Edcor PC 600 / 15K
And the Toroidal Transformer is 500VA 2x115V -> 2x18V / 1x36V ; Sedlbauer, RSO-825059
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Use steel band to shield the toroid, and MuMetal foil from McMaster-Carr for
the small transformers. I used an L shaped about 3" x 4" glue to the top
with the short bend at about 1" facing amp interior. Works pretty good.
Or buy shielded transformers.
the small transformers. I used an L shaped about 3" x 4" glue to the top
with the short bend at about 1" facing amp interior. Works pretty good.
Or buy shielded transformers.
Thank you all for the suggestions
A friend noted and twisted my arm saying that I have not tried removing the toroidal out of the chassis as a few DIY members have suggested
So today I bit the bullet and tried without much expectation
The test results were actually successful and the hum is gone - so I have egg in my face for being lazy
So I have two options now available to me
Looking at it logically
If I get another toroidal with a GOSS band and place it inside the same chassis the hum problem may still be there
If I get another chassis it will probably cost little more over a replacement toroidal and a little extra cost to fit a the simple plug and socket hookup system of the two units
Best thing is that the weight will be a lot better and shared over two chassis and the power supply can also be moved / housed separately with the toroidal
It's also possible that I can also add a second toroidal if I so choose to go overkill
I will look at the DIY shop for a chassis to suit in size my 5U Deluxe
Does anyone have an alternative opinion
And ideas of electrically safe plug/socket solutions to join the 2 units together
FR
A friend noted and twisted my arm saying that I have not tried removing the toroidal out of the chassis as a few DIY members have suggested
So today I bit the bullet and tried without much expectation
The test results were actually successful and the hum is gone - so I have egg in my face for being lazy
So I have two options now available to me
Looking at it logically
If I get another toroidal with a GOSS band and place it inside the same chassis the hum problem may still be there
If I get another chassis it will probably cost little more over a replacement toroidal and a little extra cost to fit a the simple plug and socket hookup system of the two units
Best thing is that the weight will be a lot better and shared over two chassis and the power supply can also be moved / housed separately with the toroidal
It's also possible that I can also add a second toroidal if I so choose to go overkill
I will look at the DIY shop for a chassis to suit in size my 5U Deluxe
Does anyone have an alternative opinion
And ideas of electrically safe plug/socket solutions to join the 2 units together
FR
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check the links in Gadut's signature
I think he uses Neutrik PowerCON plugs. They have three phases and I am not sure how gadut went about an earth connection of the amp's chassis.
The diystore chassis come from Hi-Fi 2000. They have other nice enclosures and ship down under. You could also consider to hide the PSU behind furniture and then any ole box might do.
I think he uses Neutrik PowerCON plugs. They have three phases and I am not sure how gadut went about an earth connection of the amp's chassis.
The diystore chassis come from Hi-Fi 2000. They have other nice enclosures and ship down under. You could also consider to hide the PSU behind furniture and then any ole box might do.
I told you 😀 😛
why do you want to buy 5U Deluxe chassis if only to store your psu? the heatsink will be useless and expensive. My teak wood chassis cost me less than $40. it is 45x40x16cm with 15mm thickness, and additional aluminum bottom plate.
@ElFishi
you reply when I type 😀 yes I'm using Neutrik PowerCon and connection to earth is only at the psu box using CL6 on each line. while amplifier chassis is not connected anywhere
why do you want to buy 5U Deluxe chassis if only to store your psu? the heatsink will be useless and expensive. My teak wood chassis cost me less than $40. it is 45x40x16cm with 15mm thickness, and additional aluminum bottom plate.
@ElFishi
you reply when I type 😀 yes I'm using Neutrik PowerCon and connection to earth is only at the psu box using CL6 on each line. while amplifier chassis is not connected anywhere
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Thank you I will check them out
Yes you did tell me so - And thank you along with others for doing so
Regarding the power supply chassis, I just want the 2 units to match each other
Because the amp is built into a 5U Deluxe chassis Its best to be looking for something similar looks in a - non heatsink chassis -
You ask - Why did I use a 5U chassis in the first place
I live in a subtropical location where in summer one can fry eggs on the road
FR
I had same thought with you too,I also bought 2 identical chassis but later I think that the real chassis should be for amplifier. Hence I end up with several FW clone, but still 2 chassis are not enough.
Where I live there is no summer or winter, only rainy or dry season, 32°C & 70% humidity on daylight but 4U is still adequate.
Where I live there is no summer or winter, only rainy or dry season, 32°C & 70% humidity on daylight but 4U is still adequate.
Yep we both live in hot places alright
Pesante 3U upgraded to similar width / depth dimensions to the 5U looks like a good match
Pesante 3U – diyAudio Store
Put the PS and transformer in another case. Always best but not as practical for most. Best and lowest cost alternative to solving your problem. Glad you found the problem Full Range.
Hi FR,
Happy to hear you have identified the cause. I want to follow up on
Elfishi's comment about putting the PSU behind furniture. The physical
distance between the toroidal transformer and your amplifier circuit
is what made it quiet, so I would suggest some flexible in their
placement and not necessarily plan to stack them on top of each other.
Cheers,
Dennis
Happy to hear you have identified the cause. I want to follow up on
Elfishi's comment about putting the PSU behind furniture. The physical
distance between the toroidal transformer and your amplifier circuit
is what made it quiet, so I would suggest some flexible in their
placement and not necessarily plan to stack them on top of each other.
Cheers,
Dennis
Many Audiodiyrs who build a first Pass amp will go on to build another. If, rather than build a single enclosure amp with internal power supply, you build an external power supply you will have many advantages once you have bitten the bullet.
1)...Building in a case of adequate sizes gives the opportunity to convert to a dual mono supply at a later date/when money becomes available
2)...It also means that you can build another amp at far lower cost than one with a new supply; a good power supply costs a lot of money to build
3)...Further; the amps themselves can be built substantially lighter, and the solo supply may be useful for other applications.
Anyway - this is the route I have chosen.
🙂
1)...Building in a case of adequate sizes gives the opportunity to convert to a dual mono supply at a later date/when money becomes available
2)...It also means that you can build another amp at far lower cost than one with a new supply; a good power supply costs a lot of money to build
3)...Further; the amps themselves can be built substantially lighter, and the solo supply may be useful for other applications.
Anyway - this is the route I have chosen.
🙂
And thanks with your support via email when it was required It helped me to get to this point
I will still swap over the JFets to give theM2 a little more muscle as time permits And plan a two box system over the next few weeks
I will take that advise under consideration as it makes perfect sense
Yep I know the feeling of new amp builds
My First Watt Amp journey started with an F5 to F6 to the current M2
With my eyes looking to the future ( Possibly an F7 ) its makes perfect sense
FR
well , you already have best Paesano* FW amp
*means - excluding SIT amps
Amen to that ZM
though , no reason to stop building , for fun
every house needs proper Class A amp in each room , garage and loo included
every house needs proper Class A amp in each room , garage and loo included
though , no reason to stop building , for fun
every house needs proper Class A amp in each room , garage and loo included
Yup!
Russellc
Not enough room in the hall loo! I'd never get a M2 + Ps + TT + computer/CD drive + DAC + OBs + Woofers + record collection in there! It also has the most dreadful accoustics (acc.to rest of the household! 😉)
