I have built the Frugel-Horn XL with a 10p and it is amazing. May be more of an improvement than the Pensil with an MAOP.
Last edited by a moderator:
I've read countless positive reviews on the Frugel-Horn XL Alpair 10p but find the build a bit challenging due to, for lack of a better description, the curve sides/back. I might be able to cut it with a jig saw but afraid that it would not turn out nice.
Does the baffle need to be tilted? Hence a difficult build, compared to the Pensil, if you do not have the proper tools.
Does the baffle need to be tilted? Hence a difficult build, compared to the Pensil, if you do not have the proper tools.
Last edited:
The first prototype builds of FH3 were made with a 1/2” MDF pattern rough cut with jig saw, then sanded on spindle sander to finished line. The first part of that process was repeated for the actual cabinet sides, then the pattern was clamped in place and routed with pattern following bit.
Frankly, I spent more time fiddling with methods to ensure a sturdy airtight joint at the tip of the apex, and settled on a scarfed joint on the rear panel cut on table saw with the aid of tenoning jig. I also used a small tapered glue block at the tip to provide lots of glue surface area, and with a pair of pinch clamps made for easy assembly.
Frankly, I spent more time fiddling with methods to ensure a sturdy airtight joint at the tip of the apex, and settled on a scarfed joint on the rear panel cut on table saw with the aid of tenoning jig. I also used a small tapered glue block at the tip to provide lots of glue surface area, and with a pair of pinch clamps made for easy assembly.
The FH3 plans have a good description of how to derive the rear curve if you do not have a cnc. it nay have more, including some ictures maybe, of that particular approach.
fh3 planset may be downloaded from https://frugal-horn.com/fh3-plans.html
dave
fh3 planset may be downloaded from https://frugal-horn.com/fh3-plans.html
dave
I agree, but what I meant is the curve is a compromised approximation to an exponential or cathenoid horn section anyway so accuracy not supercritical. Or is that heresy?
Also, I tried to find the original development thread but couldn’t. Do you have a link to it? Just really interested in the development discussion.
Keep well
Also, I tried to find the original development thread but couldn’t. Do you have a link to it? Just really interested in the development discussion.
Keep well
I haven't kept up with developments, but since getting a pair of base model CHN-50s, which I'm really happy with, I noticed the spiderless versions.
I'm wondering if part of the 'trick' is the field strength working like a bearing, keeping the coil centred? The speakers I built have the option of placing the mid-tweeters at different angles. My thinking is that there's got to be some active mechanism like increased field lines closer to the pole pieces, basically repelling the coil and preventing it from buckling off to the side.
I'm wondering if part of the 'trick' is the field strength working like a bearing, keeping the coil centred? The speakers I built have the option of placing the mid-tweeters at different angles. My thinking is that there's got to be some active mechanism like increased field lines closer to the pole pieces, basically repelling the coil and preventing it from buckling off to the side.
MonoSuspension is a careful balance of everything, including moving the average placement of the cone/coil mass moved closer to the front surround, and the job of that suspension much more critical.
The original A5 was also spiderless, but used ferrofluid to help keep things centred. New Euro lae nixed that, and Mark worked for years before getting the A5.2 right and from that learning the A7/11ms evolved.
dave
The original A5 was also spiderless, but used ferrofluid to help keep things centred. New Euro lae nixed that, and Mark worked for years before getting the A5.2 right and from that learning the A7/11ms evolved.
dave
Good Morning Dave! - Disaster! A lightning strike took out a power supply, which cascaded to DC on the P7HD's for an extended time - till I got home. Still make sounds - but not good sounds. Any progress on these or should I be going to madisound? Thanks MG
Looking for some advice, we are changing the speakers we are using in the bar which currently are x4 Alpair 7.3's in sealed boxes. I am keen to switch to a more analogue 2 channel set up, with a pair of bookshelf/monitor speakers sitting on the bar facing the tables rather than the omni spread of having one in each corner as we currently have.
The plan is to only play vinyl when customers are in, so the speakers can be on the warm side rather than analytical. A sub is optional.
I have a whole host of drivers available, and was planning on using a two P7HD's per side in the studio arrangement, but wondering if a small line array, or perhaps a 12p.
Any thoughts or suggestions?
The plan is to only play vinyl when customers are in, so the speakers can be on the warm side rather than analytical. A sub is optional.
I have a whole host of drivers available, and was planning on using a two P7HD's per side in the studio arrangement, but wondering if a small line array, or perhaps a 12p.
Any thoughts or suggestions?