I wish I could have at33ptg/2 or OC9xml next year.
I sold dl-103 with same price.
Before better cartridge,I need better turn table having more sensitive tone arm.
I just bought Kenwood kp-1100 for 260usd.
At least I can sell it if I didn't like.
Yamaha gt2000 is too expensive for me but kenwood kp series are much affordable.
I sold dl-103 with same price.
Before better cartridge,I need better turn table having more sensitive tone arm.
I just bought Kenwood kp-1100 for 260usd.
At least I can sell it if I didn't like.
Yamaha gt2000 is too expensive for me but kenwood kp series are much affordable.
Attachments
What about alternatives to AT33? Hana? is it available in Japan, or is it an export brand only? Also ZYX R50 0.48mV MC is it cheaper in Japan than in Europe and USA? 0.5mV MC class will usually give better dynamic range than 0.25-0.3mV class.
I don't find Hana in Japan.
At33ptg/2 is around 420usd.
ZYX R50 exceed bloom costs around 890usd.
I might go at33ptg/2 for the price.
Now I am spending too much so I need to save.
Chuden MG36BPH has good reputation.
It's MM but has boron cantilever and solid ML diamond.They said that have beed OEM long time and failed pricing for cheaper MG3675.
The diamond looks amazing.
At33ptg/2 is around 420usd.
ZYX R50 exceed bloom costs around 890usd.
I might go at33ptg/2 for the price.
Now I am spending too much so I need to save.
Chuden MG36BPH has good reputation.
It's MM but has boron cantilever and solid ML diamond.They said that have beed OEM long time and failed pricing for cheaper MG3675.
The diamond looks amazing.
Attachments
Hello
I also would like to test different caps (except C3, C4 and C2Y) on the phono board however I do not have any reworking skills. Would sockets be a feasible option in terms of sound quality or rather not advisable?
My C3 cap is larger than the board. Should I use some Blu Tack to form a cushion to fill the air gap between cap and board or not critical if floating?
The MC cartridge I want to use has the following specs:
Channel separation: 35dB or better at 1kHz.
Internal impedance: 5.5 ohms.
Output voltage: 0.5mV (Recommended load: 100 ohms to 47k ohms).
Which DIP switch settings should I use? Is the SUT I have for this cart still necessary?
One more question concerning the test point setting procedure: the pot on the shunt regulator board needs to be adjusted for each and every cartridge? This is set before the cartridge is connected?
Thank you and happy new year´s eve everybody.
I also would like to test different caps (except C3, C4 and C2Y) on the phono board however I do not have any reworking skills. Would sockets be a feasible option in terms of sound quality or rather not advisable?
My C3 cap is larger than the board. Should I use some Blu Tack to form a cushion to fill the air gap between cap and board or not critical if floating?
The MC cartridge I want to use has the following specs:
Channel separation: 35dB or better at 1kHz.
Internal impedance: 5.5 ohms.
Output voltage: 0.5mV (Recommended load: 100 ohms to 47k ohms).
Which DIP switch settings should I use? Is the SUT I have for this cart still necessary?
One more question concerning the test point setting procedure: the pot on the shunt regulator board needs to be adjusted for each and every cartridge? This is set before the cartridge is connected?
Thank you and happy new year´s eve everybody.
Last edited:
Hi,
-Sockets and Blu Tack are not bad for testing caps but better solder after settled for choices in the end. Leg joints may corrode a bit if exposed.
-Sensitivity LMC. S5 ON S6 ON S9 ON all others OFF. SUT is not necessary. Loading switches to your subjective choice. See table in post17,791.
-Not for each and every cartridge but for different output categories of cartridges because you must also change the phono's sensitivity setting.
Happy new year 2U2!
-Sockets and Blu Tack are not bad for testing caps but better solder after settled for choices in the end. Leg joints may corrode a bit if exposed.
-Sensitivity LMC. S5 ON S6 ON S9 ON all others OFF. SUT is not necessary. Loading switches to your subjective choice. See table in post17,791.
-Not for each and every cartridge but for different output categories of cartridges because you must also change the phono's sensitivity setting.
Happy new year 2U2!
Happy and Healthy New Year everybody!
Currently trying to sort out internal signal wiring.
I would like to use:
Thanks again.
Currently trying to sort out internal signal wiring.
I would like to use:
- A braided copper sleeve in combination with a single run for signal and the braid for ground.
- Or better a double run: one for signal and one for ground that is connected to the braid at both ends?
- First connect the PSU with Dimm bulb tester to only the UBiB and tweak to 32 -34VDC measured at PSU out?
- When VDC is reached connect to signal board with DIP switches set to the cart specs AND without cart connected and further dialing on UBiB pot until 4VDC is reached at TP.
Thanks again.
Hi, and happy new year!
-Use single core shielded coaxial cable. Its enough. Two cores significantly increase the cable's capacitance. Not good, especially with MM.
-Re test point: (1) Correct. (2) Correct.
-Use single core shielded coaxial cable. Its enough. Two cores significantly increase the cable's capacitance. Not good, especially with MM.
-Re test point: (1) Correct. (2) Correct.
The DBT will drop some AC mains Voltage but a correctly working UFSP doesn't pull too much power. Not eating all its raw DC headroom due to moderate AC drop. The TP setting is on a regulated rail. Should be alright with a 60W EU-100W USA incandescent bulb. Just recheck TP when off the DBT for peace of mind.
Power amplifiers running on unregulated rails is indeed a waste of time to bias when still on the DBT.
Power amplifiers running on unregulated rails is indeed a waste of time to bias when still on the DBT.
If it's running on a dim bulb tester, you should set it up connected directly. Why invite uncertainty?
You're going to run it connected directly anyway - I hope!
You're going to run it connected directly anyway - I hope!
Afaik the ordinary ones don’t sell anymore but the oven-lamps are still available. Wattage doesn’t matter much, only thing that happens at full short on dut is they get their supposed voltage. Smaller socket tho.
HNDIYY everybody!
I once found a nice ready made DBT that I grabbed but didn't see it offered again. I also found few incandescent bulbs in local old electrician stores. Up to 200W. In most test applications a 60W is good at 230V. I once surely needed a 300W for a big tube amp though but I am still looking for one. Since it has two outputs I stick a meter in the unused one to monitor the final AC voltage after the current limiting drop and I switch bulb to bigger if necessary. Glow intensity is the instant hint but when also having a reading it is even better.
@Salas off the topic, sorry
You can find all varieties of bulbs here. They are UK-based; you can give it a try.
https://www.lampco.co.uk/collections/incandescent-gls
You can find all varieties of bulbs here. They are UK-based; you can give it a try.
https://www.lampco.co.uk/collections/incandescent-gls
Nice incandescent stock, great if living in the UK. Delivery to EU is 40 Pound though and then there is the local customs office. They must also survive the trip because big light bulbs are especially fragile.