Single sheet TH challenge

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#281
Post #278

Hi Chaps,

I think the drawing that you are referring to is my attempt to make an ACAD drawing from jbells notes and pictures. There is also another unexpected change in cross-section right before S3. I would not change a thing from what jbell has developed here, his measured results are substantially better than what you would expect from the Hornresp model, and he really likes it, which is good enough for me. I also made a mm dimensioned drawing that is posted in Post #82.

If you want to be adventurous, how about building two as drawn, and two modified ones, and comparing them? You could also leave one side attached with screws and a seal strip and experiment with the dividers in question.

Regards,
 
#282
Thanks!
As i said, i do believe that it works perfectly in this way. I just thought about it, when i took a closer look at the sketch, but now i know it wasn't me who had overlooked something.

I don't think i'm the one to be adventurous though, as this is my first attemp into speaker building 🙂 .. I am curious about how it would perform with the other layout, but my wood have allready been cut out, so i think i just stick to the original. I'm pretty confident that it will make me happy
 
#283
I've made my first pair and used them for a gig on Saturday. They were instead of 4 t48 subs. Not a straight comparison though because I was also using a different (smaller) amp to run them. Very impressed. Obviously not as much output as 4 t48 but since they Are only slightly bigger than half size it's pretty good! Will def be building lots more. And could fit 6 in the space 🙂
 
#284
jbell said:
Making them wider doesn't make them play lower. If you want lower, more cabinets accomplishes that. (to a point)

This means that for small gigs, bringing 2 or more is still advised even if you don't need the spl.

If you really want a lower design, and you don't care about fitting it out of a single sheet, I can mod it to make it play a little lower.. Keep in mind loud and low are the 2 players on the see-saw. As one goes up, the other goes down.

Here's the idea of what would be needed to make it actually go lower. (warning -- there is NO hornresp or other thought put into this, it's just a depiction of what would be needed to make the horn path longer, and therefore play lower)
Click to expand...

Hi JBell

Could you please advise on details to make your ss15 TH play lower. I only require output up to 100hz or so. Or must I consider a completely different design. The 3015LF will still be used.

Thank you.

Crank
 
#285
dave:
A pair of ss15 taking the place of a quad of t48? Knowing there is 'no replacement for displacement' that's gutsy, and satisfying I guess.

Yea the ss15 is a cracker of a little cabinet, it's really a great size/great weight/great tone. I know I have enjoyed installing them. Please post pics of your gig if available, and as you add to your fleet, if you have 2/4/6/8 impressions or information that others may find helpful, please share.

crank -- I don't know what you mean by lower... please be specific. what music are you playing? If you have spectral charts showing EXACTLY what frequencies you need, and if you can share your setup amps/high pass and indoor vs outdoor that would be helpful.

As a general rule these will do everything except d&b and dub. You just need to run them in pairs or more to flatten out the response down to 40hz.
 
#286
Hi

I'm looking for subs to use in a home setup. Living room of approx. 9 x 5 metres. By lower I mean from 20 - 100 hz range. The main speakers are Tannoy DC K3808 drivers in large ported cabinets - but these will be rolled off so the TH can handle low bass.

I may be better off with a simple ported sub, but I'm really taken by the design of tapped horns.

Crank
 
#290
Crankshaft said:
Hi

I'm looking for subs to use in a home setup. Living room of approx. 9 x 5 metres. By lower I mean from 20 - 100 hz range. The main speakers are Tannoy DC K3808 drivers in large ported cabinets - but these will be rolled off so the TH can handle low bass.

I may be better off with a simple ported sub, but I'm really taken by the design of tapped horns.

Crank
Click to expand...

Hi Crank,

There are alternative use for a PA driver like the Eminence 3015LF, IMO more suitable for home: No need for signal-delaying the Main speakers or needing an additional EQ:

b🙂
 

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#295
Crankshaft said:
Thanks to everyone, I've seen the LAB12 before - awesome TH. The Exodus Anarchy looks great as a compact design.

Here is South Africa, getting hold of those drivers can be bit of a mission.
Click to expand...

Let me know what drivers you can get. There are other options. If you can get accurate thiele-small parameters, they can be run through the model fairly quickly to see if they'll work.

I'm also working on a slightly larger tapped horn than the Insubnia. It is in the final stages of development, I expect to make sawdust very soon on this one. This one is "adjustable" to more properly load a range of drivers.

Nope - mine's not a PA sub, but it is a "single-sheet" build at widths of up to 11 3/4" internally, and should have an f3 near 26 Hz. 😀
 
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#297
jbell said:
dave:
A pair of ss15 taking the place of a quad of t48? Knowing there is 'no replacement for displacement' that's gutsy, and satisfying I guess.

Yea the ss15 is a cracker of a little cabinet, it's really a great size/great weight/great tone. I know I have enjoyed installing them. Please post pics of your gig if available, and as you add to your fleet, if you have 2/4/6/8 impressions or information that others may find helpful, please share.
.
Click to expand...

I surely will do. Did another gig last night. Still impressed, but I've got all weekend metal screamo show from tonight so I'm gonna have to drag the 4t48 back in to handle it. 🙁 wish I had 6 ss15s built!
 
#298
I just saw your drawing of the THAM15 in Xco1. It explans alot. Could you do a Xco1 drawing of the SS15 and post it thare.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately, I do not have SolidWorks, but something similar can be done in SketchUp. You can unfold the horn with a little time and patience. Then you use the unfolded horn to pick the best spots for the S3 position. You can't get the lengths directly from it though. You have to manually add the section lengths up, as some of them will be at an angle.

singlesheet.gif


After you straighten the horn out on one side, you draw a line connecting the top of the S2 and S4 positions. Now just look for the point along the horn between S2 and S4 where the horn is at the farthest distance away from the new line you drew. That is your S3 point, and the horn segment volumes, and flare rates will now be as close to accurate as possible.

If it lands in a corner pick the first straight section point that is closest to it.

In this case, you will find that section 2 will have less volume than is present in reality, and section 3 will be pretty close. This is caused by all the extra volume present in the s-curved top section of the horn. This is one of those times where HR will get you close, but not all the way there. You would need to move this horn into AkAbak to get a better picture of the final FR, but the HR should be close. You can cheat a little in HR by selecting section 3 as a Con flare, and making S3 a little larger than it is in reality.
 
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#300
jbell said:
what music are you playing? If you have spectral charts showing EXACTLY what frequencies you need, and if you can share your setup amps/high pass and indoor vs outdoor that would be helpful.

As a general rule these will do everything except d&b and dub. You just need to run them in pairs or more to flatten out the response down to 40hz.
Click to expand...

In another thread, I posted tracks that had energy at 28Hz and 30Hz. Realistically, the majority of tracks that get played out at events get down to 35Hz. I figure if this SS15 can be modded to do that (instead of 40Hz w/multiples), then going flat to 32ish may be possible with 4-6 - even if it takes more than 1 sheet.

I'm currently using an RMX2450 + dbx DR260, high pass available at any freq and play mainly indoor events.

Many thanks to your superior designs and knowledge you've shared so willingly.

BEST regards,
Justin
 
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