. I have no plans regarding commercialization. If I go through with this I will try to share the cnc cutting plans if they are given to me.
Meny thanks😉
Just need a bit more time listening to them to be able to compare them with other diy speakers of mine and describe how they sound.
What about driver, i used the tang band w4-1052sd.
Thanks a lot to all of You for such a kind words😉
Nice one , Saided.
Did you add a notch filter to those W4 drivers?
I built with that driver and it needed a notch, and after that, they sounded really nice.
Did you add a notch filter to those W4 drivers?
I built with that driver and it needed a notch, and after that, they sounded really nice.
Hi perceval,
No, i dont add any notch. I will think about it maybe later. Right now i have amplifier with treble regulation so if there will be a need i use it in first place.
Confused about which plans to use
Dear Bjorn and other fellow builders,
I have built a few tube amps and am now venturing into speaker building. I can do decent woodwork (or let's say, I will try...). I have read all the thread over 2-3 weeks but I'm somewhat confused about what plans are the correct ones. I have bought two pairs of drivers :
Sorry if this sound a bit newbie but I'd rather not build it twice...
Thanks all for your dedication !
Charles
Dear Bjorn and other fellow builders,
I have built a few tube amps and am now venturing into speaker building. I can do decent woodwork (or let's say, I will try...). I have read all the thread over 2-3 weeks but I'm somewhat confused about what plans are the correct ones. I have bought two pairs of drivers :
- Peerless PLS-P830987
- Faital Pro 4 FE 32 A
- page 2 of the plan for the 4" ?
- page 4 of the plan for the 3" ?
Sorry if this sound a bit newbie but I'd rather not build it twice...
Thanks all for your dedication !
Charles
Hi Charles - welcome here. If I understand the difference between the original TABAQ and the updated TABAQ plans, the only difference is in the length of the port. So,
For 3” drivers (i.e. P830987) => use the updated plan with the 9,7 cm port
For 4” drivers (i.e. 4FE32) => use the original plan with the 13 cm port
In both cases you can mount the drivers 8” (20,3 cm) from the top.
If you build two sets of TABAQs – one set with the P830987 drivers, and one set with 4FE32 drivers, I would be very interested in your listening impressions comparing the two. I’ve built TABAQs with P830987 drivers for a family member, and I was really very impressed. Now I am considering building a set with 4FE32 drivers for myself, simply because I can source the 4FE32 drivers locally at a very good price.
I see you have built tube amps, so just be aware that the TABAQs with P830987 drivers are not very efficient and will require a 25W amp.
For 3” drivers (i.e. P830987) => use the updated plan with the 9,7 cm port
For 4” drivers (i.e. 4FE32) => use the original plan with the 13 cm port
In both cases you can mount the drivers 8” (20,3 cm) from the top.
If you build two sets of TABAQs – one set with the P830987 drivers, and one set with 4FE32 drivers, I would be very interested in your listening impressions comparing the two. I’ve built TABAQs with P830987 drivers for a family member, and I was really very impressed. Now I am considering building a set with 4FE32 drivers for myself, simply because I can source the 4FE32 drivers locally at a very good price.
I see you have built tube amps, so just be aware that the TABAQs with P830987 drivers are not very efficient and will require a 25W amp.
Attachments
Thanks Twocents for your help. I have two tube amps so far, the engineer-amp of Pete Millet (~20W PP) and the SSE of Tubelab (~10W, still on the bench). The TABAQ with P830987 will be driven by a small class-D amp, for my son in studies. Rather not leave him a tube amp... he has to earn it first 🙂
I will build the two sets of speakers and do some comparisons. What I realize is the Peerless driver can be mounted on the front and still look decent. The Faital might look ugly. I need to study how to recess these when I receive them.
I will build the two sets of speakers and do some comparisons. What I realize is the Peerless driver can be mounted on the front and still look decent. The Faital might look ugly. I need to study how to recess these when I receive them.
Oh my goodness – your son might start neglecting his studies and just listen to music all day. 😀
I’m looking forward to see your builds, listening impressions and how you mount the Faitals.