Just a reaction while fiddling with crossover for waveguide tweeter, the reduction in energy applied to the tweeter is significant! Must be very audible , hmmm , interesting;-)
Here's a shot of the XT25 without faceplate.
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@Boden - I have a set of XT25s which don't look like the faceplate will detach easily, as they have glue in addition to the 3 screws holding it. I may get the courage to try removing the faceplate and see if that picture i found is accurate for the newest gen XT25.
It is a disposable driver if the VC goes bad, so it can't be repaired when that happens or if I'm not successful at removing the faceplate.
It is a disposable driver if the VC goes bad, so it can't be repaired when that happens or if I'm not successful at removing the faceplate.
I'm trying different rear chamber designs at the moment, so I haven't tried anymore waveguides. I'm going to try a completely different contour when I get back to the waveguides.
Ordered a pair of 5" WG for the SB26 a few days back and they arrived today.
The material I chose was MJF. The make and color looks good. I chose smooth finish, but still it's a little grainer than what I had expected. An image attached for reference - this is good enough to go, or need smoother for optimum performance?
The material I chose was MJF. The make and color looks good. I chose smooth finish, but still it's a little grainer than what I had expected. An image attached for reference - this is good enough to go, or need smoother for optimum performance?
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Brandon,
Thanks for your response and positive comments. And of course, thank you for your efforts in getting these WG out to the DIY community. I look forward to buying you a coffee soon.
These were printed by Zelta3d of Singapore, and the finish is dyed. I ordered through the Craftcloud platform. Order process was easy, and delivery was quick.
Thanks for your response and positive comments. And of course, thank you for your efforts in getting these WG out to the DIY community. I look forward to buying you a coffee soon.
These were printed by Zelta3d of Singapore, and the finish is dyed. I ordered through the Craftcloud platform. Order process was easy, and delivery was quick.
Great work here.
I'm a total nube in 3D development and printing.
I have very slowly started trying out FreeCAD .... not that easy ... but will probably get there ... complex programs take time, and Iø'm not a mechanical engineer ..
What design tools are you using??
I'm today using a a SB26ADC in a Visaton WG148R, but the fit is not at all optimal, and I would like to use larger WG as well for matching e.g. 6.5" ... would be cool to DIY it
I'm a total nube in 3D development and printing.
I have very slowly started trying out FreeCAD .... not that easy ... but will probably get there ... complex programs take time, and Iø'm not a mechanical engineer ..
What design tools are you using??
I'm today using a a SB26ADC in a Visaton WG148R, but the fit is not at all optimal, and I would like to use larger WG as well for matching e.g. 6.5" ... would be cool to DIY it
Brandon is correct - MJF is also a nylon like SLS.
What I read is that HP has done a lot of work in standardizing the MJF additive process, and most 3D printing houses are using HP printers and the quality is more uniform from source to source; for SLS it can vary.
The material feels tough, and the slightly grainy finish is also nice to touch. If I had not chosen "smooth" it is likely the grain size would have been a little larger.
What I read is that HP has done a lot of work in standardizing the MJF additive process, and most 3D printing houses are using HP printers and the quality is more uniform from source to source; for SLS it can vary.
The material feels tough, and the slightly grainy finish is also nice to touch. If I had not chosen "smooth" it is likely the grain size would have been a little larger.
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I tried CNC machining 5 inch elliptical waveguides. The material is ABS engineering plastic, JLC processing, and the surface is sprayed with matting paint.
I tested the horizontal off-axis response. There is a depression at 13kHz on the axial frequency response curve. The rest feels good. Thanks to the author for his enthusiastic sharing!
I tested the horizontal off-axis response. There is a depression at 13kHz on the axial frequency response curve. The rest feels good. Thanks to the author for his enthusiastic sharing!
diyiggy,
I do not want to pollute this thread, but maybe this will be useful for folks who are planning to build speakers using these waveguides.
I plan to make the front baffle in 2 parts - a 6mm outer layer and a 17-18mm inner layer. The 6mm part will probably be laser cut - so I should get a nice and clean cut; it will have the elliptical cut-out for the wave-guide and a circular cut-out for the woofer frame. I am a bit fortunate that both the waveguide outer frame and woofer frame have a similar thickness of ~6mm.
The inner part of the baffle will have the truncated elliptical cut-out for the WG body, and a cut-out for the woofer basket. This will have to be done by router; the truncated ellipse might be done by jig saw, and even if it is not pretty it doesn't matter much, as it will not be visible from the outside.
Then the plan is to glue the inner and outer layers together to form a 24-25mm baffle.
I am planning to a compact stand-mount speaker with 1 mid-bass and a tweeter.
I do not want to pollute this thread, but maybe this will be useful for folks who are planning to build speakers using these waveguides.
I plan to make the front baffle in 2 parts - a 6mm outer layer and a 17-18mm inner layer. The 6mm part will probably be laser cut - so I should get a nice and clean cut; it will have the elliptical cut-out for the wave-guide and a circular cut-out for the woofer frame. I am a bit fortunate that both the waveguide outer frame and woofer frame have a similar thickness of ~6mm.
The inner part of the baffle will have the truncated elliptical cut-out for the WG body, and a cut-out for the woofer basket. This will have to be done by router; the truncated ellipse might be done by jig saw, and even if it is not pretty it doesn't matter much, as it will not be visible from the outside.
Then the plan is to glue the inner and outer layers together to form a 24-25mm baffle.
I am planning to a compact stand-mount speaker with 1 mid-bass and a tweeter.