The real improved version seems to be this one...
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005...00030407780674!sea&curPageLogUid=Yt3dd3NVfpO5
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005...00030407780674!sea&curPageLogUid=Yt3dd3NVfpO5
Is it? It’s only half the price versus the Shui Yuan Deluxe version ($18 vs $36) which seems to good to be true…
There’s also this one:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_Eydls2D
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005...cm-url=1007.40000.267768.0&pvid=c6e59a3e-aa4c -4d68-aa64-dc9ae189e83d&_t=gps-id😛cDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40000.267768.0,pvid:c6e59a3e-aa4c-4d68-aa64-dc9ae189e83d,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238107%2359&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22% 3A% 2212000027068297803% 22% 2C% 22SENID% 22% 3A% 2230050% 22% 7D & PDP_NPI = 2% 40DIS% 21% 2138.23% 2130.59% 21% 21% 21% 21% 41311BACT 212806888888888888888
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yes that's the upgrade version. i got this amp and happy with it. very clear sounding and very good lows
That's what I mean, the link in post 483 is only $18 whereas the one in 485 is $40 (Enhanced). Is the one for $18 really the same as the $40 Enhanced version (according to the description, the only difference between the Deluxe and Enhanced version is that the latter has BT added but the photos show two completely different boards)?
audiobits79, cool clip - what it is?
audiobits79, cool clip - what it is?
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I ordered the "improved" version. I have a question about this amp: is the PCB's label correct on the filter inductor side? 22 uH? Isn't too much?
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It looks the same at half the price...
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005...e16657435420841007e9d85!12000030549084287!rec
I have one of the original Shui Yuan modules and when tested at higher frequencies (ex: 1 kHz) everything works pretty much as per the spec sheet. I can see about 225 W @ 4 ohm or 125 W @ 8 ohm. But at low frequencies of, for example, 100 Hz., the module goes into a latched fault (requires a manual reset) with 4 ohm loads at as little as 165 W output. At power levels just below the fault threshold there is some sporadic oscillation near peak power:
I checked the supply voltage, and while it drops a few volts, perhaps from 48 V to 46 V as load increases, it doesn't seem to be doing anything crazy.
I confirmed OC_ADJ is 22k ohm, so per the datasheet, a latched fault with no CLIP_OTW indicates either UVP or OLP (CB3C>1.7ms) since the temperature is also low. The PVDD is well above the UVP threshold so unless something wonky is happening with GVDD it doesn't seem like an UVP issue. That leaves OCP, but I'm not sure how the FET current could be over 17A for an extended period given the peak output current at 43 V and 4 ohms is just over 10 A.
Since this is going to drive a 4 ohm subwoofer I really don't want to have to hard reset the amp whenever things get a bit loud. Has anyone else seen something like this or have any ideas where to start looking for the source of the problem?
I checked the supply voltage, and while it drops a few volts, perhaps from 48 V to 46 V as load increases, it doesn't seem to be doing anything crazy.
I confirmed OC_ADJ is 22k ohm, so per the datasheet, a latched fault with no CLIP_OTW indicates either UVP or OLP (CB3C>1.7ms) since the temperature is also low. The PVDD is well above the UVP threshold so unless something wonky is happening with GVDD it doesn't seem like an UVP issue. That leaves OCP, but I'm not sure how the FET current could be over 17A for an extended period given the peak output current at 43 V and 4 ohms is just over 10 A.
Since this is going to drive a 4 ohm subwoofer I really don't want to have to hard reset the amp whenever things get a bit loud. Has anyone else seen something like this or have any ideas where to start looking for the source of the problem?
Agree, it's not actually the amount of power that I am really worried about, it's that the amplifier shuts down until it is power cycled.
It could be the supply breaks down at higher than .... amps which you would not see on just a multimeter
I have a suggestion ( did it myself ! ) concerning ALL TPA3255-boards to
absolutely assure the best possible thermal coupling between the chip
and its heat-sink .
Here´s how to : Take the heat-sink off and clean both the chip and sink.
Put 4 drops of silicone where the 4 corners of the heatsink are on the pcb,
put a bit of oil on the heatsinks corners , and place it on the chip in its
correct position , then lightly press down and leave for 24 hours for the
silicone to cure. carefully remove and clean the heat-sink , put thermal
paste on the chip and mount it using longer srews and compression springs
the same way as is done with a CPU. The springs will compensate for a chip
not sitting perfectly flat on pcb pressing the sink onto the chip while the
4 silicone-drops will avoid the sink getting too low near its sides causing a
possible short with some component below . Done
Anyone welcome to use and re-post this idea freely if so desired
absolutely assure the best possible thermal coupling between the chip
and its heat-sink .
Here´s how to : Take the heat-sink off and clean both the chip and sink.
Put 4 drops of silicone where the 4 corners of the heatsink are on the pcb,
put a bit of oil on the heatsinks corners , and place it on the chip in its
correct position , then lightly press down and leave for 24 hours for the
silicone to cure. carefully remove and clean the heat-sink , put thermal
paste on the chip and mount it using longer srews and compression springs
the same way as is done with a CPU. The springs will compensate for a chip
not sitting perfectly flat on pcb pressing the sink onto the chip while the
4 silicone-drops will avoid the sink getting too low near its sides causing a
possible short with some component below . Done
Anyone welcome to use and re-post this idea freely if so desired
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Yes, I checked the PS rail with an oscilloscope too. The PS voltage was pretty stable, just dropped a couple of volts with higher load.