I suggest you use a female jack on the PSU if you go with the captive cable on the RIAA box - no exposed pins with voltage on them. If you put the cable on the PSU, use a cable with a female plug and male jack on the RIAA box. You can buy assembled 4-pin XLR cables, but check the wire size first.
I went overboard (I like the finish and the smooth engagement of the plug and jack) and went with these:
I went overboard (I like the finish and the smooth engagement of the plug and jack) and went with these:
I go with captive cable at PSU end. So Male chassis connector at Riaa chassis.
The "Cable gland" must be the one I need instead of the chassis connector at PSU end. Many strange names......
The "Cable gland" must be the one I need instead of the chassis connector at PSU end. Many strange names......
137-CGM16N35-ND .....seems I need to by 100 pcs at Digikey.....
Will look at it again tomorrow.......it has been a long day......
Will look at it again tomorrow.......it has been a long day......
Why use connectors at all for the power transmission between the PSU and the RIAA-preamp, why not just solder the wires at both ends directly on the circuit boards and be done with it?
As Santa always says, with reference to the reindeers and the slaigh: ”The Best connection is always the most solid direct connection.”
🎺😎🎸
As Santa always says, with reference to the reindeers and the slaigh: ”The Best connection is always the most solid direct connection.”
🎺😎🎸
It is a bit more practical when setting up the system and when moving around and replace things that it is split I think 🙂
Also for maintenance later it will be practical. Have to decide for a length for the power cable. E.g. if I want to place the PSU part on its own shelf in HiFi-rack then cable needs to be long enough. But also best to have cable as short as possible........very difficult decision!
Now I found a small local place to source "things". Ok for me to support the small shops. Even when they only have the XLRs in chrome (and not black) 😎
I also found a microphone cable (3 x 0.5mm2 + screen). 0.5mm2 should be more than enough for up to 1A current. Cable is 5mm in diameter.
Also the "cable gland" is different but M16 (so should fit into the hole) but only takes cables up to 7mm (from 2 to 7 mm). It should work with the cable I found. The screen is described as "AI-PET foil". It is then nice they have made a wire so it is easy to solder to connector. I assume that the standalone bare wire for the screen has electrical contact with the PET foil screen......and that is the way it is supposed to work.
The cable manufacture is described as "ALPHA WIRE". Cable is dark gray color in description and not brown as in picture.
"Cable gland" very fine.......swiss made 🙂 .....something called Bopla.......Boplaflex. This part must be Swiss made for P3 PSU!
Also for maintenance later it will be practical. Have to decide for a length for the power cable. E.g. if I want to place the PSU part on its own shelf in HiFi-rack then cable needs to be long enough. But also best to have cable as short as possible........very difficult decision!
Now I found a small local place to source "things". Ok for me to support the small shops. Even when they only have the XLRs in chrome (and not black) 😎
I also found a microphone cable (3 x 0.5mm2 + screen). 0.5mm2 should be more than enough for up to 1A current. Cable is 5mm in diameter.
Also the "cable gland" is different but M16 (so should fit into the hole) but only takes cables up to 7mm (from 2 to 7 mm). It should work with the cable I found. The screen is described as "AI-PET foil". It is then nice they have made a wire so it is easy to solder to connector. I assume that the standalone bare wire for the screen has electrical contact with the PET foil screen......and that is the way it is supposed to work.
The cable manufacture is described as "ALPHA WIRE". Cable is dark gray color in description and not brown as in picture.
"Cable gland" very fine.......swiss made 🙂 .....something called Bopla.......Boplaflex. This part must be Swiss made for P3 PSU!
By the way......will use screen wire for Earth and connect it to chassis in Riaa chassis (which is also connected to chassis in PSU).
Don't think I will connect Gnd to chassis in PSU chassis but will in Riaa chassis connect Gnd to chassis via a small NTC.
Then black wire for Gnd, Red for V+ and the transparent for V-.......that is the plan so far.
Don't think I will connect Gnd to chassis in PSU chassis but will in Riaa chassis connect Gnd to chassis via a small NTC.
Then black wire for Gnd, Red for V+ and the transparent for V-.......that is the plan so far.
Hi @MEPER
How nice to see your introduction to the beautiful (and sometimes frustrating) world of vinyl. It´s a world
of give and take. It absolutely gives you pleasure, when every thing i aligned properly........ and it takes a lot of
your money, if you´re not careful 🤣
I read some misconceptions from your earlier posts, where one stood out (never mind the rest). DMM (Direct Metal Mastering)
prevents pre-echo. It does not. Pre echo is from mastertapes, where one layer magnetizes the next layer. Since the the tightest
is always on the inner of the spool, all mastertapes are stored with the "inside out" = you need to rewind them to play them.
Also, I don´t have a single DMM vinyl, that doesn´t sound flat and lifeless, compared to the "normal" way of producing/pressing LP´s.
If you go all the way.... then you´re in for a ride. I sure "fell in deep" over the last couple of decades.
Here´s my vinyl rigs.... not giantly heavy Melco´s or similar, but after some careful mod´s pretty good:
They are playing through my DIY Pass X-Ono clone:
Just a couple of pictures to show you, how this can take off (and this is nothing). I´ve seen far worse 🤣🤣
And next up is out to buy another section of furniture for those stored on the floor.
If not careful, one is constantly running out of shelf space.
Last summer, I also visited Nordsø Records. Besides "Blicher - Hemmer - Gadd" I was lucky enough to get hold of a brand
new copy of the latest Paul Banks "One Man Band - Live". I strongly suggest, you go out there again and ask the for a copy.
It´s absolutely marvellous. And if you find yourself "into" Paul Banks, go and buy all the second hand of his earlier records.
He has never made a bad record....... Ever.
Record cleaning??
Ultrasonic of course. This one is rather expensive, but I highly recommend it anyway. And should you ever need service,
the company´s support is beyond what one could expect. Even after warranty has run out.
One last recommendation, since you´ve started liking jazz.......
Absolutely lovely record(s) (also available as sigle 33rpm).....
Good luck on your future journey. And don´t ever let any frustration stop you. Everything can be figured out, and it´s soooooo
rewarding 😎
If ever in the neighborhood (around Aarhus), shoot me a PM. Maybe we could find time to spend a couple of hours
listening to our common passion........ VINYL 👍👍
How nice to see your introduction to the beautiful (and sometimes frustrating) world of vinyl. It´s a world
of give and take. It absolutely gives you pleasure, when every thing i aligned properly........ and it takes a lot of
your money, if you´re not careful 🤣
I read some misconceptions from your earlier posts, where one stood out (never mind the rest). DMM (Direct Metal Mastering)
prevents pre-echo. It does not. Pre echo is from mastertapes, where one layer magnetizes the next layer. Since the the tightest
is always on the inner of the spool, all mastertapes are stored with the "inside out" = you need to rewind them to play them.
Also, I don´t have a single DMM vinyl, that doesn´t sound flat and lifeless, compared to the "normal" way of producing/pressing LP´s.
If you go all the way.... then you´re in for a ride. I sure "fell in deep" over the last couple of decades.
Here´s my vinyl rigs.... not giantly heavy Melco´s or similar, but after some careful mod´s pretty good:
They are playing through my DIY Pass X-Ono clone:
Just a couple of pictures to show you, how this can take off (and this is nothing). I´ve seen far worse 🤣🤣
If not careful, one is constantly running out of shelf space.
Last summer, I also visited Nordsø Records. Besides "Blicher - Hemmer - Gadd" I was lucky enough to get hold of a brand
new copy of the latest Paul Banks "One Man Band - Live". I strongly suggest, you go out there again and ask the for a copy.
It´s absolutely marvellous. And if you find yourself "into" Paul Banks, go and buy all the second hand of his earlier records.
He has never made a bad record....... Ever.
Record cleaning??
Ultrasonic of course. This one is rather expensive, but I highly recommend it anyway. And should you ever need service,
the company´s support is beyond what one could expect. Even after warranty has run out.
One last recommendation, since you´ve started liking jazz.......
Absolutely lovely record(s) (also available as sigle 33rpm).....
Good luck on your future journey. And don´t ever let any frustration stop you. Everything can be figured out, and it´s soooooo
rewarding 😎
If ever in the neighborhood (around Aarhus), shoot me a PM. Maybe we could find time to spend a couple of hours
listening to our common passion........ VINYL 👍👍
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Fancy setup and you have really many records 🙂
Can see you also use Norstone rack with glass shelves. I like my. Seems to be very stable and rack was reasonable priced. HiFi furniture's can be extremely expensive.
Maybe I will get the additional TT glass shelve for the Norstone rack and then place the riaa part below and then the psu part on the shelve below.
About the pre-echo and DMM it was something I read at the internet. Maybe here:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Direct_metal_mastering
At the end there are written about Advantages and Disadvantages.
I will look for Paul Banks when I visit Nordsø again. Hopefully soon.
Could be very interesting to hear your setup one day!
You live close to Troels Gravesen. His setup is also worth a visit 🙂
I have wondered about the chassis connection in a TT. How is it connected to the cartridge wires?
Is it a direct connection to the gnd-wires? .....or via a resistor, capacitor......or ?
Can see you also use Norstone rack with glass shelves. I like my. Seems to be very stable and rack was reasonable priced. HiFi furniture's can be extremely expensive.
Maybe I will get the additional TT glass shelve for the Norstone rack and then place the riaa part below and then the psu part on the shelve below.
About the pre-echo and DMM it was something I read at the internet. Maybe here:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Direct_metal_mastering
At the end there are written about Advantages and Disadvantages.
I will look for Paul Banks when I visit Nordsø again. Hopefully soon.
Could be very interesting to hear your setup one day!
You live close to Troels Gravesen. His setup is also worth a visit 🙂
I have wondered about the chassis connection in a TT. How is it connected to the cartridge wires?
Is it a direct connection to the gnd-wires? .....or via a resistor, capacitor......or ?
For what its worth, not a fan of glass shelves for ttbl. My Clearaudio Ovation currently sits on an IsoAcoustics ZaZen platform on top of glass shelves, got an Iso Delos on order, even at moderate volume if you tap on the glass it will come thru the speakers.
I like what a ttbl designer(?) said, "A ttbl is a vibration measuring device.", and as we know you are measuring grooves/vibrations in the billionth of inches! Pretty remarkable that it works at al!
Could be nice with a shelf (non wall mounted) where you can fine tune the level. That would probably require a 3-feet solution.
Thought I would share a little trick for ttbls that sit on a rack, if you have foot fall problems, and the rack is freestanding. Take something, like a piece of wood, that is slightly longer than the distance between shelf and the wall. Lean the cabinet away from the wall and wedge the wood between the rack and wall, higher is better.
It´s not grounded to the cartridge via wires. Usual by mechanical contact to the headshell, although not always.
The turntable ground is usually a connection to the arm/armbase´s metal part. Sometimes the bearing is grounded as well,
so you have bearing, a wire to the armbase and further to the ground terminal of the riaa/phono-input. See the armtube as a shield,
where you also mechanically connect the headshell (I know.... your headshell is integrated). It´s all for shielding the weak signals
from the cartridge 😉
About Troels G.......... close or close mrs. Blom.......
it´s around 150 Km´s away, so not exactly close 🤣 🤣
And...... since i blew one of my ribbontweeters in my Maggie´s 3.6R´s
I now happily live with the "Asathor´s". You can find the building thread HERE
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Ok.....yes....of course....the head shell, armbase etc.....is connected to chassis. Then it should be ok when TT chassis is connected to riaa amp chassis that internal wiring in riaa has signal Gnd to chassis via a 10 ohm resistor or similar. There will be no problem with ground loops.
Regarding level adjustment of my TT. It could be finetuned a little bit.
I know that some TT's have such a feature but not my model. It is probably not expensive enough......
You wrote Aarhus area......and that is where TG lives 🙂
Asathor's.......so you don't need a TG-speaker for now.....
Regarding level adjustment of my TT. It could be finetuned a little bit.
I know that some TT's have such a feature but not my model. It is probably not expensive enough......
You wrote Aarhus area......and that is where TG lives 🙂
Asathor's.......so you don't need a TG-speaker for now.....
