Always on....the good news is that everything lit up properly, it didn't smoke, and I didn't place myself in orbit.
you have ohmmeter, use it
irrelevant; mid pin and one/any of outer, that's your switch; error would be using two outer pins and mid free
finally
then you most likely melted switch while soldering; these are extremely fragile to heat
Thanks ZM. I'll order another one. Are you suggesting that the 35 minutes of 750 degree heat was maybe too much? LOL...Of all the bits n bobs that go into these DIYAudio projects, the switches always feel cheap. Though I do like how they look from the front...even though i can barely see them.
But another stoopud question: shouldn't I be able to turn the power supply on and off with the switch on the schurter, regardless of whether I fried the innards out of the switch? Maybe I'll order another one of those as well...
for proper analysis we need more data
as pictures are not showing everything, say that Shurter type/datasheet could be useful to see and then ask right question - "did you.....?"
again, there is nothing wrong trying too use ohmmeter .......
I did learn with time - whenever staring at datasheet is not helping me, I resort to staring at Goats........ after few days of relaxing that way, suddenly I'm able to see laughing Goat even in datasheet
as pictures are not showing everything, say that Shurter type/datasheet could be useful to see and then ask right question - "did you.....?"
again, there is nothing wrong trying too use ohmmeter .......
I did learn with time - whenever staring at datasheet is not helping me, I resort to staring at Goats........ after few days of relaxing that way, suddenly I'm able to see laughing Goat even in datasheet
Easiest test is to disconnect the quickconnects and test the IEC power module by itself. Just be mindful of it being live with 120V/15A.
Goats are totally underrated.for proper analysis we need more data
as pictures are not showing everything, say that Shurter type/datasheet could be useful to see and then ask right question - "did you.....?"
again, there is nothing wrong trying too use ohmmeter .......
I did learn with time - whenever staring at datasheet is not helping me, I resort to staring at Goats........ after few days of relaxing that way, suddenly I'm able to see laughing Goat even in datasheet
But in honor of goats generally, i have ordered another schurter.
Good Morning (or afternoon!) ZM!
With power off, I get no continuity at the Schurter. Fuse is good: 200mA, 250 V slow-blow. I'm sure I fried the switch, but what are the chances that the Schurter is mucked up too?? I used quick connects there, so I didn't burn it up with my ham-fisted soldering....
With power off, I get no continuity at the Schurter. Fuse is good: 200mA, 250 V slow-blow. I'm sure I fried the switch, but what are the chances that the Schurter is mucked up too?? I used quick connects there, so I didn't burn it up with my ham-fisted soldering....
if you have powered preamp with mains plugged in, there must be continuity
if that's the case (as I understood), then this applies - in many cases I did found my measuring equipment much smarter than I am ........
if that's the case (as I understood), then this applies - in many cases I did found my measuring equipment much smarter than I am ........
Hmmmm. I was going by your question (post #5249).
So I should plug it in, Schurter switch on, then test for continuity...If you see a small comet in low-ish orbit, that's going to be me...😱
So I should plug it in, Schurter switch on, then test for continuity...If you see a small comet in low-ish orbit, that's going to be me...😱
if you have plans to live long and prosperous life, while occasionally successfully building something electrical, you need to differentiate some things
with circuit unpowered - in passive mode, continuity is checked with ohmmeter
with circuit powered, continuity is checked with voltmeter
now, if you have device successfully powered on, that alone is proof of continuity
as I understood - existing problem is that you can't switch it Off, from whatever reason and you're trying to deduce why??
as with anything shared in public, awaiting some commentary, it's best laying out facts and wants and expectations in logical and condense manner ..... or you'll get potential commentees confused
at least I am now, too much jingling back to posts you wrote
it must be me, reading too many threads in same time
with circuit unpowered - in passive mode, continuity is checked with ohmmeter
with circuit powered, continuity is checked with voltmeter
now, if you have device successfully powered on, that alone is proof of continuity
as I understood - existing problem is that you can't switch it Off, from whatever reason and you're trying to deduce why??
as with anything shared in public, awaiting some commentary, it's best laying out facts and wants and expectations in logical and condense manner ..... or you'll get potential commentees confused
at least I am now, too much jingling back to posts you wrote
it must be me, reading too many threads in same time
Sorry ZM. You are a huge help always...
Yes, I'm testing continuity with the ohmmeter unpowered. I'm getting a reading: .991 Ohms, switch on or off. Makes no difference. Regardless of small SPST switch possibly being toast, I can't switch the Schurter off. It is on full-time...So indeed, you have understood the problem perfectly.
Have ordered a new one from Mouser.
Yes, I'm testing continuity with the ohmmeter unpowered. I'm getting a reading: .991 Ohms, switch on or off. Makes no difference. Regardless of small SPST switch possibly being toast, I can't switch the Schurter off. It is on full-time...So indeed, you have understood the problem perfectly.
Have ordered a new one from Mouser.
that is continuity, practical (if you actually wrote 0.991 Ohms)
you'll probably get slightly lower reading having two probes directly together (dead short), and that's confirmation for ya
continuity means - two points where probes are connected are in contact ( dead short)
no continuity - ohmmeter screen shows Ol (or something as that, depending of actual instrument)
now, as mhenschel asked, and it was asked before - what is exact type of IEC you're using?
it could help, someone writing where to connect which wire, so you can check did you got it right
It's the one in the BOM:
Schurter DD12.9111.1111
also the fuse holder Schurter 4301.1405
These may be obvious, but are you getting power at the Shurter output and the switch input?
Could you have a bad solder at the connection pins or the switch?
Possible broken wire?
Could you have a bad solder at the connection pins or the switch?
Possible broken wire?
problem is - it's always On
in that case, dud IEC
as there are 3 output prongs at back (safety GND/case, Live, Neutral) and entire business is contained inside (thus operator can't ruin it), that's only conclusion
and yes, as you can't switch it Off with small switch (for front plate), it's Gremlin level of coincidence