It will change the loop characteristics and will be susceptible to kinds of noises too. If it can lead to further problems, this is only with hands on measurement in each build so to say.
First PSU mod completed... I just swaped the 25v tx by the block RK 30v one.
I am reading 40V in for 28vout in the shunts.
Major improvements in spatiality.... everything got bigger and more detailed (I also notice a reduction in noise ... maybe the block TX is more silent).
Of course there is much more heat inside the case so next I will try to reduce the voltage in 4 volts..... Hope this does not affect the soundstage size.
I am reading 40V in for 28vout in the shunts.
Major improvements in spatiality.... everything got bigger and more detailed (I also notice a reduction in noise ... maybe the block TX is more silent).
Of course there is much more heat inside the case so next I will try to reduce the voltage in 4 volts..... Hope this does not affect the soundstage size.
So you got such improvements simply replacing the xfrm..... The german toroids must be quite good then.
Are you going to upgrade the shunt to v1.1? Until Salas will release the v1.2 he's working on 😀
Are you going to upgrade the shunt to v1.1? Until Salas will release the v1.2 he's working on 😀
Yes.... I believe my issues with the v1.1 where related with low input voltage.
Now I am ready to try again.
Now I am ready to try again.
I need an help from you, guys.
Before ordering all the parts I need and designing a suitable RIAA pcb, I would like to ask Salas, Ricardo, Disco and others their findings about the right capacitors.
> C out (3.3uF): the suggested type seems to be Obbligato Premium copper or gold. Good sound, nice price I read.
Did anybody try Mundorf Supreme which is more or less in the same price category?
> C 4 (0.1uF): here a huge russian teflon cap (ft-2 or ft-3) seems mandatory. Not expensive and very transparent you reported.
Again, did anybody try an alternative? Obbligato, Mundorf, etc.? What about smaller polypropylene film & foil?
I have some nice old blue Ero KP 1838/63V 2.5% that might fit.
> RIAA Caps (47 & 16 nF) most of you suggest some bulky russian silver mica. Are those really different (read better) from the modern dipped ones? And what about polypropylene film & foil such as the tiny green Wima FKP2 or even Teflon? Not easy to find in the right value, but it's always possible to // them and get the desired values.
I have a lot of FKP2/63V 2.5%, but even some 1% capacitors branded "Madrigal" (most probably teflon) pulled out from and old ML No.25 cannibalized board.
As far as polystyrene, I don't like them too much. They are now cheap and unrealiable. Unfortunately the good silver axial ones manufactured by Philips are no longer available. Not to mention the ps film & copper foil caps manufactured by the Japanese company known for the Noble pots that Hiraga was using many years ago in his Kaneda preamp! Absolutely unobtainable nowadays.
Contibutions highly welcomed!
Before ordering all the parts I need and designing a suitable RIAA pcb, I would like to ask Salas, Ricardo, Disco and others their findings about the right capacitors.
> C out (3.3uF): the suggested type seems to be Obbligato Premium copper or gold. Good sound, nice price I read.
Did anybody try Mundorf Supreme which is more or less in the same price category?
> C 4 (0.1uF): here a huge russian teflon cap (ft-2 or ft-3) seems mandatory. Not expensive and very transparent you reported.
Again, did anybody try an alternative? Obbligato, Mundorf, etc.? What about smaller polypropylene film & foil?
I have some nice old blue Ero KP 1838/63V 2.5% that might fit.
> RIAA Caps (47 & 16 nF) most of you suggest some bulky russian silver mica. Are those really different (read better) from the modern dipped ones? And what about polypropylene film & foil such as the tiny green Wima FKP2 or even Teflon? Not easy to find in the right value, but it's always possible to // them and get the desired values.
I have a lot of FKP2/63V 2.5%, but even some 1% capacitors branded "Madrigal" (most probably teflon) pulled out from and old ML No.25 cannibalized board.
As far as polystyrene, I don't like them too much. They are now cheap and unrealiable. Unfortunately the good silver axial ones manufactured by Philips are no longer available. Not to mention the ps film & copper foil caps manufactured by the Japanese company known for the Noble pots that Hiraga was using many years ago in his Kaneda preamp! Absolutely unobtainable nowadays.
Contibutions highly welcomed!
I'm looking on cheap hammond 155/159 choke price is 10 to 20€ Cruz to try on raw psu....
Massimo look at amphom from audicap/hicollective very good sound at decent price....
Massimo look at amphom from audicap/hicollective very good sound at decent price....
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I am using a 47nF obbligato gold in the riaa and it proved to be much better than russian PIO.
Teflon is superior in the interstage coupling position. I have tried polypropylene and stacked polysterene there also. PP film & foil I haven't tried.
Those huge micas are better than modern little micas. But if you can find modern pp film & foil its a good alternative. Has to work synergistically with the interstage. You cook. If small and good the layout gets tighter and that is a plus.
Polysterene old is good, modern I am not sure. What about RCL polysterene?
for what I read..... modern RT (not rtx)polystirene is the best "cheap" alternative to modern teflon .
silver/mica is more brigth vs poly , but only read......need the Cruz certificate tester 😀😀
silver/mica is more brigth vs poly , but only read......need the Cruz certificate tester 😀😀
The big Soviet MIL SPEC NOS lacks the brightness. That's good, but its huge for layout. What I do sometimes, is pp//MilSM small value.
Guys, before making comparisons on capacitors based on taste and under varying conditions, I'd like to point to this very well written text. It has a scientific nature but it reads easily. Pay attention to the explication of self-resonance on page 6.
Regards, Jaap.
Regards, Jaap.
Lookie, lookie!
🙂 Got a DL 103R. Fortunately says 0.32mV on its individual spec sheet. Not 0.25mV as advertised. Even better. That is for 47k though. Does any body know where the audiophiles tend to usually load it? I would think that 150 Ohm is the minimum since it has 14 Ohm coils.
🙂 Got a DL 103R. Fortunately says 0.32mV on its individual spec sheet. Not 0.25mV as advertised. Even better. That is for 47k though. Does any body know where the audiophiles tend to usually load it? I would think that 150 Ohm is the minimum since it has 14 Ohm coils.
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So 1:20 minimum you suggest. Then I will have to use min 14:5=2.8*100=280R. Ok will do when ready. 1:36 you use for your 5 Ohm leads me to 504R. A good bracket.