You can either remove the outputs or disable the DC offset protection (transistor often fails). To disable the DC offset protection, remove D206 or Q226.
Ok took out Q226 and it powered up and relays engage everything felt cold to the touch but I didn't leave it on long
There's no dc across speaker terminals
No rail-rail oscillation either
Does r21 need to go back in?
No rail-rail oscillation either
Does r21 need to go back in?
Will there be oscillation without the rectifiers in
Or should this be where I use the 9v on the negative rail caps
Or should this be where I use the 9v on the negative rail caps
No Perry I haven't I need to order parts for the jig the mr852 and 1157 bulbs
Can i use the 9v battery for testing
Can i use the 9v battery for testing
I might have to consider making a different power supply other then using a transformer from this amp they are all covered in silicon very well
The parts aren't critical. The bulbs are current limiters and give a visible indication when current increases. They don't have to be used but are better than no limiting.
The diodes aren't critical. You can use any high-speed diode you have. You can even use one half of the amp's rectifier diodes. I generally recommend against this, especially when the amps use hard to get rectifiers.
You can almost always find space to get under a transformer (with silicone, not those like rockford that use epoxy). Use a plastic probe to work under an area that has the best clearance. After you get through, you can use either the plastic probe or even something like fishing line to cut through a bit more silicone to get the small windings through.
Autozone or similar will have the lamps to save on shipping.
The diodes aren't critical. You can use any high-speed diode you have. You can even use one half of the amp's rectifier diodes. I generally recommend against this, especially when the amps use hard to get rectifiers.
You can almost always find space to get under a transformer (with silicone, not those like rockford that use epoxy). Use a plastic probe to work under an area that has the best clearance. After you get through, you can use either the plastic probe or even something like fishing line to cut through a bit more silicone to get the small windings through.
Autozone or similar will have the lamps to save on shipping.
Hi Perry so I have wrapped a 22 gauge length of wire around one of the transformers i had 5 wraps it read 12vdc so I put another wrap which now makes 6 wraps and it's essentially the same it reads 12.7vdc and I have no more room for more wraps it was very difficult to get it 6 around it any suggestions
Pic below.
Pic below.
Attachments
That's the primary CT. Confirm by measuring resistance to the B+ terminal.
You will still need a rectifier and cap. If you just use a rectifier and connect to the output of the original rectifier (originals out of the circuit), the rail caps will be the cap that you need.
You will need to back the turns down from 11 to stay around 15v DC.
You will still need a rectifier and cap. If you just use a rectifier and connect to the output of the original rectifier (originals out of the circuit), the rail caps will be the cap that you need.
You will need to back the turns down from 11 to stay around 15v DC.