Sonic Impact 5066 Parts List & Modifications

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#161
wiring and more

Hi all,

More about wiring!! I just finished modding my SI t-amp as according to panomaniacs and audio1st’s stealth mod, using 2,2uf Solen MKP for input. I also replaced c10 with a 330uf Panasonic FC (I didn’t find anything of greater value that fitted in), and a Panasonic TSHA 10000uF outboard. Question being, as seen from the photo (I hope) the big cap is mounted in parallel with the DC input. Is that correct, or does have to be in series? I also added a Fuse (fast 2A) before the cap, as my external PSU does not have a fuse on the output side. Any problems there? 😕

The modded amp is placed in a case from an external CD-RW. The back trunk is still empty, planning to put a PSU there next.:djinn:

Anyone looking for air core inductors for the t-amp might find this link useful:
http://www.autocostruire.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=32&products_id=256

Thanks from a newbie to all the people here that makes modding so easy and enjoyable.
BTW, I am fascinated by the sound of this modded t-amp. :violin:
 

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#163
Wow. I guess your problem was compounded by the large capacitor you put in there. Those leads do look a bit beefy.

I have 2 SI boards side-by-side, so putting the big toroids in there may be a problem, if they're sticking out like that. Might have to look for smaller ones.
 
#164
The Jameco inductors are big, just like the Millers. Hard fit for the little Sonic board. I have not found any ready made toroids any smaller than that - had to roll my own. Not too hard to do, you just have to find the right cores.
 
#165
I know we discussed cases on about page 9, but wasn't there someone that was making nice looking cases here on the forums. I remember when one of the first mods to the T-Amp was posted there were some pics of a nice case.
Maybe someone will remeber who it was.

Nigel
 
#168
Re: wiring and more

berthej said:
Question being, as seen from the photo (I hope) the big cap is mounted in parallel with the DC input. Is that correct

Looks good to me!

I also added a Fuse (fast 2A) before the cap, as my external PSU does not have a fuse on the output side. Any problems there?

Why not! Wont do any harm!
Click to expand...
 
#170
panomaniac said:
I looked at the photo again. I'm sure that it is wired wrong. You can see the input wires coming from the RCAs to the caps, then to the pot, then to the board. That puts the pot on the wrong side.

However, I can't tell from the photo (need to look harder) if the stock input caps were removed. If there were not, then no DC offset - but --- no benefit from the new caps.
Click to expand...

Pano, you were right. It was wired wrongly. However, because it was not me who modified the t-amp I had no clue about the problem. Friend of mine did not realize that the proper wiring order was of great importance. Good that he did not blow his drivers...🙂 In any way, he did a great job.

The only concern I have is that the cap may not be as close to the chip as all you guys recommend. Am I wrong...?

again, thanks to you all. Now I'm starting to wonder how better would charlize or Amp6 sound...🙂
 

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#171
Photo review

Irss,
You have left lots of room for improvement. First you need to insolate the RCA jacks from the chassis if they are not. Then remove the wiring connected to them. Form twisted pairs to connect them directly to the volume control, keeping L/R wires separate. This includes a separate ground connection for each channel. Disconnect the ground jumper on the volume control and run a separate ground for the other channel back to the same ground attachment point on the circuit board. This will improve your high frequency channel separation quite a bit.
If the heat sink is not grounded it should be so it doesn’t radiate noise.
Roger
 
#174
Very nice work, Ken! Classy! We can tell you know what you're doing.

What I really want to know is - where did the knob come from? It's great, haven't seen it before.

BTW, I have a Corian front for one of my amps. But it turned out to be too thick for the volume shaft to go thru and still mount the knob.
 
#175
Thanks guys!

What I really want to know is - where did the knob come from? It's great, haven't seen it before.
Click to expand...

The knob is from apexjr.com - Aluminum Knob (Round) 1 3/8" dia 3/4" tall 1/4" hole w/set screw $4.50ea

http://www.apexjr.com/knobs.htm

I have a Corian front for one of my amps. But it turned out to be too thick for the volume shaft to go thru and still mount the knob.
Click to expand...

I had the same problem too. The Corian is 1/2" and I had to use 1-1/2" forstner bit to mount the Noble pot.

-Ken
 
#177
Puffin said:
What is the largest value cap that could be fitted to replace the power line (330uf 25v) cap. Some suggest 470uf. I have seen 1000uf suggested. I have some 2200uf Nichicons. Woudl these be too big ?
Click to expand...


Hi Puffin, this one's a matter of opinion but you need a Low ESR cap here like a panasonic FM/FC etc.
I've tried 680uf and 1000uf in small packages (8mm dia.) and I eventually decided to put two 680's directly onto the pins instead to keep the trace as short as possible. (Vinnie does this on his Clari). Next back from that is a 10,000 uf stiffener very close to the board.
A really good place to put two is on the bottom across the 0.1uf's, see this thread for some good ideas.....
Extreme modding!

Later

Lee
 
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