I'm going with the conclusion that the Schurter (not a cheap item in this build!) is a dud, and that the SPST is frazzled by heavy handed doldering. I've ordered new ones. But this time, i'll use quickconnects at the SPST...
Thanks everyone for jumping in to help!
Thanks everyone for jumping in to help!
as long safety GND is connected to mid prong, everything is safe and electrically - irrelevant where N and L are oriented
Live being switched is safety protocolar thing, but - as I said - irrelevant electrically are you going to switch N or L
I like my fingers tender... not crispy like Dumbledore's.
All this prompts a question: if the filter protection is tripped/ burnt out do you just throw these away? Maybe if there is an external fault that is still threatening the Pearl, that should be investigated and a separate filter purchased? Cheaper to replace. Just a thought.
By the way, if you're gonna have a front panel switch why have a switch in the filter? The AC cord is unpluggable after all.
Yep. It's good, and the correct value...but the problem has been that i can't turn the power on or off, either at the spst switch or at the Schurter...power is there, and it "works." I just want to be able to thrn it off...😉
My "hotted up" Adcom GFP565 has been powered on for 9 years without failing yet!
Yessir, it appears one item came as a dud (schurter) and i "dudded" the other all by myself. Going to replace both as soon as that mouser box arrives!
Hello,
I would now like to start building my Pearl3.
I found 10pcs 2SK170bl in my spare parts, could I also use them.
If so, by how many ohms must R4-R7 be increased.
Greetings Dirk
I would now like to start building my Pearl3.
I found 10pcs 2SK170bl in my spare parts, could I also use them.
If so, by how many ohms must R4-R7 be increased.
Greetings Dirk
Hello everyone,
I have just received a quasimodo jig PCB (V$4) and I'll build it this weekend. I have an oscilloscope.
Here is my question:
I have already soldered in the snubber caps that go across the transformer secondaries. Do I have to remove them or can I somehow use the jig with them in place? It would be an elegant solution if i could just let them be, but obviously I could take them out in no time if needed.
Thank you
I have just received a quasimodo jig PCB (V$4) and I'll build it this weekend. I have an oscilloscope.
Here is my question:
I have already soldered in the snubber caps that go across the transformer secondaries. Do I have to remove them or can I somehow use the jig with them in place? It would be an elegant solution if i could just let them be, but obviously I could take them out in no time if needed.
Thank you
It sounds like you didn't follow the Quasimodo recommended test procedure, @raduschka . Normally builders will test the bare-naked transformer all by itself, soldered to nothing else whatsoever, using a Quasimodo or Cheapomodo jig and a 9 volt battery and an oscilloscope. If you know with great certainty that you will solder Cx= 0.01 microfarads into the final equipment as the first element in the snubber network, then you should also use Cx= 0.01 microfarads in your Quasimodo jig testing.
If however you now have a transformer which is not bare-naked, and which is soldered to a PCB or to other components, then you have two options. Either (A) un-solder the transformer, make it bare-naked again, and connect it to the Quasimodo test jig to perform the standard snubber optimization procedure; or else (B) check the Quasimodo Results (only) Forum thread to learn whether other members have run Quasimodo snubber optimizations on the exact same transformer as yours -- same trafo manufacturer, same trafo part number; or else (C) borrow or purchase another transformer identical to the one you now have, and use it bare-naked to optimize a snubber with the Quasimodo test jig. Then return it or keep it or sell it.
If however you now have a transformer which is not bare-naked, and which is soldered to a PCB or to other components, then you have two options. Either (A) un-solder the transformer, make it bare-naked again, and connect it to the Quasimodo test jig to perform the standard snubber optimization procedure; or else (B) check the Quasimodo Results (only) Forum thread to learn whether other members have run Quasimodo snubber optimizations on the exact same transformer as yours -- same trafo manufacturer, same trafo part number; or else (C) borrow or purchase another transformer identical to the one you now have, and use it bare-naked to optimize a snubber with the Quasimodo test jig. Then return it or keep it or sell it.
Another option - if you're using the power supply PCB from the kit and the Tamura or Amgis transformer, use the snubber values from the build document in post #1 and rest easy. I tested a pile of these transformers, they're consistent in the snubber values they want.
And for future quasi use get a few caps that you leave in the quasimodo for testing.
And for future quasi use get a few caps that you leave in the quasimodo for testing.
Thank you very much both of you. I had gotten the instructions so wrong. I spent a long time trying to understand the facts behind this procedure and I somehow convinced myself that to measure actual ringing you'd have to have the transformer installed in the circuit and interacting with the diodes!! I ended up using 34ohm, the closest I have to 30ohm, which is listed on the quasimodo values (only) forum for my Talema transformer. I had bought a scope and the whole diy jig, pcb and parts just for the occasion 🙂