and buy the active amp units.Did the standard midrange from the Wilmslow kit work perfectly with the active crossover? I was wondering if the lower grade midrange has the same resistance, sensitivity as the super mid the active xovers were made to match.
I bought mine used at the swap meet here. They came from SCM150 Anniversary monitors. I had to supply them with heatsinked cases.
The mids that wilmslow supply are the standard 16 ohm version which are what was used in the original scm 100s. The amp pack work perfectly with the stadard 16 ohm mids like in the wilmslow kit or in older scm100s, or the super mids (I asked ATC). If you really wany the super mids you can always buy the kit minus the standard mids and buy the sl versions from ATC from memory 365 pounds each, but thr RD guy said by far the money best spent is on the amp packs and going active, not upgrading the mids.
Regards
CL
Thanks, it is what I thought too, but again I am not sure either.
Anyone know for sure?
Regards
CL
I'm thinking it might be useful for a person wanting to build their own passive crossover to see where ATC laid out the components. I've read where it can be difficult to bring a schematic to life. The bottom of the board shows the same orientation as the top. I just tipped up the board.
Attachments
Seyed, A representative at Flat Earth Music (North America ATC distributor) told me the crossover is the same with both tweeters. I would be happy to measure the coils, but can I do that when they are soldered into the circuit? Possibly the schematic is a different generation than the design I have? If there is a way to measure the inductors in circuit, help me through it and I will do so.
I am guessing the values written on the coils are the inductance values.
Regards
Chris
Hi ewhitaker,
If it would not be too much of a bother, could you take another picture of the PCB from the underside but ideally with light shining through? It makes it easier to get a sense of the two traces - top and bottom. Not sure if this would work, but holding to a window might work.
Cheers and thanks for posting the pictures - already I am seeing some differences with the your xover and the published one.
If it would not be too much of a bother, could you take another picture of the PCB from the underside but ideally with light shining through? It makes it easier to get a sense of the two traces - top and bottom. Not sure if this would work, but holding to a window might work.
Cheers and thanks for posting the pictures - already I am seeing some differences with the your xover and the published one.
The whole board picture opens up when I checked. I didn't resize the original image so if the icon at the lower left of the enlarged picture is clicked on, it really opens up and defeats the need for looking at the other images, IMO.
Really odd as it does not on my computer and it did yesterday (the pic of the front of the board not the rear). All the other pics open up no problem. Any chance you could post another link to that pic so I can try to work out the board?
Thanks
Chris