Vishay VAR R6 + short 4 wire hopefully will prove best for synergy with your DAC and your subjective preferences.Thanks Salas for your explanation... i 'm going to try vishay var.. to see.
Vishay VAR R6 + short 4 wire hopefully will prove best for synergy with your DAC and your subjective preferences.
Yes maybe.
today i replace the jfet with the resistor in this case the stock resistor in two wire mode and after a week of listening to the jfet i prefer the resistor version.
in my subjective listening the main difference to me is the stronger lower bass of the resistor version and i think the sound is bigger and stronger than jfet for that reason. the sound with the resistor seems more airy and natural also.
i have to test with vishay var... and i´m doing new boards with fancy parts mundorf etc.. to see in relation to stock parts if there is difference.. then maybe i ll try jfet again...
is it ok for C1 to use russian teflon 0,1uf?? because they are big and the wires will have bigger size to get to the board...
is it ok or technically it is not good for c1???
Well, the extra inductance of longer component leads is not a good thing but since this is not a design relying in SMD layout for super minimal inductance to have smooth cut off frequency profile, its designed to be relatively relaxed for that, you may try. Anyway the traces already contribute some. If you will perceive sharpness then its a hint you overdone it and there's a resonance peak introduced. Then go back to a smaller component.
I would say Led1 green and another three green in series on a super small sized veroboard cut piece with two extension legs to go as one Led in the Led2 place plus using a 12V transformer.
Hello i m going to build a board with some fancy parts.
I bought mundorf 10000uf ag
Elna silmicii 1000uf 25v
Vishay var 1k
Caddock mp930
Ft-3 teflon 0.1uf
Should i stay with the same diodes? Or there are better parts?
Any suggestions?
I bought mundorf 10000uf ag
Elna silmicii 1000uf 25v
Vishay var 1k
Caddock mp930
Ft-3 teflon 0.1uf
Should i stay with the same diodes? Or there are better parts?
Any suggestions?
I have to check...What you already have? MSRF860G? If yes they are very good for a PSU serving digital.
Is the vref considered digital ?
Another thing.
Instead of the teflon could i use russian ssg silver mica...
What are your opinion on quality?
With silver mica i think i will be near the pcb because they are not so apart..like teflon
Russian SSG is very good quality and its a nice affordable option to evaluate in your own parts mix.
There is also a smaller Russian Teflon around, the FT-1 200V, that you can find in very cheap lots at 6800pF i.e. 0.0068uF.
Vref is usually some bandgap referenced circuit. So its a voltage steady analog thing for the DAC to use.
There is also a smaller Russian Teflon around, the FT-1 200V, that you can find in very cheap lots at 6800pF i.e. 0.0068uF.
Vref is usually some bandgap referenced circuit. So its a voltage steady analog thing for the DAC to use.
But the value must be 0.1 uf or could be lower?Russian SSG is very good quality and its a nice affordable option to evaluate in your own parts mix.
There is also a smaller Russian Teflon around, the FT-1 200V, that you can find in very cheap lots at 6800pF i.e. 0.0068uF.
Vref is usually some bandgap referenced circuit. So its a voltage steady analog thing for the DAC to use.
6800pF can work to interesting alternative effect especially if in combination with changing R5 to 2.2 OhmBut the value must be 0.1 uf or could be lower?
There is also a 0.022uF FT-1 that can be used with the existing R5 1 Ohm closer to the original effect
hello i need some help,
on my 5v reflektor i tried to configure for 7v.
disconnect the Rx/J/D jumper and soldered the green led in place.
connect the dummy load but the leds don´t shine... checked the connections and everything seem ok...
on my 5v reflektor i tried to configure for 7v.
disconnect the Rx/J/D jumper and soldered the green led in place.
connect the dummy load but the leds don´t shine... checked the connections and everything seem ok...
ok i found the problem...
i was in two wire mode and connected the sense on the dummy...
now i diconnected the sense on the dummy and the leds shine but with almost no light and i get 6.26 on multimeter...
is this ok??? it shoudn´t be 7v and i the leds shining bright?
i was in two wire mode and connected the sense on the dummy...
now i diconnected the sense on the dummy and the leds shine but with almost no light and i get 6.26 on multimeter...
is this ok??? it shoudn´t be 7v and i the leds shining bright?
Maybe you need a higher transformer? How much is the difference left between input DC and output DC? Input DC can be measured across the big reservoir capacitor or between the positive output of the bridge diodes and some ground point.
Also check the TO-92 transistors Vbe for each, the Mosfets Vgs for each, the heat on those semis. Not to have broken one by the short it probably worked with in your miswired test before.
Maybe is the transformer because is 7v i think....Also check the TO-92 transistors Vbe for each, the Mosfets Vgs for each, the heat on those semis. Not to have broken one by the short it probably worked with in your miswired test before.
I have another with 9v.. i will try.
Thks for the help [emoji3]
I have to check because the secondary of the transformer is 9 v not 7vAlso check the TO-92 transistors Vbe for each, the Mosfets Vgs for each, the heat on those semis. Not to have broken one by the short it probably worked with in your miswired test before.
Better have 12VDC in (or more) for 7VDC out, later anyway for good CCS performance, despite if some semi is broken or not right now.
Hello Salas,Better have 12VDC in (or more) for 7VDC out, later anyway for good CCS performance, despite if some semi is broken or not right now.
I tested with 15v transformer and i have the same readings and simptons.
On multimeter i get 6.30 v and the three leds have dim light.
Maybe i have someting else broken lol.
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