Here's my test rig I made does it look correct I tried my best to build off the info in type 3.
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I think it's right. The 1157 is in a different location but should work.
There is virtually no way tat you can do any damage connecting this to the amp so connect it and see if you get the ±15v.
Be sure to connect the positive and negative rectifiers to the right points.
This may seem like a pain right now but after you do it a couple of times, it will take about 2 minutes to set up and it's worth the reduced risk to the outputs and drive stage.
If the primary and secondary grounds aren't directly connected, you may need to place the black probe on the secondary ground.
There is virtually no way tat you can do any damage connecting this to the amp so connect it and see if you get the ±15v.
Be sure to connect the positive and negative rectifiers to the right points.
This may seem like a pain right now but after you do it a couple of times, it will take about 2 minutes to set up and it's worth the reduced risk to the outputs and drive stage.
If the primary and secondary grounds aren't directly connected, you may need to place the black probe on the secondary ground.
Yea its a little confusing at times but i want to learn this stuff so bad sometimes i get to a head of myself in my head lol.
However I am a little unsure were the positive and negative rectifier outs go on the board and dont want to do it backwards
The original rectifiers have same facing diodes so I'm alil thrown can you tell me were my positive and negative would go
Pics below
On the test rig the red wire from diode is positive out and black wire off other diode is negative output? That's what I'm getting in my head.
However I am a little unsure were the positive and negative rectifier outs go on the board and dont want to do it backwards
The original rectifiers have same facing diodes so I'm alil thrown can you tell me were my positive and negative would go
Pics below
On the test rig the red wire from diode is positive out and black wire off other diode is negative output? That's what I'm getting in my head.
Attachments
The positive rectifier from the LV jig will go to the pointy end of one arrow. The negative output from the jig will go to the other outer terminal.
Confirm that the positive output connects to the rail cap positive terminals and the negative output connects to the negative side of the rest of the rail caps.
Confirm that the positive output connects to the rail cap positive terminals and the negative output connects to the negative side of the rest of the rail caps.
Okay I figured it out I do have a question am I only using the LV Supply on half the rail caps do I need to jump over and power the left side rail caps.
If I'm on the primary in the pic below where is the secondary ground?
Sry for so many questions
If I'm on the primary in the pic below where is the secondary ground?
Sry for so many questions
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Here's the waveforms in pics below.
It appears I have rail-rail
How do I see the frequency my scope dosent tell me?
SCOPE SETTINGS ARE 10V 10US
It appears I have rail-rail
How do I see the frequency my scope dosent tell me?
SCOPE SETTINGS ARE 10V 10US
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Sometimes, the controls get dirty. They're (from what I read), not the typical control that wipes to self clean. The wiping wears controls out. The Tek controls are cam driven that pushes a contact down with no wiping. That makes them last nearly forever but if a piece of trash gets in them, it has to be removed.
The scope probes are 4/$20 on ebay. They're good enough for amp work.
The reason I wanted to know if your scope had both channels was to use it in differential mode to check the high-side drive. It's likely OK but if you could check it, why not.
The scope probes are 4/$20 on ebay. They're good enough for amp work.
The reason I wanted to know if your scope had both channels was to use it in differential mode to check the high-side drive. It's likely OK but if you could check it, why not.
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