Silver mica would be better than those PSs. I did not pay any attention to the values and that was dumb. Sorry about that.
Size is going to be a problem with anything other than a ceramic.
I have Russian teflons of the correct value but they are huge and will require great care in handling the DAC. But in that position it seems worthwhile.
The box shaped PS from RELCAP are not of the same sonic quality as the tubulars.
Size is going to be a problem with anything other than a ceramic.
I have Russian teflons of the correct value but they are huge and will require great care in handling the DAC. But in that position it seems worthwhile.
The box shaped PS from RELCAP are not of the same sonic quality as the tubulars.
Take a look at Wima FKP, those are pure foil caps (not metalized).
Among the best you can find in a small package.
Get some of that "clay" that kids play with which don't set but is always kind of soft. I used a paint that is used often i cars "Noise Killer".
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The panasonic ECHU are available down to 0603 size and 50 Volts. So they are a drop in replacement.
I compared russian teflons with WIMA MKP and panasonic ECHU in Post-DAC filter applications. They all sound different but the russian teflons were by far the worst. WIMA MKP and ECHU caps are technically superior in high frequency filters and also sounded best to my ears. They are by no means posh and fancy, but they get the job done properly and you can hear that. Just my two cents...
I also have some Panasonic ECHU and Kemet Ceramic MLCC 1200pf 50V but I still have not tried them. I guess I should give them a try.
I can assure you that advice is worth much, much more than two cents! I have been dreading wrestling with those things.
The PANASONIC are probably the way though my masochistic side will want to use the MKPs.
THANKS very much!
A plea to SOEKRIS for advice.
While making my vain attempt in installing the resistors myself I thought I would go ahead and remove the components I have long planned on removing.
(I will be going back to my technician for this!)
All went well until I came to the electrolytic after the 8LO5A - I pulled the positive pad right off of the board.
I am going to use my own +/- 5 volts supplies for the vRef. What I need is a place to insert the + power. I had planned on using the pad under that cap.
Would you point me to a good place to connect the supply.
NOT TOUCHING the vRef supplies I assure you.
If one uses a supply such as the above from what I surmise there is no need for a negative supply for the first half of the board is there? I am not using the op amp buffers.
AS always your help is greatly appreciated. If I screw it up further I will be in line for a new board!
Thanks and take care,
While making my vain attempt in installing the resistors myself I thought I would go ahead and remove the components I have long planned on removing.
(I will be going back to my technician for this!)
All went well until I came to the electrolytic after the 8LO5A - I pulled the positive pad right off of the board.
I am going to use my own +/- 5 volts supplies for the vRef. What I need is a place to insert the + power. I had planned on using the pad under that cap.
Would you point me to a good place to connect the supply.
NOT TOUCHING the vRef supplies I assure you.
If one uses a supply such as the above from what I surmise there is no need for a negative supply for the first half of the board is there? I am not using the op amp buffers.
AS always your help is greatly appreciated. If I screw it up further I will be in line for a new board!
Thanks and take care,
I would recommend using the vias next to the pads, adding a thin wire, there is actually a trace on the rear for each channel so you need to have those two vias connected anyway....
The R-2R network itself need both positive and negative voltage, but the negative voltage is not used for anything else than opamps and vrefs.