^
"Remember the nifty trick that you can simultaneously use the RCA and the XLR… the balanced line driver does it’s job without affecting the SE output in any way, and also does it’s job in a way totally self-contained, I.E., it doesn’t care what’s going on and just smiles."
THAT is a killer application.....
My plan, when I get to it, will be to drive a P3 to a single ended CJ tube preamp AND a balanced Iron Pre.
As you can imagine, I'll be able to drive a plethora of amps... SITs, Alephs, Tubes, etc... into two different speakers.... Maggies and smallish English speakers. (1)
Imagine being able to roll op amps and almost immediately, with just turning up the volume in one and down on the other, hearing two different audio chains.
Except, that it will be something like 1200 watts coming out of the power line... hmmm.... not an issue with the dedicated power lines, just the absurd cost of California Gold Power.
@runclesid: thanks for the write up for opamps.... I'm looking for a further list of candidates. I'm using a Grado Master 2 with the 1.0mV. It does best with 47K ohm load but is impervious to capacitive loading. Yet, I've had good results with 100 ohms in the past.
(1) Of course, the amps themselves are SE and balanced... so that's another layer of audiophile neurosis. BTW, someone has an older, but refurbished, pair of Audio Note AN-J/SPx for a good price about 10 miles from me..... hmm....
"Remember the nifty trick that you can simultaneously use the RCA and the XLR… the balanced line driver does it’s job without affecting the SE output in any way, and also does it’s job in a way totally self-contained, I.E., it doesn’t care what’s going on and just smiles."
THAT is a killer application.....
My plan, when I get to it, will be to drive a P3 to a single ended CJ tube preamp AND a balanced Iron Pre.
As you can imagine, I'll be able to drive a plethora of amps... SITs, Alephs, Tubes, etc... into two different speakers.... Maggies and smallish English speakers. (1)
Imagine being able to roll op amps and almost immediately, with just turning up the volume in one and down on the other, hearing two different audio chains.
Except, that it will be something like 1200 watts coming out of the power line... hmmm.... not an issue with the dedicated power lines, just the absurd cost of California Gold Power.
@runclesid: thanks for the write up for opamps.... I'm looking for a further list of candidates. I'm using a Grado Master 2 with the 1.0mV. It does best with 47K ohm load but is impervious to capacitive loading. Yet, I've had good results with 100 ohms in the past.
(1) Of course, the amps themselves are SE and balanced... so that's another layer of audiophile neurosis. BTW, someone has an older, but refurbished, pair of Audio Note AN-J/SPx for a good price about 10 miles from me..... hmm....
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Found a couple more great looking NPN alternates for the ZTX851-starved and BJT rollers out there... pay attention to the data sheet pin order! ...
- MPS8099 (Central Semi) - looks really nice, should work well for both Q5 or Q8. Good ft, high Va, low Vce(sat) corners, low rbb' (per Horowitz & Hill). Same EBC pin order as ZTX851.
- KSC1815-Y (ON Semi) - also very nice, not quite as low Vce(sat) knees, but good ft. If anyone has data on the rbb' of this (and it's complement KSA1015), I'd love to know. This one should also work very well for either Q5 or Q8, as long as it has Vce ≥ 1.0V in circuit. ECB pinout.
- The previously mentioned KSC1008-Y looks super for Q8, but I don't think I'd recommend it for Q5 due to its low specified ft unless you can test it in circuit to ensure stability inside the loop with U1A. EBC pin order. Note, they also sell this part with ECB pin order: KSA1008C.
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The vinyl playback tweak of the day. Better sound for free: Put the record weight on the dust cover instead on the vinyl when playing music - and enjoy reduction of unwanted vibrations and feedback.
Then lean back in the sofa and simply crank it up: Enjoy the Cleaner sound and more solid and harder hitting bass delivery!
🎺🙂🎸
Then lean back in the sofa and simply crank it up: Enjoy the Cleaner sound and more solid and harder hitting bass delivery!
🎺🙂🎸
Some would suggest to use the weight as intended en remove the cover for better SQ 😉
Yea, you are right. That could very well be the case for you. It all depends on your system, and personal preferences.
Test it and do what sounds best in your system. In my Very powerful system it is a very clear enhancement to the overall sound with the arrangement that gives less accoustic feedback.
🎺🙂🎸
Test it and do what sounds best in your system. In my Very powerful system it is a very clear enhancement to the overall sound with the arrangement that gives less accoustic feedback.
🎺🙂🎸
Oh, you don't mean that seriously - maybe 10kg. And there are other toys for old men too. You know: Lego bricks.
I have something weird going on with the P3 I built for my office. All voltages check out with me getting 3.9ma across R27.
The unit is not stable when playing music. I first noticed it sounded a bit distorted and the volume took turning all the way up. Turning the volume pot you can hear it clicking such that it’s not grounded correctly.
The opamps are also heating up hot to the touch but only when sound is playing through it.
Any ideas what I could be dealing with? The only values I changed from the original parts list are C21 and c22 lowering the value to 100 ohms.
The unit is not stable when playing music. I first noticed it sounded a bit distorted and the volume took turning all the way up. Turning the volume pot you can hear it clicking such that it’s not grounded correctly.
The opamps are also heating up hot to the touch but only when sound is playing through it.
Any ideas what I could be dealing with? The only values I changed from the original parts list are C21 and c22 lowering the value to 100 ohms.
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Have you tried a standard dip8 opamp in the sockets (and ensure it is orientated correct)?
It seems same problem in both channels?
Strange that opamps only heating op when they gets signal?
Something strange is happening and it seems the amp does not have much gain since you need to turn op the volumen to max.?
It seems same problem in both channels?
Strange that opamps only heating op when they gets signal?
Something strange is happening and it seems the amp does not have much gain since you need to turn op the volumen to max.?
I'm having trouble interpreting how your power umbilical is wired to the UDP3. It looks like there are two white wires both soldered to ground and two blue wires, one wired to the positive rail and the other to the negative rail. so a 4-pin XLR, yet your power jack in the Pearl 3 has 3-pins? And the Pearl 3 chassis itself is ungrounded?
Orientation is correct. They are the opamps I used on my first P3 and they operated fine. I can try another pair.
Here is a better pic from top to bottom:
- blue wire umbilical umbilical negative
- 2 white wires are the ground
- the blue wire connected to GND in the middle is an led ground wire
- umbilical positive blue
- then a brown led positive connection
- shield is attached at the post (black wire)
- green wire is chassis (safety from the iec)
Right now in the RIAA chassis on the 4 pin connector I do NOT have the shield attached to the chassis yet.
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I take it you've checked continuity through the umbilical to verify that positive rail pin is positive, negative rail pin is negative, ground pin is ground & there's no continuity between them?
The similarity of colors in that umbilical is confusing and would lead me to be extra double carefully checking everything.
The similarity of colors in that umbilical is confusing and would lead me to be extra double carefully checking everything.
Yes. I just unhooked it again and confirmed no continuity between the umbilical
I did however, notice something weird when the umbilical is hooked up to the UDP3 PSU but NOT hooked up to the P3 RIAA.
Between Ground and the positive Voltage (pins 2 and 3) with the unit off the DMM dances around.
Between Ground and the negative Voltage (pins 3 and 4) with the unit off the DMM measures 1.25K
I will pull the UDP3 board out and see if there are any bad solder joints.
Between Ground and the positive Voltage (pins 2 and 3) with the unit off the DMM dances around.
Between Ground and the negative Voltage (pins 3 and 4) with the unit off the DMM measures 1.25K
I will pull the UDP3 board out and see if there are any bad solder joints.