Pearl 3 Burning Amp 2023

+ 1 on 6L6... RIAA preamps are the most sensitive HIFi device I know

I tried to measure mine (DIY but not Pearl 3) while on my working bench, without casing, just to make sure all was Ok... and I failed miserably. It measured awfully without casing, to the point I thought it was defect (it wasn't, perfectly noise free in a cookie later, sounds great)
It is certainly advisable, at least, and possibly necessary. It's also pretty easy to accomplish if your front panel screws make good contact with the panel, since they will also make good contact with the other parts of the chassis into which they are screwed. Why doesn't your front panel make good contact?
Joined 2019
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But it's still aluminum, right? Not steel like the top and bottom plates. Or like my cookie tin.
I've been wondering about this shielding aspect. There is "RFID fabric" out there that the purveyors suggests works like a Faraday cage -- what we want, right? Maybe "bagging" the enclosure with this stuff too would help?
Or is a properly bonded intact (complete) aluminum enclosure -- with remote PSUs... all of them -- OK?


Joined 2010
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The aluminum faceplate itself does not need to be altered to get a good ground. The steel top and bottom plates should be sanded / filed to expose some bare metal that will contact the faceplate.

Re: the aluminum, this is incorrect information. The anodizing can act as a very good electrical insulator and in most cases it will need to be scraped to bare metal to ensure electrical connection to the rest of the chassis.

Yes, 100% the paint needs to be scraped from the steel.

@mhenschel A (properly bonded) all-aluminum chassis is more than good enough for shielded. My prototypes are aluminum.
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