It's only a matter of time until someone deploys four 12V sealed lead acid batteries to give "raw" ±24 volt supplies, then connects a UDP3 filter board between the batteries and a Pearl 3 phonostage. Batteries ---> UDP3 filter ---> Pearl 3. UDP3 includes four heatsinks and it can comfortably drop ±24V to ±19V_approx while running cool.
Why would anyone do such a thing? Maybe, because it seems like a lot of fun; AND because it completely isolates Pearl 3 from the AC mains; AND because it also yields an even lower noise supply. Batteries are a lot quieter at 2xFmains than the transformer + rectifiers + filter capacitors on UDP3, after all.
If they put the batteries in a separate chassis, Pearl 3 becomes a three chassis phonostage: batteries; supply filter ; phono amplification. It might allow the builder to include recharging circuitry (with double or triple relay isolation) in the third chassis. The recharge contrivances could run from a pair of DC wall warts if desired; then all three chassis would be completely isolated from the AC mains -- including the rechargeable battery box.
Amen to that, i wanna build Pearl 3 with battery PSU, power sonics (brand)battery, charging unit all mentioned above, unfortunately my skills (lack of them) can't allow me to do that, Company Channel D uses in their phono stages battery PSU And they sound vacuum dead quiet.
The LM7xxx regulators add noise to battery power but it never migrates to the ear. I've done the measurements. The P3 power plan is fine as originally posted...
I rather connect 3x6V battery, make some charger circuit, that should be best. Since i'm not skilled, original PSU for P3 will be fine, shame there Is not dual PSU solution, if there is real improvement for such solution.
There is, if you diy it. Isn´t it what this is about.......... diy??shame there Is not dual PSU solution, if there is real improvement for such solution.
You double it yourself. I did. Had transformer made with 4 x 16 volt secondaries, 2 x psu-pcb´s and
7 pole connector (plus - 0 - minus x 2 and a chassis connection) and voila....... You have a dual psu 😉
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Hi,
I had this kit(s) for a long time but some months ago I set my TT asaide... it was a mistake.
Some days ago I rediscovered the TT-sound and decided to build the Pearl 3, finally.
So, the psu took one and a half hours to finish, and now to the amp boards 😀
Here the psu boards, left the original kit, the other one is from @rhthatcher
I had this kit(s) for a long time but some months ago I set my TT asaide... it was a mistake.
Some days ago I rediscovered the TT-sound and decided to build the Pearl 3, finally.
So, the psu took one and a half hours to finish, and now to the amp boards 😀
Here the psu boards, left the original kit, the other one is from @rhthatcher
Okay, it was a fun day - minus mounting of the Sado-Maso-Devices... and the fact that there are no 2SK170 included, but according to the BOM in the kit they should be there... 🤔
but according to the BOM in the kit they should be there...
(looks at printout for kit)
Oooh... I need to fix that. Thanks! 🙂
damn Wiennamese ....... he wants to cheat, to get double JFets


Only soldered some caps, no semis...how did the SMD soldering go?
what technique did you use?
Some flux to the boards pins with a brush, very little amount of solder, placement of the part with tweezers, and soldering.
And lots of ranting, cursing, then removing part and starting again... 😀
You must tape the device in place if soldering with a normal iron. Wet the tip, place the tip so it will touch the pad and the lead, and add a bit more solder than has a good flux.
If you are using lead-free solder, well, best of luck, you'll need it.
If you are using lead-free solder, well, best of luck, you'll need it.
No, I don't use the damn smd jfets... you can have them for free if you want 😀damn Wiennamese ....... he wants to cheat, to get double JFets
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Problem: where to get 2sk170? I know, from the shop, but it costs an arm ang a leg until it's here in Europe, unfortunately not justifiable.
Is the LSK170BK an alternative?
Use the Toshiba 2SK209's. The circuit was intended for them. They are sitting on your bench right now. The other component values need no modifications.
Genuine Toshiba 2SK170 can be had from seller Punkydawgs on eBay, send a note and ask for the lowest Idss quads he has.
Yes, you could use the LSK170 from the store, get the lowest Idss.
If using any 170s, change the source resistors to 22R.
Genuine Toshiba 2SK170 can be had from seller Punkydawgs on eBay, send a note and ask for the lowest Idss quads he has.
Yes, you could use the LSK170 from the store, get the lowest Idss.
If using any 170s, change the source resistors to 22R.
SMD is... tricky, I fear I can't do it properly. But maybe I'll give it a try. Many thanks for the advice!
Here is my smd-art 😱 I don't know if the cap is caramelized...
🙄
Here is my smd-art 😱 I don't know if the cap is caramelized...

You must tape the device in place if soldering with a normal iron. Wet the tip, place the tip so it will touch the pad and the lead, and add a bit more solder than has a good flux.
If you are using lead-free solder, well, best of luck, you'll need it.
liquid helper flux is way to go
lead free, only for masochist ........ and those having spare smd parts
Use the Toshiba 2SK209's.
yeah, this is New Kosher
even ZM is using smd
they're singing in your Iron

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