Jjansniew good question regarding the g-tower.
My wife and I differ on what is considered working art, I like the look of the voigt pipes and I would happily have them in my home.
Scott Joplin, many more options, thank you. The bookshelves are beautiful especially the black and gray.
My wife and I differ on what is considered working art, I like the look of the voigt pipes and I would happily have them in my home.
Scott Joplin, many more options, thank you. The bookshelves are beautiful especially the black and gray.
Would you get a "G-tower" by inverting an existing Met design, putting the driver up top (versus, say, a Zd of 1/2 the line-length) and moving the mass-load port from the S1 end to the front-firing position shown?
1st, the Zd in any well designed quarter wave pipe is important to suppress some unwanted pipe harmonics.
A voigt tapers the wrong way to make into a g-tower. It is an unfolded tapered TL. terminus smaller than line start.
Here an example if a design Paul K did:
dave
Attachments
Thanks Dave, it would be interesting mounting them without interfering with the port/slot at the bottom. Likely metal work. Does it provide useable bass in large rooms. Useable bass means a low note on a bass guitar, or realistically close.
Given info on the above (I’ll dig in as well).
I am between the FH XL, and the super Pensil; however, others are welcome. Am I alone, or are the, kit, options limited? I don’t want to jump into something only to learn about a whole new series of diy builds.
What is out; over 120cm tall, audio art (darn!), front firing horns.
Given info on the above (I’ll dig in as well).
I am between the FH XL, and the super Pensil; however, others are welcome. Am I alone, or are the, kit, options limited? I don’t want to jump into something only to learn about a whole new series of diy builds.
What is out; over 120cm tall, audio art (darn!), front firing horns.
The design is certainly capable of reaching the bass required with an appropriate driver.
The limited height likely means a mass-loaded box to shorten it.
dave
The limited height likely means a mass-loaded box to shorten it.
dave
Thank you Dave. I agree that the height limit is highly restrictive. I may steal an open bedroom for a listening room, which I will control.
Please do not take my comment regarding “limited options”, negatively, there are many many options. Most of them were self excluded.
Barring any new options I will run with the super pensil, and buy the FH XL plans.
Please do not take my comment regarding “limited options”, negatively, there are many many options. Most of them were self excluded.
Barring any new options I will run with the super pensil, and buy the FH XL plans.
Hello all,
Does anyone have a cut sheet, including the bracing for the super Pensil? It’s either buy all of the tools or have a flat prepared by a local craftsmen. Pros and cons for both.
Thanks much.
Does anyone have a cut sheet, including the bracing for the super Pensil? It’s either buy all of the tools or have a flat prepared by a local craftsmen. Pros and cons for both.
Thanks much.
Hello all,
I may have goofed, there are many Pensil plans and I selected the one with a 1054 height, only to find another SuperPensil with an external height of 940 (this is the one KJFaudio sells)? All but the drivers dimensions are different. Both use the 12p.
I gather the 940 version is the correct plan vs the 1054. Only facts are KJFaudio uses the 940 plan. I should have asked this question once it surfaced, and before I started cutting wood.
The fix isn’t trivial, however, it is doable in a few hours. Probably with better results the second time around.
I may have goofed, there are many Pensil plans and I selected the one with a 1054 height, only to find another SuperPensil with an external height of 940 (this is the one KJFaudio sells)? All but the drivers dimensions are different. Both use the 12p.
I gather the 940 version is the correct plan vs the 1054. Only facts are KJFaudio uses the 940 plan. I should have asked this question once it surfaced, and before I started cutting wood.
The fix isn’t trivial, however, it is doable in a few hours. Probably with better results the second time around.
Dave, I keep visiting this picture, what a beautiful setup. A place for everything and everything in its place.
This is the latest plan: https://www.frugal-phile.com/boxlib/pensils/PensilsA122p-191012.pdf
The higher one is an older plan, for the older version of the 12P if i'm right.
The higher one is an older plan, for the older version of the 12P if i'm right.
Hmmm, I was going to vomit until I realized; I like this stuff! 75usd and I am back in business. Not to mention I can fix all of my “learning opportunities”.
Hello all,
I may have goofed, there are many Pensil plans and I selected the one with a 1054 height, only to find another SuperPensil with an external height of 940 (this is the one KJFaudio sells)? All but the drivers dimensions are different. Both use the 12p.
Internal height is 902mm. Date is Oct 2012.
Most Pensils are that height (with 3/4” material) The old SuperPensil12 for the metal cone driver is 1054.
Scott may well have some suggestions for making the old box work with the new driver.
dave
Back in business. Everything cut to size. Now it’s time for the dreaded brace; before I begin, I often hear that the bracing is insufficient (usually material), and/or construction is incorrect.
The removed area is an easy math exercise, my question is, how large a circle is considered reasonable for structural and sonic integrity.
The removed area is an easy math exercise, my question is, how large a circle is considered reasonable for structural and sonic integrity.
Have a look at some of the holey brace visualizations in my free plansets.
I like round holes, one needs to leave sufficent meat around the voids to be structurallt strong. Ensure that the brace between the magnet and the back panel is solid so that one gets maximm energy transfer from the front of the box to the back, more than doubling the amount of panel the drivers reactive force is being directly loaded into.
In the Pensils that are deeper than wide, additional side-to-side bracing is helpful. I do not put braces parallel to the baffle in the proximity of the back of the driver.
dave
I like round holes, one needs to leave sufficent meat around the voids to be structurallt strong. Ensure that the brace between the magnet and the back panel is solid so that one gets maximm energy transfer from the front of the box to the back, more than doubling the amount of panel the drivers reactive force is being directly loaded into.
In the Pensils that are deeper than wide, additional side-to-side bracing is helpful. I do not put braces parallel to the baffle in the proximity of the back of the driver.
dave
Got it I’ll take a look, always open to new ideas.
The main brace is top to bottom, front to back; Is it okay to run parallel to the baffle at the bottom 10 to 15 inches?
The main brace is top to bottom, front to back; Is it okay to run parallel to the baffle at the bottom 10 to 15 inches?
You may also look at decoupling the driver from the box. There are a number of threads active here about the benefits and ways to do it.
Perhaps so, but I don't see why it wouldn't be a universal benefit sonically, granted it's not an easy thing to do.
We feel it would be the antithesis of many of the design decisions and as such degrade performance.
dave
dave
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