The original ATC all have foam, but my kit did not. I am guessing the reason is not adding foam to a speaker makes it sound warmer with more bass 'volume' to the sound, but the extra you are hearing is due to standing waves and so is basically distortion that is adding to the sound. This you dont want. Adding the foam on the top , bottom and sides, but not front baffle will reduce standing waves and an an a and b test the one with the foam will sound quieter and a bit less full, but with longer listening you have just got rid of the boxes honking.
Regards
CL
Regards
CL
I thought you meant in the rear chamber of the mid as I was sure they were sealed back, hence why I was asking. And if so, why did this kit not have that in the driver, but that wasn't what you were referring to - thought it might have been an OEM type variant or the like.
My experience with foam is that it does little especially placed in the walls as that is where particle velocity is lowest. Lots of glass or wool or cotton waste works better even in ported if you place it well and secure it.
PS: I would like to try one of these drivers one day, I just never seem to have a project where they suit.
The foam seemed to make a big difference (eggbox type) I used this as it is what atc use. Before fitting the sound was over full and bass was too much. The original ATC boxes have a couple of braces, but the mid is not seperated and the volume, 100l is the same (old version) as the wilmslow. The only thing I dont know and would love to is is the original crossover the same as the wilmslow version. The crosssover is made by atc, but is it diferent is the big question, and if so why. The wilmslow speakers sound amazing, with foam and also I relocated the crossovers to the base of the box under foam and away from the magnets of the speakers. One thing I still plan to do is slightly shorthen the port as from my calculations the wilmslow port with foam is 2, maybe 2.5cm too long with foam as foam increases the volume of the box so for the port to keep the same tuning freq the length of the needs to be slightly reduced
It takes more than a bit of foam on the walls to change apparent box volume.
http://www.nousaine.com/pdfs/Box Stuffing.pdf
Foam is not as effective as fibreglss as a stuffing material, see here.
But anyway, before assuming your calculations are correct (end factors are estimates for example) it's easier to measure the Z and tune the length via that.
Hello!
I have the Proac EBS speakers too,and i think over a upgrade with the tweeters..
The original tweeters are here the D2008.This are nice tweeters,, but i like the sound of new Ribbons like fountek very much.What you think over a upgrade with the Fountek Neo-3 or JP-3.0?
scan speak
Proac Carbon use ribbons too.Have anybody a schematic for the Carbon?
Greetings.
Seyed
I have the Proac EBS speakers too,and i think over a upgrade with the tweeters..
The original tweeters are here the D2008.This are nice tweeters,, but i like the sound of new Ribbons like fountek very much.What you think over a upgrade with the Fountek Neo-3 or JP-3.0?
scan speak
Proac Carbon use ribbons too.Have anybody a schematic for the Carbon?
Greetings.
Seyed
After looking into the cost and complexity of building these crossovers, which I have no experience, I bought that genuine ATC SCM50/100 set that was floating around Agon and Ebay. I have the correct drivers including the Super mids and Seas tweeters. I'm starting to make serious headway into the cabinets. I chose Speakerlab DAS 7 cabinets since they are 50 pounds stripped of the drivers, have approximate style and have an internal volume of 105 liters. Yay! I get to use plenty of extra bracing to get down to 100 liters.
So after about 50-60 hours of improvising my way through it, they are coming along nicely. I chose to use void-free plywood (1.5" thick baffle screwed into the Speakerlab baffle using 16 threaded inserts) and will be lining the back of each cabinet with about 20 pounds of lead to try and balance out the weight of the woofer (28 pounds) and mid (14 pounds). After having weighed the components individually, I figure each speaker is going to weigh about 130 pounds. Ugh! Still not as much as the genuine, which I think are closer to 150.
I found an ATC SPA2-200P 200 wpc amplifier to drive these with. Needless to say I'm antsy to get this done with so I can enjoy what hopefully will be a close rendering of the real thing for 20% the price.
So after about 50-60 hours of improvising my way through it, they are coming along nicely. I chose to use void-free plywood (1.5" thick baffle screwed into the Speakerlab baffle using 16 threaded inserts) and will be lining the back of each cabinet with about 20 pounds of lead to try and balance out the weight of the woofer (28 pounds) and mid (14 pounds). After having weighed the components individually, I figure each speaker is going to weigh about 130 pounds. Ugh! Still not as much as the genuine, which I think are closer to 150.
I found an ATC SPA2-200P 200 wpc amplifier to drive these with. Needless to say I'm antsy to get this done with so I can enjoy what hopefully will be a close rendering of the real thing for 20% the price.
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I needed to add 9 litres of fill to each cabinet to reduce the volume to 100L. The DAS cabinets were 107 litres, not 105 like I had said previously, and I almost forgot to include the old speaker holes, which added 2 litres of air. I braced these like crazy, the cabs are 15 pounds heavier now, with about 26 feet of .75 x 1.25" oak strips used per box.
The woofer is a 314 SC Mk. II. Super mid, a correct Seas tweeter with a 3 mounting hole, older style faceplate I custom ordered from ATC. They did the conversion for free. I prefer the looks of the 3 hole tweeter over the 4 hole that is current.
The crossovers are pretty awesome. 10 pounds each. Still having fun even though this project is owning a lot of my free time. I'm hoping to finish within a month.
The woofer is a 314 SC Mk. II. Super mid, a correct Seas tweeter with a 3 mounting hole, older style faceplate I custom ordered from ATC. They did the conversion for free. I prefer the looks of the 3 hole tweeter over the 4 hole that is current.
The crossovers are pretty awesome. 10 pounds each. Still having fun even though this project is owning a lot of my free time. I'm hoping to finish within a month.
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Hello ewhitaker!
Wich length/diameter do you take for bass reflex tubes?
Thank you and greetings.
Seyed
Wich length/diameter do you take for bass reflex tubes?
Thank you and greetings.
Seyed
I asked the same question to a member here, who was rebuilding his genuine SCM100s. He stated the port is 4" drain pipe that is 8" long (100 x 200mm) So that's what I followed.
Getting there....Starting to look like I might finish this decade. I'm not thrilled at the plywood grain showing on the baffles. It looks OK. If I was to start over again, I would have used a thin sheet of hardboard over the oak ply to get a smooth finish. I spent hours and hours using different fillers and primers to build up over the grain but it always looked like ***. So I called it quits on that aspect.
I got the crossover mounting holes drilled perfectly. That was worrying me since I needed the placement to be pretty exact. I used pond liner as the baffle seal. I didn't know what to use as my seals until I happened to be at a garden supply store and saw this marvelous black rubber sheet on huge rolls. Twenty feet x 18" strip was only $20.
I got the crossover mounting holes drilled perfectly. That was worrying me since I needed the placement to be pretty exact. I used pond liner as the baffle seal. I didn't know what to use as my seals until I happened to be at a garden supply store and saw this marvelous black rubber sheet on huge rolls. Twenty feet x 18" strip was only $20.
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The tweeter is marked E0006065109-104
The box is marked as follows:
Type: T25CF001
Item Number: E006-06
Impedance: 6 Ohms
I ordered these from ATC. I seem to remember seeing the same tweeter for sale through Parts Express or Dayton for about $130 each. From ATC they were $200 each but I wanted the older face plate.
Since I have posted I have read that the ATC version may have a different coil and face plate, not sure how true this is..
Regards
CL
ewhitaker - Sorry if I have missed this in the thread, but can you post the crossover you used with the T25CF001 tweeter?
Cheers
Cheers
I was fortunate to find a pair of real ATC SCM50/100 crossovers. I was going to order a pair of crossovers from Wilmslow for about $650 USD before I found the real deal.
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You dont have to alter the crossover at all for the Seas T25CF001 when you change from the older Vifa, this was confirmed yesterday when I spoke with ATC. They also said the New ATC units for the SCM 100s have been delayed and will be 6 months to a year before release. I asked if they were going to be a direct drop in replacement too, they said that was what they were hoping for and they should be, but if this was not going to be achievable, then any mods needed would be fully explained and provided when you get the tweeters.
Regards
CL