yes
A thin MDF frame, then we farm out the fixing of the doublenit cloth.
Held on with magnets so they are easily removed for serious listening.
dave
Attachments
Someone asked about bottom & top champhers, so Chris took the pair we had unfinished and did it.
dave
dave
Member
Joined 2002
Look's cool,
Could you go into detail about the bottom subwoofers ? What are they what driver ? Ported sealed ?
🙂
Member
Joined 2002
sorry for the incorrect word, bass drivers, they provide all the bass for the low end 🙂 witch is what i ment.
Any more information about them ? Id like to read about them maybe ( maybe ) build a set.
I'm also interested what would be the best solution to complement the low register for the Fonkens. Maybe a 6.5" woofer in a TL or Tapped Horn?
thanks
Highef
thanks
Highef
This set was a failed experiement that we modded enuff to make useable. Drivers are going to vcome out. more appropriate ones will go in, and we'll do something different in the same format.
dave
dave
The 2 SDX7 per side do quite well... and i know we can squeeze a bit more out of them. They are not cheap thou.
What you are looking for is a good midbass (1 or 2) that can fit into the box that forms the stand. They need to be well behaved up to at least 1 K or so. Without exceeding the Fonken footprint, you get a max volume of about 28 litre.
We will be playing with Silver Flute next, i suspect that some of the Visaton or Monacors you see over there would work fine.... and then there are also the myriad of scandinavian drivers to look at.
dave
from post #48
Um Dave does this mean that the plans on your site even though preliminary are not good to build??
Cause I already did, used 3/4" MDF but kept internal dimensions the same, now need to chamfer driver holes and put together. FF85 just waiting to be installed.
🙂
The plans for uFonken are just fine...
I'm creating a very comprehensive set of plans that i can ask a token for. The ones on the site are still valid, just that if you have to do things like changing material size, etc you have to do some thinking 🙂
dave
I'm creating a very comprehensive set of plans that i can ask a token for. The ones on the site are still valid, just that if you have to do things like changing material size, etc you have to do some thinking 🙂
dave
Dave,
The woofers of you last set-up picture, are active or passive? Do you filter them with a crossover? How do integrate them?
I was thinking about adding just one woofer (or sub) acting like a "sub-woofer" in a Tapped Horn enclosure and limit up to 70 - 100Hz and let the Fonken do the rest. I have already tested the fonken with my current TL sub-woofer and I liked the result.
thanks
Highef
The woofers of you last set-up picture, are active or passive? Do you filter them with a crossover? How do integrate them?
I was thinking about adding just one woofer (or sub) acting like a "sub-woofer" in a Tapped Horn enclosure and limit up to 70 - 100Hz and let the Fonken do the rest. I have already tested the fonken with my current TL sub-woofer and I liked the result.
thanks
Highef
I was really lucky the 1st time out, which slowed XO development down, but we are still playing. I had an old Ace Audio active XO, with 2nd order 100 Hz cross point. Modded a bit, it sounded WAY better than expected. I want to play with PLLXO similar to Tysen, and with both normal & buffered PLLXO based on the B1 concept.
When at its best, i'm using an SE tube amp on the top, and a 150W dual mono MOSFET amp on the bottom (it started out life as an OEM Hitachi built for Sears that had a net cost of -$400 (gotta love the price), then i let Daniel at it 🙂)
dave
dave
When at its best, i'm using an SE tube amp on the top, and a 150W dual mono MOSFET amp on the bottom (it started out life as an OEM Hitachi built for Sears that had a net cost of -$400 (gotta love the price), then i let Daniel at it 🙂)
dave
dave
New updates,
The drivers have already 60 hours of break-in and are playing much better.
I added more felt and cleaned up my room with a new unfinished pair of stands. I really like how they play! Extremely clear sound.
I tried to plug my cross-over in the system with an active 10" TL sub-woofer but it removed a little medium-low of the fonkens and I don't like it. I want to take advantage of as much range as possible of the speakers.
Do you suggest a cut-off freq. for the sub-woofer? Maybe 60 Hz? 70 Hz? (I will have to remake the XO circuit, the cut freq is no variable).
The fonkens do better now without the sub. If I put it the fonkens become sharp and bright and I feel like there is a hole in the medium-lows or something.
I will also do some positioning experiments. Any clue about it?
I look forward to do another 60 hours break-in process and also trifoil + EnaBL.
thanks!
Highef
The drivers have already 60 hours of break-in and are playing much better.
I added more felt and cleaned up my room with a new unfinished pair of stands. I really like how they play! Extremely clear sound.
I tried to plug my cross-over in the system with an active 10" TL sub-woofer but it removed a little medium-low of the fonkens and I don't like it. I want to take advantage of as much range as possible of the speakers.
Do you suggest a cut-off freq. for the sub-woofer? Maybe 60 Hz? 70 Hz? (I will have to remake the XO circuit, the cut freq is no variable).
The fonkens do better now without the sub. If I put it the fonkens become sharp and bright and I feel like there is a hole in the medium-lows or something.
I will also do some positioning experiments. Any clue about it?
I look forward to do another 60 hours break-in process and also trifoil + EnaBL.
thanks!
Highef
New updates,
The drivers have already 60 hours of break-in and are playing much better.
I added more felt and cleaned up my room with a new unfinished pair of stands. I really like how they play! Extremely clear sound.
I tried to plug my cross-over in the system with an active 10" TL sub-woofer but it removed a little medium-low of the fonkens and I don't like it. I want to take advantage of as much range as possible of the speakers.
Do you suggest a cut-off freq. for the sub-woofer? Maybe 60 Hz? 70 Hz? (I will have to remake the XO circuit, the cut freq is no variable).
The fonkens do better now without the sub. If I put it the fonkens become sharp and bright and I feel like there is a hole in the medium-lows or something.
I will also do some positioning experiments. Any clue about it?
I look forward to do another 60 hours break-in process and also trifoil + EnaBL.
thanks!
Highef
If you were running the FE127 on the HP output of XO, perhaps some of the harshness you heard was simply the sound of the XO itself? I guess the only way to test that hypothesis would be to fabricate a quick PLLXO at the same nominal value and see if it sounds more transparent.
XO of anywhere between 60-80 seems about right as a starting point for dialing in.
Judging from your photo, there appears to be a large piece of furniture and a window (to possibly a studio or is that outdoors?) on the right hand side of the room. That combination could well be biasing the reflective / diffractive characteristics of the room. Among other things, perhaps the mains could be pulled in a little closer to the center and experiment with toe-in, and try some pleated curtains or fabric blinds on the window.
The open wooden stands look like they could use some ballast for stability and perhaps mass damping or bracing for reduction of panel resonances.
I'm currently reading Floyd Toole's book on Loudspeakers and Rooms, and he has some interesting observations regarding treatment of front, rear and side wall reflection points. (as in lots on the first, some on the primary reflection point of the second, and perhaps less on the latter, particularly at the primary reflection points)
I made some changes to my system and now I have advanced more steps to the point I aim.
The fonkens have more than 100 hours playing and, wow, they play a bass I never thought they would! I almost didn't miss my subwoofer.
I really don't want anything between my power amplifier and the fonkens, but I still want that little small low frequency range to extend, with class, some demanding recordings.
I made 2 diagrams to explain the simple mod I made to the circuit:
BEFORE: The tube amplifier was receiving the HF output of the crossover, it means that the bass was being filtered out (I suspect also that some HF distortion was being introduced). This cut-off frequency is fixed and was removing some important information that I wanted. The LF output feeds a solid state amplifier. This specific LF output is more flexible. I can control the level and also the lowpass cut.
AFTER: I just used a simple RCA splitter and fed the tube amplified directly from the pre amp output. From the splitter I fed also the subwoofer amplifier. This way I have full fonkens playing and I can control de gain and cut and set it just in the low register needed. I was concerned about using the splitter because of hanging 2 devices in the pre amp output. I don't have the input impedance values of my powers but I think they are high enough. I made lots of tests and didn't hear difference of the fonkens performace specifically for each case.
I just need to find the optimal point for the subwoofer and I will have everything I need.
What do you think?
thanks
Highef
The fonkens have more than 100 hours playing and, wow, they play a bass I never thought they would! I almost didn't miss my subwoofer.
I really don't want anything between my power amplifier and the fonkens, but I still want that little small low frequency range to extend, with class, some demanding recordings.
I made 2 diagrams to explain the simple mod I made to the circuit:
BEFORE: The tube amplifier was receiving the HF output of the crossover, it means that the bass was being filtered out (I suspect also that some HF distortion was being introduced). This cut-off frequency is fixed and was removing some important information that I wanted. The LF output feeds a solid state amplifier. This specific LF output is more flexible. I can control the level and also the lowpass cut.
AFTER: I just used a simple RCA splitter and fed the tube amplified directly from the pre amp output. From the splitter I fed also the subwoofer amplifier. This way I have full fonkens playing and I can control de gain and cut and set it just in the low register needed. I was concerned about using the splitter because of hanging 2 devices in the pre amp output. I don't have the input impedance values of my powers but I think they are high enough. I made lots of tests and didn't hear difference of the fonkens performace specifically for each case.
I just need to find the optimal point for the subwoofer and I will have everything I need.
What do you think?
thanks
Highef
If you feel that giving the fonken some bass relief, a single cap in series with the tube amp input will give a 1st order roll-off with no extra electronics. Use the RC time constant (with R = input impedance of your amp) to calculate the XO point. The intrepid would actually go in and shrinkl the size of the coupling cap and introduce no extra parts into the circuit (assumes no global feedback loop)
dave
dave
If you want to play louder.
Also i expect you would get some benefit in the midrange... it has to be done very transparently. Especially after you treat them, they are incrediably capable downward dynamic range wise.
dave
Also i expect you would get some benefit in the midrange... it has to be done very transparently. Especially after you treat them, they are incrediably capable downward dynamic range wise.
dave