Plywood VS MDF for speaker construction

Wow. OK, I'm new here, and you're an administrator, but one of us is REALLY confused. If it's me, please set me straight and provide some data to confirm you're assertions. I'm always more than willing to admit that I'm wrong... but what you're saying goes against a lifetime of experience both as a musician and an amateur speaker builder.

Metal?!? Musical instruments are made out of either metal (brass most commonly, followed by nickel, copper, and silver in no particular order), solid woods (spruce, maple, rosewood, and mahogany are typical, depending upon instrument and part function), or plywood in less expensive celli, bass, and some guitars/ukes/etc. The WHOLE point of using those materials is to amplify the sounds produced by the player, whether it be by causing a string to vibrate, then passing those vibrations to a resonating chamber built with the aforementioned materials, or by buzzing one's lips, vibrating a reed, or splitting a column of air (flute/recorder), and then amplifying THAT vibration with a metal conical or cylindrical chamber or bell. Over-simplistic, but that's the idea. There's a reason those materials are chosen; they are good at amplifying resonances, Luthiers go out of their way searching like crazy for perfect "tonewoods," brass instrument manufacturers experiment with different alloys, thicknesses, bores... all because the material influences and enhances the sound.

Now, speaker cabinets. Other than creating the correct box size and damping characteristics for a specific driver's parameters, desired low frequency slope, and designing around or using the diffraction step inherent in the front baffle, the whole POINT of constructing a speaker cabinet is so that the materials do NOT add to the sound in any way. It is, of course, possible to counteract or at least minimize or reduce inherent problems with pretty much any chosen building material, but to say that metal is a better material for building a cabinet than MDF is just... well.... I have no words. I'll defer to the real experts, like Vance Dickason. In addition to MDF, Sonotube is another excellent material; rigid, made up of many layers of paper, and also very minimal resonance.

I'm all ears (OK, eyes) if you can link to any reputable sources that confirm that metal and plywood are better construction materials for cabinets for acoustic reasons. Yes, there's lots of sites that tout the ease of working with plywood compared to MDF, the extra strength for portability, the weight savings, ease of finishing, etc. If, however, we're discussing which material is better acoustically, there really isn't much to discuss. I wouldn't want to carry my speakers anywhere; between 3/4" MDF all around, 1.5" MDF baffle (two 3/4" layers), and then 1/2" Russian birch on top, even my small surround speakers weigh a LOT, and the subwoofers are almost impossible for one person to move. My goal wasn't portable speakers, it was inert cabinets that let the drivers do what they need to do without any additional coloring contributions from the cabinet.

So... yes, you can build speakers out of anything. Yes, plywood is easier to work with. No, it is not less resonant than MDF. If I'm wrong, I'll admit it, but I want to see data.
You want some links to reputable sources?
You are all ears, and eyes?
Watch this:

And stop the nonsense of comparing musical instruments to loudspeakers.
 
That guy?

Unfortunatly you have to know more than him when he misses stuff or repeats untrue generalizations. Some stuff is solid but you have to pick them out.

Suck in everything. There will be truths imbedded with misleading or incorrect information. You have to sift, keep an open mind, see what makes sense, experiment.

dave
 
Sonny when you grow up a bit we can have an adult chat about the technical aspects of plywood vs mdf as it applies to speaker cabinet construction...I had 10 years in at this hobby 30 or so years ago.
My point is this is just that, a hobby, I am citing facts from real world experience using pallets and pallets of materials, ordered directly from mills, not just working in my garage.
Have you had “premium materials” come apart where they shouldn’t have on the router table, or even a table saw? I have.
Do you even know how they are made?

Sorry gramps, not teaching me much🙂
 
But never guaranteed to have consistent laminations, sorry but you are misinformed.

As an avid constructor I have used a fair bit of QUALITY plywood, over the last couple of years I have built a record cabinet out of veneered ply and three coffee tables, one of which was end grain (pictures below) I can honestly say that I have come across zero cavities during these builds. If you are getting voids in your ply I would suggest that you change your source or supplier
 

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I might give this a try in future builds:


ABOUT BAMBOO PLYWOOD​

Bamboo plywood is a strong building material that has become one of the most important alternatives to hardwoods. Thanks to the fast re-growth of plants, Bamboo plywood is a sustainable, renewable resource. Engineered Bamboo can be divided into two main groups; laminated bamboo and strand woven bamboo. To construct laminated bamboo, strips are glued and heat-pressing so the pattern and characteristics of the bamboo nodes are clearly visible. For strand woven bamboo, the strips are turned into strands and then pressed together. This displays a varied patterned appearance

Steve
 
My point is this is just that, a hobby, I am citing facts from real world experience using pallets and pallets of materials, ordered directly from mills, not just working in my garage.
Have you had “premium materials” come apart where they shouldn’t have on the router table, or even a table saw? I have.
Do you even know how they are made?

Sorry gramps, not teaching me much🙂
Ah, well I'm just a drooling hobbyist who don't know much about mass production...of course I did spend 40 years working as an automotive engineer but, y'know, that can't be nuthin' compared to the complexity of your gig. When workpieces "come apart" during fabrication it's more often an issue of inadequate fixturing, poorly maintained tooling, feeds and speeds not appropriate or well controlled, trying to remove more in a pass than is appropriate and safe and so forth. If you are truly sourcing premium material and having issues safely machining it perhaps you need the to consult someone knowledgeable in the field of production engineering. Just because you've shoved pallets of wood past a router bit or table saw blade don't mean you are following best practices kiddo!
 
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Sorry buddy, not going to get into details, but I can assure you that I wasn’t running a router. And my composites experience exceeds farther than you are implying, some of that experience included supplying Lamborghini with equipment and processes, who care, right? I don’t care if you made washing machines or whatever either.

There’s a reason that ultrasonic testing has been used for decades in the manufacturing of plywood.

To each their own!
 
Dave,

Have you read augerpro’s Monster construction methods thread or summary at his soma sonus website?

after viewing that in entirety; as of Feb 2022, it’s not entirely clear whether plywood is absolutely better than MDF.

At the same thickness: I’ve concluded that it resonates differently.

In fact, It looks like constrained layer damping improves things over regular plywood. I wonder then. whether, is this the multi-layering that is improving things.

Revel’s Ultima 2 series speakers use 9 layer MDF.

Now that’s a lot of work for the DIYer, but not impossible, but I wonder whether ply-MDF Is better than ply-wood.
 
Interesting. You’d have to be good with joinery. Two thin peices of veneer+3 ply plywood, sandwiching a damping layer.

Alot would depend on how good the ply is and how effective the damping layer is.

dave
Seems to be mostly aimed at luxury boat builders so the ply would be top quality marine grade. The Okoume version certainly is but with birch you have the choice of the top 3 grades available. Can also be flame retardant or even fire proof.
The biggest problem I see is the minimum order of 10 or 20 sheets. That's an awful lot of boxes you'd have to build. 😉
I shudder to think of the price per sheet...

As for woodworking I suppose butt joints would be quite pointless.
 
The least resonant cabinets I've built, tested by listening and knocking techniques, have been a pair of small bookshelf Woden Bloodhounds for Alpair 5.3's, built in 12mm poplar core ply, then cased in 12mm travertine limestone floor tile material. A wet saw and drill stand with the appropriate bit made fabrication simple, if not easy or mess free, but they look good, sound very clean, and weigh about 15kg each!

Multi layering of different materials seems to work well. Cabinets for Alpair 12pw internally braced and covered in 2mm slate veneer over 18mm far eastern ply are also pretty inert, and volume for volume considerably lighter.

If you enjoy the construction process, which if you are going to bother building loudspeakers you should, then a bit of extra work to get the best from the design can be very satisfying. Not sure about 9 layers, though if creating curved shapes from flexible ply and/or bendable MDF that could be worth a go.