hershann said:
Anything needed to be changed on Shunty if I use a 36v-0-36v transformer? Found a 72VCT 50VA transformer that is much smaller than the 250VA 84VCT I found earlier - but I guess 50VA might be too anemic.
I do not need that much gain planning on 5 or 7 - so a lower max voltage swing does not matter.
Still looking for suggestions for good source of EI transformers - only sinker is that I am going to need 240V primary.
her shann
for Shunty:
change one of zenners (in D1 - D5 string) for 4V7 , so - you'll have ~ 40V after Q2
set (with WR1 ) output voltage to 30V
in case that you can go so low - increase R9 to 7K5
same procedure for negative side of Shunty
you'll be fine even with 50VA , just look is it too warm .......... in case that these 50VA aren't real 😉
steenoe said:isn't that a bargain
Each Yamster should be terminated (minus some pianos and the V-Max)
Even the most basic models contain gourmand items, we is the recycle bunch.
Pretty lights, the heatsink/plate of the shunty must be a hotpants.
Eh, LL-cøøl-J is first taking it out, and then putting it back in ?
jacco vermeulen said:
Each Yamster should be terminated (minus some pianos and the V-Max)
Even the most basic models contain gourmand items, we is the recycle bunch.
Pretty lights, the heatsink/plate of the shunty must be a hotpants.
Eh, LLcoolø is first taking it out, and then putting it back in ?
Jacco-man, ya too sharp😀 Yep the plate will be changed, when the Pumpkin enters its final home. Look at Rovsings picture of the LL heatsinks😀.
Okay seriously; my AX's were warm, so was the Pumpkin after adjustment. Plugged it in and ...... sound 😀 😀
Sound is very good! I have no idea what ZM did to the J310's, but the sound is crisp, delicate, liquid and very, very much in control! I never build a better preamp, considering all aspects.
The X'ed-CCS'ed CC'ed BosoZ might be a tad more warm in the sound, but it lacks the pinpointed soundstage and extreme details of the topend!! Soundstage is absolutely bang on....
The soundstage is very open, both in width and depth.
I bet its the Shunty thats on play!! I remember to have heard the same sort of openness with the NS10 on shunt's!!
🙂
Q : which commercial pre-amps have shunt regulation ?
Me think a heatsink above 3C/W for the Shuntee is a hot cat on a tin roof.
OK in open air, with a cover on top Iznogood for the lytics.
Maybe if Rovsing keeps them high enuff.
Me think a heatsink above 3C/W for the Shuntee is a hot cat on a tin roof.
OK in open air, with a cover on top Iznogood for the lytics.
Maybe if Rovsing keeps them high enuff.
jacco vermeulen said:Q : which commercial pre-amps have shunt regulation ?
Me think a heatsink above 3C/W for the Shuntee is a hot cat on a tin roof.
OK in open air, with a cover on top Iznogood for the lytics.
Maybe if Rovsing keeps them high enuff.
don't forget that LL is cheapskate and he is feeding Shunties with 2x12Vac ...... heaven knws - Pumpylimpie is certainly starving , with negative-negative voltages

so - he doesn't need 'sinks ,at all .........

Me think i has brain hemorrhoid again.
Don't comprehend the 12Vac part, what is lighting the led-string ?
You mean 2 times 12Vac in series, 24Vac ?
Don't comprehend the 12Vac part, what is lighting the led-string ?
You mean 2 times 12Vac in series, 24Vac ?
Zen Mod said:
ya dumb dutchie ;
that means that Steen is in rotten shape - too much hangin' with Metaldanske, lately 😉
he isn't powered Pumpylipi at all ......... that's more like 2x0Vac .........
so - he need warmers for poor critters , not sinks .....
Talking about starving pumpkins - since I'm going to use the 72VCT transformer and aiming for +/-30V after shunty - is there any other adverse effect on pumpkin other than the reduced max voltage swing?
The F4 is max +/-23v anyway? {ah that's 46v pp, and pumpkin is only 30vpp if single ended.?}
Anyway not going to need that much gain since my speakers are 93db/w in a really small room.
her shann
jacco vermeulen said:Q : which commercial pre-amps have shunt regulation ?
Me think a heatsink above 3C/W for the Shuntee is a hot cat on a tin roof.
OK in open air, with a cover on top Iznogood for the lytics.
Maybe if Rovsing keeps them high enuff.
The heatsinks get really warm. A few ventilation holes in the pcb would help in that respect. Just in case my crazy man, ZM, is gonna do a second run of boards😉 Raising the heatsinks to add a little airflow underneath will also help, ofcourse.
Running only 72VCT like me, helps too😉
Steen (with 2 dedicated preamps, specifically designed for him😀 )
How cool does it get?
Attachments
steenoe said:
Yep, it doesnt get any cooler than that😎
Oh, and which commercial preamps have shuntreg's?? I cant think of any.
🙂
you're just too young to remember that ........
Quad 33 have shunt reg

The super-shunty is Mr Stax Noro's brainchild.
Stax Ca-X,CA-Y, SRA-14S preamplifiers, DA-100 power amp, other stuff.
+ sheetdump of valve junk
Stax Ca-X,CA-Y, SRA-14S preamplifiers, DA-100 power amp, other stuff.
+ sheetdump of valve junk
jacco vermeulen said:The super-shunty is Mr Stax Noro's brainchild.
Stax Ca-X,CA-Y, SRA-14S preamplifiers, DA-100 power amp, other stuff.
+ sheetdump of valve junk
Mr. Noro's shunt reg is example of elegancy , not as Shunty ..........

this - last one - Shunty - is certainly more versatile ( with changing just few resistor values) and plain overkill .....
valve junk was ........ waaaaay before Mr. Noro's sand trap ......
anyway - give me OA2 , keep Noro or Shunty for your self ;
any time

Valvehead, you can stick your Miniwatter WTSDS, any time 
CTC Blow-me-Torch
(If ya had gone for a fet/bjt shunt element instead of darlingading you could have shacked with Ernie-B)

CTC Blow-me-Torch
(If ya had gone for a fet/bjt shunt element instead of darlingading you could have shacked with Ernie-B)
Manu said:Having problem deciphering last posts, I don't know if this thread is the right one.😀
Maître Jacques says : If you halve value of before-reg- caps you should twice the value of dedicated Rs.
So if C15, C16 is 1000u so R21, R23, must be 10R?
Maître Zen says let it unchanged (sorry if I not recall right)?
What should Mallarmé do?
Mebbe my Pumpking Ashanti will play music this WE
Hehe.
manu
if you use plain metal film , for which I never know - are they 0W25 , or 0W4 - then put 2E2 , not 4E7 as in schematic and parts list ............ whatever amount of uF you have in first caps .
if you use plain carbons , you can leave 0W25 jobies here , but do not increase them ........
Thanky,
I asked because I wan't to use 1000uF/100V for the first 2, because of higher voltage after Dagnall, then 2200uF/63V as in Schematic.
I didn't found anything else than carbon 4E7
Hope it is not isnogoud.
Hehe, me Tarzan very excited to soon playing Zique with pumpkin.
manu
I asked because I wan't to use 1000uF/100V for the first 2, because of higher voltage after Dagnall, then 2200uF/63V as in Schematic.
I didn't found anything else than carbon 4E7
Hope it is not isnogoud.
Hehe, me Tarzan very excited to soon playing Zique with pumpkin.
manu
Manu,
i use two 18.7 Ohm resistors in parallel, soldered on both sides of the board.
And they are 0.6W metalfilm, total power handling 1.2 Watt.
Halving the electrolytic values halves the inrush loading, doubling the R values again halves it.
At a cost ; Twice the dissipation, Twice the voltage drop.
A major upside is the lower temperature of the resistors :
-by spreading the heat across two resistors
-by soldering the second one on the pcb bottom side
-because higher powered resistors have a lower temperature at the same load.
70mA through 18.7 Ohms is <0.1W dissipation, <1/6th of their max power capability.
i use two 18.7 Ohm resistors in parallel, soldered on both sides of the board.
And they are 0.6W metalfilm, total power handling 1.2 Watt.
Halving the electrolytic values halves the inrush loading, doubling the R values again halves it.
At a cost ; Twice the dissipation, Twice the voltage drop.
A major upside is the lower temperature of the resistors :
-by spreading the heat across two resistors
-by soldering the second one on the pcb bottom side
-because higher powered resistors have a lower temperature at the same load.
70mA through 18.7 Ohms is <0.1W dissipation, <1/6th of their max power capability.
Attachments
jacco vermeulen said:At a cost ; Twice the dissipation, Twice the voltage drop.
Hi all, ...I coudn't resist....Put a heatshrinks on resistors
😉
Attachments
steenoe said:
We are crossposting😀 I cant think of anything about the pampkin to wish for. Except for the vent holes I mentioned earlier!
The Pumpkin is playing steadily for 2 days now, it sounds just like the silky smooth thing that I like...!!! 2 days here is at least 23 hours a day!! 🙂 He-he....
well ....... there is just no place for these holes .......... besides that - ya know the rule - don't use force - use bigger hammer ........
so - just use bigger 'sinks .........

I likeeee that ya likeeeee 😉
seems that Lykkkk isn't so wackoooo , except that he just doesn't know for new dimension - with Shuntys ......
I'm curios what AR2 can tell , after implementing proper PSU .......
regarding Babbie - currentising it ....... naah ......... but - if you want - we can try that , even if few tech facts are against .......
Strictly On Topic - Srpsko-Sirotinjski Dac
http://www.hifi-forumi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=8015
speak serbian - so entire world can understand ya .....

http://www.hifi-forumi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=8015
speak serbian - so entire world can understand ya .....

jacco vermeulen said:SuSyaDAC-a ?
(mm,can i order some pjeskavica at this site ?)
nope "pjeskavica" ........
ask Manu .....

it will be either xformer output DAC or toob susy output DAC
ya have link to cheap drek in first post
worth every penny 😉
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