the pieces in not cut out yet 🙂 but i will cut out a piece of the top plate glue the grill under it. and glue a frame under that. then screw it all together.
Hi bobodioulass
Just found your amp photot, looks great. Can I ask where you got those two heatsinks from please?
Also looks like you went for 4 caps rather than 8 in PSU. Are they 30,000uf per cap?
Steve
Just found your amp photot, looks great. Can I ask where you got those two heatsinks from please?
Also looks like you went for 4 caps rather than 8 in PSU. Are they 30,000uf per cap?
Steve
New F5 is born
Many thanks to Nelson for this great design. I just completed my build today and it is a worthwhile improvement over the RevC amp that I have been using. The improvements that stand out for me are improved clarity and depth of image, blacker background, and better base. This is my first experience with class A, very nice. The hardest part was building the case, I usually use wood because it's relatively easy, but this burning class A amp thing got me worried so I made it out of noncombustable components. Runs warm, but I can comfortably touch the heat sinks.
PJN
Many thanks to Nelson for this great design. I just completed my build today and it is a worthwhile improvement over the RevC amp that I have been using. The improvements that stand out for me are improved clarity and depth of image, blacker background, and better base. This is my first experience with class A, very nice. The hardest part was building the case, I usually use wood because it's relatively easy, but this burning class A amp thing got me worried so I made it out of noncombustable components. Runs warm, but I can comfortably touch the heat sinks.
PJN
Attachments
Hi I'm from Thailand I've just completed my F5 for a few week ago. I'ke to show my F5 also. I using Peter Daniel board so I built mono block for F5.






Is that a marble front panel?Many thanks to Nelson for this great design. I just completed my build today and it is a worthwhile improvement over the RevC amp that I have been using. The improvements that stand out for me are improved clarity and depth of image, blacker background, and better base. This is my first experience with class A, very nice. The hardest part was building the case, I usually use wood because it's relatively easy, but this burning class A amp thing got me worried so I made it out of noncombustable components. Runs warm, but I can comfortably touch the heat sinks.
PJN
You can always line the inside with metal foil.
Just think how many valve radios and TV sets have been manufactured with a wood frame.
Check out John's artwork in wood : http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...5-1000-watt-sub-amp-design-build-im001616.jpg
Back in the old day, one of the top 10 causes of fire in the home was actualle TV sets catching fire. I have also owned a NAD 3240PE that cought fire, so I don't use woode inside. I use metal foil og sheets of metal, and then wood outside for looks.
The heatsinks are from heat sinks USA, the 10.04 profile and 7 inches long
10 points for me😀
Looking for something tougher than auto enamel? You can look up powder coating shops in your area, lots of clear and candy colors now, and after baking it's very durable. Or I think it's Bushnell's gun supply place online that sells the old kal-gard formula in a spray can. It sprays on to self-level like a liquid, then you put it in the oven and it becomes the most durable heat-resistant paint-like coating I know of. But I think it only comes in black and maybe a dark brown??? Used to be popular for painting motorcycle engines back when black engines were "in". Now used for gun parts I guess.
Back in the old day, one of the top 10 causes of fire in the home was actualle TV sets catching fire.
Maybe get the facts straight ?
http://www.tukes.fi/Tiedostot/englanti/electricity_elevators/brochure/TV_palo_englanti_5_02.pdf
No 1 fire cause here in the "old days" : those "pretty" TV set cabinets without proper ventilation.
No 2 : TV set pushed against the curtains, shutting the vent openings in the back.
And speaking of new (non-flame-retardant TV casings, because it's healthier) plastic TV's :
BSEF - Fire risk of TVs in Europe
Looking for something tougher than auto enamel? You can look up powder coating shops in your area, lots of clear and candy colors now, and after baking it's very durable. Or I think it's Bushnell's gun supply place online that sells the old kal-gard formula in a spray can. It sprays on to self-level like a liquid, then you put it in the oven and it becomes the most durable heat-resistant paint-like coating I know of. But I think it only comes in black and maybe a dark brown??? Used to be popular for painting motorcycle engines back when black engines were "in". Now used for gun parts I guess.
Had a guy at auto body paint store, tell me that the only clearcoat he knows of that really works on bare aluminum is Por15. Check it out. Looks good from what i have read. Auto enamel looks great, but not super tough. I have 4 kids. I need tough. Dont have a local anodizer and even anodized clear smudges easy to the touch. I have had suggestions of polyeurothane, but i have my doubts.
Hi vdi_nenna,
I got the perforated metal on the top from Home depot, it was already painted. Also got the marble tile that I used for the front and sides from them. I attached the marble by drilling holes part way into the back and epoxying in threaded bolts, then bolted the marble to the metal frame. The downside is that this amp is very heavy.
PJN
I got the perforated metal on the top from Home depot, it was already painted. Also got the marble tile that I used for the front and sides from them. I attached the marble by drilling holes part way into the back and epoxying in threaded bolts, then bolted the marble to the metal frame. The downside is that this amp is very heavy.
PJN
I got the perforated metal on the top from Home depot
What isle? 😀 I'll figure it out.
Hi vdi_nenna,
The downside is that this amp is very heavy.
PJN
Yeah tell me about it...😀
- Home
- Amplifiers
- Pass Labs
- Pictures of your diy Pass amplifier