I've come up with some dimensions for a cabinet,It puts the fonken driver at 970mm Cl off floor. The internal volume equals the same as Vas of the driver, is this the correct approach?
I put my speakers up to the 970 centres last night and had a bit of a listen, all sounds good.
With the driver firing side ways, does it matter if it faces inwards or outwards and what would be a good centre height?
I was wondering if the driver centres are the critical factor?
I have done a drawing in sketch up, using windows.
I will attempt to upload.
Not having much joy uploading the drawing , I think I need to change the format.
Lindsay.
I put my speakers up to the 970 centres last night and had a bit of a listen, all sounds good.
With the driver firing side ways, does it matter if it faces inwards or outwards and what would be a good centre height?
I was wondering if the driver centres are the critical factor?
I have done a drawing in sketch up, using windows.
I will attempt to upload.
Not having much joy uploading the drawing , I think I need to change the format.
Lindsay.
I finished building a FE127E Fonken
After first 3 days of running I find the sound to be still very bright, harsh and with very pronounced sibilance.
Please give your thoughts on what could be the main issue:
- acoustic dampening - I used 8mm felt on both sides
- need for a BSC filter - if so, what value should I consider for baffle with?
Thank you
Titi
After first 3 days of running I find the sound to be still very bright, harsh and with very pronounced sibilance.
Please give your thoughts on what could be the main issue:
- acoustic dampening - I used 8mm felt on both sides
- need for a BSC filter - if so, what value should I consider for baffle with?
Thank you
Titi
3 days continuously? You need to get a get 100+ hours on the drivers at decent listening levels before doing any serious evaluation.
What kind of amplifier?
dave
What kind of amplifier?
dave
Let say 20 hours
It is unexpected to me because I built also Mileva with the same type of drivers and there was not such issue from the first hours
As amplifiers I used Dayen's Ampino, a small 25W x 2 SS amplifier and HK-680. I will get next week a SE, MiniWatt.
It is unexpected to me because I built also Mileva with the same type of drivers and there was not such issue from the first hours
As amplifiers I used Dayen's Ampino, a small 25W x 2 SS amplifier and HK-680. I will get next week a SE, MiniWatt.
a few thoughts
-felt damping might have been a bit light - we use 1/2" on all 6 internal panels (careful to not occlude the internal slot openings), as well as thinner layer on one side of the driver brace
- driver of break-in of several hundred hours will tame the tonal balance somewhat
- to elaborate on Dave's question - what type of source/ amp? low damping factor tube amps have always been my personal choice with virtually any FE126 or FE127 system. if a higher powered SS / digital amp (OK, most any class T amp is higher powered than a 3w DHT), you could play with some series R, or very thin gauge speaker wire to fudge around with the DF
- as to BSC, I've famously avoided them, but if you decide to go that route, I'd suggest you include the amp in your calculus - i.e. "season the soup" by taste (what you actually here) rather than a fixed math calculation
- of course, as a last resort (gonna catch flak for that?) you could always try line level EQ
-felt damping might have been a bit light - we use 1/2" on all 6 internal panels (careful to not occlude the internal slot openings), as well as thinner layer on one side of the driver brace
- driver of break-in of several hundred hours will tame the tonal balance somewhat
- to elaborate on Dave's question - what type of source/ amp? low damping factor tube amps have always been my personal choice with virtually any FE126 or FE127 system. if a higher powered SS / digital amp (OK, most any class T amp is higher powered than a 3w DHT), you could play with some series R, or very thin gauge speaker wire to fudge around with the DF
- as to BSC, I've famously avoided them, but if you decide to go that route, I'd suggest you include the amp in your calculus - i.e. "season the soup" by taste (what you actually here) rather than a fixed math calculation
- of course, as a last resort (gonna catch flak for that?) you could always try line level EQ
always confused as to why this is a "bad" idea. For goodness sakes, if it sounds better to the end user, it is better. Besides those dinky little speakers almost beg for it. 😉
FWIW: I built a pair of FE127e Fonkens two years ago. The sound is fabulous, and has improved with time.
I run them on a Sansui 4000 receiver (1972 vintage SS) and use BSC of 5 ohms and 1 mH inductor. I wouldn't like the sound of them w/o BSC. But a different amp and a different room could drastically change that.
Cheers, Jim
I run them on a Sansui 4000 receiver (1972 vintage SS) and use BSC of 5 ohms and 1 mH inductor. I wouldn't like the sound of them w/o BSC. But a different amp and a different room could drastically change that.
Cheers, Jim
Make sure you do not block the internal openings to the side vents - get your hand or someone elses right into the back and make sure its clear and free of any of the wadding.
Fran
Fran
Good development with the sound
I added some dampening material - out of felt I used some white synthetic fluffy stuff 🙂 that I used in the past for stuffing TL
First added on both sides and it sounded very restrained, then removed the additional material from the narrow part and nice sound come out of them; no more harsh bright sound (some sibilances still there, but very discrete).
It shines on classical music, female vocals, jazz and folk. For heavy metals I still preffer my Kef iQ7, but that's different caliber, floorstander 3-way...
What can I say...great design, great driver
I added some dampening material - out of felt I used some white synthetic fluffy stuff 🙂 that I used in the past for stuffing TL
First added on both sides and it sounded very restrained, then removed the additional material from the narrow part and nice sound come out of them; no more harsh bright sound (some sibilances still there, but very discrete).
It shines on classical music, female vocals, jazz and folk. For heavy metals I still preffer my Kef iQ7, but that's different caliber, floorstander 3-way...
What can I say...great design, great driver
wiring
I have been looking to build a set of miniOnken for the last four years but I still dont have a glue how to wire them.They say their is no crossover so are they wired from speaker to terminal plate?
I have been looking to build a set of miniOnken for the last four years but I still dont have a glue how to wire them.They say their is no crossover so are they wired from speaker to terminal plate?
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FYI - I had a similar experience with my own designed Onkens. They were bright and harsh. They changed significantly during the first few hours and improved greatly. Once they had settled down I still found them unsatisfactory, too bright.
I tried the tri-foil + damar cone treatment. This helped a bit, but it didn't make enough of a difference. The 127 driver has this nasty resonance in the treble that just causes me fatigue. In the end I did apply BSC and this fixed the problem:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/138195-my-moon-onken-7.html
Recently I've built a tube amplifier and I'll be trying this out with my Onken's to see if I should revisit the BSC...
I tried the tri-foil + damar cone treatment. This helped a bit, but it didn't make enough of a difference. The 127 driver has this nasty resonance in the treble that just causes me fatigue. In the end I did apply BSC and this fixed the problem:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/138195-my-moon-onken-7.html
Recently I've built a tube amplifier and I'll be trying this out with my Onken's to see if I should revisit the BSC...
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Jumping from page 1 to page 32.
Well. I have a question to the guy who made these ones.
Is it really that important to screw it so much from the inside? As shown in the 2nd or 3rd post of this thread (i don't remember).
How did you do with the removable back?
I must say they look really good! Better than my Mar-Kel70's (in particle-board though....)
Well. I have a question to the guy who made these ones.
Is it really that important to screw it so much from the inside? As shown in the 2nd or 3rd post of this thread (i don't remember).
How did you do with the removable back?
I must say they look really good! Better than my Mar-Kel70's (in particle-board though....)
I'm not that guy that built this particular pair, but could offer some observations:
It's not essential to screw the internal slot wall panels through the spacer blocks, but certainly speeds up assembly of what is not a single afternoon project. Note: if you plan to cut the large bevels after assembly, and plan to use screws or air-nailed brads on the side panels, be careful to keep them (metal fasteners) out of the path of saw blade 😱. A couple of brads won't do too much damage, but screws would be a different story.
a border of recessed cleats or glue blocks on the inside of the 4 panels, to which the back panel is screwed (note the pre-drilled holes in blocks as well as the driver brace)
It's not essential to screw the internal slot wall panels through the spacer blocks, but certainly speeds up assembly of what is not a single afternoon project. Note: if you plan to cut the large bevels after assembly, and plan to use screws or air-nailed brads on the side panels, be careful to keep them (metal fasteners) out of the path of saw blade 😱. A couple of brads won't do too much damage, but screws would be a different story.
I think the photo in post #2 gives a clue as to how the removable back was attached (and certainly the way I've done it myself):
a border of recessed cleats or glue blocks on the inside of the 4 panels, to which the back panel is screwed (note the pre-drilled holes in blocks as well as the driver brace)
sounds like you've got those running? - how do you like them?
Thanks for the answers chris 😀
Well, i also used screws but not that very many.
For mounting the baffle i calculated so i could use screws from bottom and from the front i used wooden plugs which got cut off by the sawblade but still has it's function.
If i will build those in birchply later on i will really do it with a removable baffle.
I haven't got them running yet. I've been angle-cutting the top pieces which *somebody* forgot... Well, not a problem really but quite funny. I've also been fixing with the braces so the driver fits a little better. Takes a lot of time but it's better to do it right from the start.
Hopefully they'll be up and running tomorrow, but i'm not sure. I haven't got any speaker terminals yet but i've ordered some from a swedish sort of diy site. Not cheap at all but cheaper than monacor.
I've just got the top/brace left to mount in/on/to the speaker. Then i gotta find some way of attaching cables or wait till i get my terminals :S
Well, i also used screws but not that very many.
For mounting the baffle i calculated so i could use screws from bottom and from the front i used wooden plugs which got cut off by the sawblade but still has it's function.
If i will build those in birchply later on i will really do it with a removable baffle.
I haven't got them running yet. I've been angle-cutting the top pieces which *somebody* forgot... Well, not a problem really but quite funny. I've also been fixing with the braces so the driver fits a little better. Takes a lot of time but it's better to do it right from the start.
Hopefully they'll be up and running tomorrow, but i'm not sure. I haven't got any speaker terminals yet but i've ordered some from a swedish sort of diy site. Not cheap at all but cheaper than monacor.
I've just got the top/brace left to mount in/on/to the speaker. Then i gotta find some way of attaching cables or wait till i get my terminals :S
I just ran the vent spacers right to the back, minus the back panel thickness. That gives you 4 blocks per side plus the center brace to screw/glue the back panel to.
jeff
I've also run my vent spacers to the back minus panel thicknes. But, the idea is to screw and glue? In that case i think i have a removable back atm (somewhat removable with some need of violence i guess).
The screws were only temporary, to hold the back panel on before final glue-up.
jeff