@SKA76
Yes,C5 and C9
I don't use sockets but Salas/Tea-bag's PCBs and Diyaudio store's PCBs are very good quality and strong enough to swap parts.
Yes,C5 and C9
I don't use sockets but Salas/Tea-bag's PCBs and Diyaudio store's PCBs are very good quality and strong enough to swap parts.
With dimm bulb tester and 470 ohms 10 watts resistor / 1 ohm RD/Link 47.6 VDC; without dimm bulb tester 48.8 VDC. Appears borderline high, should I install the 27R for a safety margin?
Not sure what is happening: the 1 ohm RD/Link I have cut out and the 27 ohms resistor is soldered in at the adjacent outer through holes, measuring with the dimm bulb tester and without dummy resistor 49 VDC. Bulb did not lighten up.
The lug of the XLR binding post (both PSU and phone stage?) also needs to be connected to the bolt?
It is a bit confusing to me when VR1 is used in this thread, since there are 2: one 1kohm (signal board) and one 10kohm (power supply section).
Both need to be adjusted for voltages when different types of cartridges are used?
Both need to be adjusted for voltages when different types of cartridges are used?
I couldn't resist to test MC cartridge,I bought second hand dl103 for 100usd.
Setting T.P 4v took for while to be stabled.
Voltage keep going lower little by little.
The sound is ok,clean, smooth and have more bass but no punch.
I found it a little boring.
It could be fixed needle though.
I found someone offering to swap to boron cantilever with shibata needle or micro linear for extra money.
With disassemble and cleaning coil,stick lead damping with a little extra money.
Today I was really thinking this but maybe I better go at33ptg/2 next year.
Setting T.P 4v took for while to be stabled.
Voltage keep going lower little by little.
The sound is ok,clean, smooth and have more bass but no punch.
I found it a little boring.
It could be fixed needle though.
I found someone offering to swap to boron cantilever with shibata needle or micro linear for extra money.
With disassemble and cleaning coil,stick lead damping with a little extra money.
Today I was really thinking this but maybe I better go at33ptg/2 next year.
Attachments
Tamra and Nikos, it's a sin to critisize DL103 you know,
beware of the wrath of the almighty
And DL103R had almost nothing of the magic of the DL103. The other day I put on my UFSP with DL103 and it sounded very dynamic and exciting, maybe because DCG3 with UBIBs have that extra LF slam and if one's amp is up to it you won't notice any roundness in highs and lows. Of course if you put on another cart it would show.
There are some comparisons (youtube?) of OC9s vs AT33s. I haven't heard AT33SA but many people prefer it over PTG/II
beware of the wrath of the almightyAnd DL103R had almost nothing of the magic of the DL103. The other day I put on my UFSP with DL103 and it sounded very dynamic and exciting, maybe because DCG3 with UBIBs have that extra LF slam and if one's amp is up to it you won't notice any roundness in highs and lows. Of course if you put on another cart it would show.
There are some comparisons (youtube?) of OC9s vs AT33s. I haven't heard AT33SA but many people prefer it over PTG/II
I see, I am not sure if my second hand dl103 have right sound.
I saw AT33SA have good reviews and youtube but it's too expensive for me and shibata needle have less life.
I wonder how come the price goes up.
Oc9 series also have dual coils.
My pre and amplifier is good enough but I might need to upgrade turn table.
I am thinking Kenwood kp-1100,kp-9010 or yamaha gt2000.
I saw AT33SA have good reviews and youtube but it's too expensive for me and shibata needle have less life.
I wonder how come the price goes up.
Oc9 series also have dual coils.
My pre and amplifier is good enough but I might need to upgrade turn table.
I am thinking Kenwood kp-1100,kp-9010 or yamaha gt2000.
One fragment of the insulation of R13 close to the lead has broken off after population. The resistor measures normal. Should it be replaced anyway in terms of long term function?