Nice and clean work!Here some more pictures of the mods done.
The vias are a blessing to add extra caps, 26AWG wire fits nicely through the vias. Thanks glt !
For the moment playing with the latest filters from Paul, thanks Paul !
Congrats Soekris for the DAC, after the vref mods it's on the level I want it to be 🙂
Here some more pictures of the mods done.
The vias are a blessing to add extra caps, 26AWG wire fits nicely through the vias. Thanks glt !
For the moment playing with the latest filters from Paul, thanks Paul !
Congrats Soekris for the DAC, after the vref mods it's on the level I want it to be 🙂
Congrats!
Damp the clock chip 😉
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Silver mica would be better than those PSs. I did not pay any attention to the values and that was dumb. Sorry about that.
Size is going to be a problem with anything other than a ceramic.
I have Russian teflons of the correct value but they are huge and will require great care in handling the DAC. But in that position it seems worthwhile.
The box shaped PS from RELCAP are not of the same sonic quality as the tubulars.
Size is going to be a problem with anything other than a ceramic.
I have Russian teflons of the correct value but they are huge and will require great care in handling the DAC. But in that position it seems worthwhile.
The box shaped PS from RELCAP are not of the same sonic quality as the tubulars.
Thanks.Congrats!
Damp the clock chip 😉
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What product did you use to damp it ? Where to buy ?
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Size is going to be a problem with anything other than a ceramic.
Take a look at Wima FKP, those are pure foil caps (not metalized).
Among the best you can find in a small package.
Get some of that "clay" that kids play with which don't set but is always kind of soft. I used a paint that is used often i cars "Noise Killer".
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Nice and clean work!
Thanks to the microscope for that 🙂
Take a look at Wima FKP, those are pure foil caps (not metalized).
Among the best you can find in a small package.
I have a pair of FKP2 incoming.
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Size is going to be a problem with anything other than a ceramic.
I have Russian teflons of the correct value but they are huge and will require great care in handling the DAC. But in that position it seems worthwhile.
The panasonic ECHU are available down to 0603 size and 50 Volts. So they are a drop in replacement.
I compared russian teflons with WIMA MKP and panasonic ECHU in Post-DAC filter applications. They all sound different but the russian teflons were by far the worst. WIMA MKP and ECHU caps are technically superior in high frequency filters and also sounded best to my ears. They are by no means posh and fancy, but they get the job done properly and you can hear that. Just my two cents...
The panasonic ECHU are available down to 0603 size and 50 Volts. So they are a drop in replacement.
I compared russian teflons with WIMA MKP and panasonic ECHU in Post-DAC filter applications. They all sound different but the russian teflons were by far the worst. WIMA MKP and ECHU caps are technically superior in high frequency filters and also sounded best to my ears. They are by no means posh and fancy, but they get the job done properly and you can hear that. Just my two cents...
I also have some Panasonic ECHU and Kemet Ceramic MLCC 1200pf 50V but I still have not tried them. I guess I should give them a try.
The panasonic ECHU are available down to 0603 size and 50 Volts. So they are a drop in replacement.
I compared russian teflons with WIMA MKP and panasonic ECHU in Post-DAC filter applications. They all sound different but the russian teflons were by far the worst. WIMA MKP and ECHU caps are technically superior in high frequency filters and also sounded best to my ears. They are by no means posh and fancy, but they get the job done properly and you can hear that. Just my two cents...
Did you at that time also compare with the cheap styroflex ones?
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Did you at that time also compare with the cheap styroflex ones?
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No, unfortunately not. But they cost practically nothing, so it is easy to try out.
No, unfortunately not. But they cost practically nothing, so it is easy to try out.
Please do.
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OK, I'll go to the toy store and get some plasticineI use some UHU product similar to blue-tack for posters
View attachment 505379
The panasonic ECHU are available down to 0603 size and 50 Volts. So they are a drop in replacement.
I compared russian teflons with WIMA MKP and panasonic ECHU in Post-DAC filter applications. They all sound different but the russian teflons were by far the worst. WIMA MKP and ECHU caps are technically superior in high frequency filters and also sounded best to my ears. They are by no means posh and fancy, but they get the job done properly and you can hear that. Just my two cents...
I can assure you that advice is worth much, much more than two cents! I have been dreading wrestling with those things.
The PANASONIC are probably the way though my masochistic side will want to use the MKPs.
THANKS very much!
A plea to SOEKRIS for advice.
While making my vain attempt in installing the resistors myself I thought I would go ahead and remove the components I have long planned on removing.
(I will be going back to my technician for this!)
All went well until I came to the electrolytic after the 8LO5A - I pulled the positive pad right off of the board.
I am going to use my own +/- 5 volts supplies for the vRef. What I need is a place to insert the + power. I had planned on using the pad under that cap.
Would you point me to a good place to connect the supply.
NOT TOUCHING the vRef supplies I assure you.
If one uses a supply such as the above from what I surmise there is no need for a negative supply for the first half of the board is there? I am not using the op amp buffers.
AS always your help is greatly appreciated. If I screw it up further I will be in line for a new board!
Thanks and take care,
While making my vain attempt in installing the resistors myself I thought I would go ahead and remove the components I have long planned on removing.
(I will be going back to my technician for this!)
All went well until I came to the electrolytic after the 8LO5A - I pulled the positive pad right off of the board.
I am going to use my own +/- 5 volts supplies for the vRef. What I need is a place to insert the + power. I had planned on using the pad under that cap.
Would you point me to a good place to connect the supply.
NOT TOUCHING the vRef supplies I assure you.
If one uses a supply such as the above from what I surmise there is no need for a negative supply for the first half of the board is there? I am not using the op amp buffers.
AS always your help is greatly appreciated. If I screw it up further I will be in line for a new board!
Thanks and take care,
A plea to SOEKRIS for advice.
....
All went well until I came to the electrolytic after the 8LO5A - I pulled the positive pad right off of the board.
I am going to use my own +/- 5 volts supplies for the vRef. What I need is a place to insert the + power. I had planned on using the pad under that cap.
Would you point me to a good place to connect the supply.
NOT TOUCHING the vRef supplies I assure you.
I would recommend using the vias next to the pads, adding a thin wire, there is actually a trace on the rear for each channel so you need to have those two vias connected anyway....
If one uses a supply such as the above from what I surmise there is no need for a negative supply for the first half of the board is there? I am not using the op amp buffers.
The R-2R network itself need both positive and negative voltage, but the negative voltage is not used for anything else than opamps and vrefs.
Hello Soeren,
I´ve ordered the new board rev2. There is a photo of the new dam1021 with a new J3 design. Is this correct? If yes, it would be useful to get the description of J3 and J11.
Thanks in advance
Christian
Seems like you're looking at the prototype picture....
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