spavleski said:
yup - for both , in and out .
it's always like this:
Pin 1 = Shield ground
Pin 2 = Positive balanced signal
Pin 3 = Negative balanced signal
you'll find tiny number near each pin on each good XLR of this world, so you can't miss ............. well - if you look
http://tiny.pl/pz67
Manu said:
Si, biensur.
You can trust a British company with a long track record to put the windings on properly.
Laminating core plates was a good find, the transformer companies have at least a solid 1/4 century experience with it, definitely no risc of mechanical transformer noise.
An output of twice 50Vac is a weeny much, but it does garanty that there's plenty juice left under load, only downside is the additional dissipation.
They're not as lavishly pretty as any of the Partridge PS/OP transformers of which i have a couple, way different league, but miles of difference in comparison to the majority of Asian manufacture.
(c'est dommage nous ne pouvons pas parler trop en Francais ici)
Razor reminds of Capitaine Philippe D'Arnot (Ian Holm, Greystoke)
Vous remain a singe.
Attachments
As Jacco point it out, because of my nice dagnall 2x50V tranny, it would be of advantage to have some volt loss before first reg in shunty (in order to avoid too much dissipation).
Which change concerning R21 to R24 would be fine/allowed for this purpose?
Manu
(no soldering today, too busy at work, so no time for real life...)
This pic is for Isa :
Which change concerning R21 to R24 would be fine/allowed for this purpose?
Manu
(no soldering today, too busy at work, so no time for real life...)
This pic is for Isa :
Attachments
Manu said:
naah......... just let them bleed ....... (AC - Welcome to my nightmare -greatest cabare album I heard .........
)put bigger sinks , and be sure that first elkos have enough voltage
Manu said:
crazy frenchie
Manu said:
yup - she likes Marsupilami ....... one of fave cartoons in last several months
Zen Mod said:
Yes, but have to find more suitable (sizewize).
Shunty will be my ruin. But worth it!!!
(Actually I didn't really want to post attached pic, because it's not reallly interesting and antiOT fraktion is severe here,
and as joke it is only low level.
But the color is fine, no?)
Manu
Attachments
steenoe said:
Manu, that heatsink is not a lot too big, the Pumpkin/Shunty does get pretty hot in use
(I am running 48 V AC under full load, 48-0-48, no load is 50V so the supply sacks 2 volts with the Pampkin connected)
Thanks a lot ,
oh yes, sure I ll keep an eye on temp.
Refering to what you say, I am afraid that just a sheet of Al (event if thick) will not suffice at this place. Although, we will see. As Tarzan used to say : probieren geht über studieren.
Manu
btw:
only the 2281 types show up at RS-C if you narrow down the choice by selecting ptfe as dielectric.
The 100pF type goes as high as $40, but basically only differs by having dust protection.
The Valvo-808 type is the 80s ancestor of these things, but the 808 was completely open style. (Valvo was a HQ Philips branch)
Back then, audio "experts" advised against using trimmer caps in ampy circuits, because of the un-reliability.
The modern types with the plastic encasing do not have that drawback and it's easy to find even fancy plugs that go over the top to fully close it, which makes them outlive the amp.
The trimmer caps used to be nice for adjusting Cdom compensation in regular Vas stuff (mumble mumble, and they sound good)
(bonus speech : 2 small trannies are less "visible" than 1 biggy, unless they wear high heels)
only the 2281 types show up at RS-C if you narrow down the choice by selecting ptfe as dielectric.
The 100pF type goes as high as $40, but basically only differs by having dust protection.
The Valvo-808 type is the 80s ancestor of these things, but the 808 was completely open style. (Valvo was a HQ Philips branch)
Back then, audio "experts" advised against using trimmer caps in ampy circuits, because of the un-reliability.
The modern types with the plastic encasing do not have that drawback and it's easy to find even fancy plugs that go over the top to fully close it, which makes them outlive the amp.
The trimmer caps used to be nice for adjusting Cdom compensation in regular Vas stuff (mumble mumble, and they sound good)
(bonus speech : 2 small trannies are less "visible" than 1 biggy, unless they wear high heels)
hershann said:
Ahh, you like the rubber suspensions
The trafo is pulled out of an old Yamaha C50 preamp. It is 36-0-36V. The Yamaha C70 had the same trafo. I just found one more You can probably find a defective C50/C70 preamp for cheapo somewhere near you. Magura said:
It's not the faceplate that's of interest, but the rear that differs from standard
Magura
Looks like someone build and tested a lot of preamps in that case.
Now who would ever do a thing like that, to such a nice case
steenoe said:
Ahh, you like the rubber suspensions
Looks like someone build and tested a lot of preamps in that case.
Now who would ever do a thing like that, to such a nice case
Anything needed to be changed on Shunty if I use a 36v-0-36v transformer? Found a 72VCT 50VA transformer that is much smaller than the 250VA 84VCT I found earlier - but I guess 50VA might be too anemic.
I do not need that much gain planning on 5 or 7 - so a lower max voltage swing does not matter.
Still looking for suggestions for good source of EI transformers - only sinker is that I am going to need 240V primary.
her shann
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