I haven’t found any, but haven’t really looked into it recently.
The led upgrade isn’t plug and play but does give good results.
I believe the brightness level might be too high for me.
HINT, for all CCFL users.
An overhaul of the HV driver must be done to prevent some expensive repairs after.
HINT, for all CCFL users.
An overhaul of the HV driver must be done to prevent some expensive repairs after.
Hello
Just stumbled about this thread, please forgive me if ask something already answered. Who is manufacturer and how is the part number of the integrated color LCD?
Kind Regards
Phil
Just stumbled about this thread, please forgive me if ask something already answered. Who is manufacturer and how is the part number of the integrated color LCD?
Kind Regards
Phil
Hi Phil,
Welcome!
I have pictures on my drive (the first link of the thread) that shows 2 possible models that i came across off.
Cheers,
Bart
Do you know the year of the unit?
As mine is using Sharp but a different panel.
Will have to check
PS. Bart do you have .05 or .06?
As mine is using Sharp but a different panel.
Will have to check
PS. Bart do you have .05 or .06?
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Not on my side but I had in mind 2 possible exploration here.
Use a more recent low power PC / CPU motherboard that consume less than the old PC technology used in the UPL that needs larger current to operate. Some have an ISA slot.
Provide the 5V to the existing old PC using a DSMPS as I believe that nowadays those are much better in term of noise. SMPS made a lot of progress since the UPL was designed, it seems that R&S UPP is using SMPS if I am not wrong and I saw some able to measure 135dB distorsion levels.
See Screenshot of Page 7 of the volume 2 service manual.
I have Rev5 (UPL) and a more recent revision of UPL66. My LCD is a Toshiba one.
Attachments
The UPL can do -130dB no problem.
UPD is using a switcher for the PC side.
My only reasoning to use a separate PSU for the PC end is to reduce the heat generated by the +5V regulator.
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That's the nice thing about the upgrade, you can tune the brightness by having a dimmer, led-choice, current-limit, or diffusers.
I'm not needing sunglasses just yet to operate the UPL, although that would make me look cool though...
That was not my point to say that UPP can do better than UPL. I know that UPL is very good despite its age.
And I am not talking about UPD, but UPP.
I got your reasoning from the beginning but anyway this is my idea of investigation.
And I am not talking about UPD, but UPP.
I got your reasoning from the beginning but anyway this is my idea of investigation.
Question.
UPL `98 made. LCD seems dead.
Thumping on it appears to briefly show some image.
No image can be seen otherwise, even with a bright light.
No check was performed on the external output.
Thoughts, before I dismantle it?
UPL `98 made. LCD seems dead.
Thumping on it appears to briefly show some image.
No image can be seen otherwise, even with a bright light.
No check was performed on the external output.
Thoughts, before I dismantle it?
On some LCD’s there is an interconnect, yours might have a bad connection it seems.
Go for it i would say. Keep us posted on your findings.
Bart
LTM08 on this one. `97 made.
Connections are OK.
Is the foam surrounding the LCD frame EMI conductive?
Suitable replacement?
This is my 5th UPL, 3 of them had recent factory calibrations. Only one had B1 option.
Curios how the UPD manages better THD+N despite having an inferior ADC.
Connections are OK.
Is the foam surrounding the LCD frame EMI conductive?
Suitable replacement?
This is my 5th UPL, 3 of them had recent factory calibrations. Only one had B1 option.
Curios how the UPD manages better THD+N despite having an inferior ADC.
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Finally bought the UPV, with B1 option.
-115dB with B1 option active.
UPL can do -113db with B1.
Not overly impressed.
-115dB with B1 option active.
UPL can do -113db with B1.
Not overly impressed.