pass aleph 30
just finished my aleph 30 today.
first setup:
back view:
top view:
on test:
this amp is semi finished, full takman carbon film resistors, elna silmic II, and nichicon goldtune 10000mf x 16.
tested with tannoy spk, very clean and good sounding.
a little distortion occur when passive volume set to half,
but i have to put my ear next to the spk to hear it.
still have to tweaks a little about this.
any suggest?
thanks.
just finished my aleph 30 today.
first setup:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
back view:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
top view:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
on test:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
this amp is semi finished, full takman carbon film resistors, elna silmic II, and nichicon goldtune 10000mf x 16.
tested with tannoy spk, very clean and good sounding.
a little distortion occur when passive volume set to half,
but i have to put my ear next to the spk to hear it.
still have to tweaks a little about this.
any suggest?
thanks.
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😀 Yeah. An issue typical of PA amplifiers. Some PA amps use closed tunnel, but is very very hard to implement. I have one (or more) Philips enclosure and is having difficulty trying to solve this issue.
there are 4sink per side
each sink 8x8x15cm
but this is not big enough to handle the heat.
this amp is very-very-very hot.
and yes you are right, it is better be rotated 90deg
but chassis only 40cm long. 😕
raise those sinks up, and you can cool down 2 of those amps.
the way it is now is the worst way you can have them. all the heat is trapped inside the sinks at all time.
the way it is now is the worst way you can have them. all the heat is trapped inside the sinks at all time.
too bad, the height of chassis is not fit for 15cm, only 14cm.
that is why i lay them down, but it true the heat was trapped inside.
so i need a modification here.
yes, both.
sound like "bees" when the volume set to half, no music.
very little, but however i must eliminate them.
maybe you can get 1cm cut off of th sinks? thats the easy way🙂
does the noise change with volume? and have you tryed with differnt sources?
does the noise change with volume? and have you tryed with differnt sources?
do you have enough deepness for 3 of them , as I said previously , rotated for 90 ?
what sort of volume , with or without the source ?
do you have a scope ?
exactly , same as was the case with amp originally in that case/box
there is no other way .........
there is no other way .........
ZM. i have some doubt that the chassis is 450+mm deep. but is sure is 300+mm deep🙂
that will work🙂 if the boards is not way over 300mm wide😀
that will work🙂 if the boards is not way over 300mm wide😀
noise doesn't change with the volume.
3sink rotated need 45cm and my chassis only 40cm. 🙁
the bees occur with the source, when i disconnect the source it is gone.
i use old pioneer cdplayer.
yes you are right not enough deep.😕
My UGS Preamp
I made this for three years. 🙂
2sk389BL,2sj109BL,ztx450,ztx550,remote contol,acryl-sash
I made this for three years. 🙂
2sk389BL,2sj109BL,ztx450,ztx550,remote contol,acryl-sash
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Sounds like transformer buzz. Good grounding will help (ground the "body"/leg of the EI trafo properly) but when the trafo must operate very hard (close to its full capacity) there is nothing you can do to make it buzz-free.
Such looking trafo are common in my area too. They are written with "A" (ampere) capacity. But they performance is much lower than that, and is easily buzzing with class-A constant current draw. But if you're trafo is not hot then it is okay I guess.
A slight improvement without having to cut anything is by turning the heatsink up side down (the pcb will be underneath). This way you give more room at the bottom and also less heat trapped.
The heatsink and the mosfet is capable of handling the heat, but using such L-shaped aluminum you have to make sure that the heat will quickly transferred from the mosfet --> L-profile --> heatsink --> air.
I have never used L-profile for class-A amp! If I have to I will use double L-profiles. Connections between heatsinks must be tight using compound after sanding the heatsink on level surface (I use glass surface). One of my amp is using similar intermediate profile but made of copper, not Al.
it seams your bees is are a product of a groundloop in the signalway🙂
do you have another source to try?