Wow that was high, did you "soften them up" before measuring?
Mine changed a bit for the first couple of weeks (helped a lot to pound them hard in OB with some EQ to get enough bass), the Fane drivers seem a bit stiff when new.
Anyway, thanks for posting Chris.
Mine changed a bit for the first couple of weeks (helped a lot to pound them hard in OB with some EQ to get enough bass), the Fane drivers seem a bit stiff when new.
Anyway, thanks for posting Chris.
They didn't have much break-in, no.
I don't really have the space to give them any pain at the moment. That situation is improving, though.
I would've thought that the BL (or Qes) change would still be apparent, but it wasn't the case here. Perhaps the other forum member that tried it used more powerful magnets, or their driver's ferrite was a different grade, etc etc. Lots of possible reasons why it didn't work here, so I've not ruled it out completely, but it's going on the back burner for a while.
Chris
Normally I'd be very hesitant to use low freq sine to speed up break-in, but it's almost mandatory for the FC152. Mix of 16hz+70hz ought to do it pretty good. Or maybe just suspend it with steel wire and eq it till you hear the bass nicely, put on some background tunes for a week or two, before measuring again.
It's been a bad driver and needs some punishment. ;-)
It's been a bad driver and needs some punishment. ;-)
I have mine just playing music and HT at living room levels. Sound doesn't seem to change anymore. Which is hardly science, but anyway. 🙂
What are you using for bass Ivo?
Are you using an active solution for eq, passive components/foam etc, or is it vanilla style?
Are you using an active solution for eq, passive components/foam etc, or is it vanilla style?
I have them in my backloaded horns, they are a kind of BIB variation. I drive them with a Marantz NR1603 slimline AVR with Audyssey MultiEQ auto-equalization. No foam or other driver tweaks.
In-room response -3dB is below 20 Hz before EQ. I can hardly feel the cones move. Presence or absence of bass does not seem to affect mid/high performance at all. I really don't miss subwoofers or feel I should unstrain the Fanes.
I feel the community is slow to recognize the driver for what it is. It's one of the best fullrange drivers available in its price range. More people should be building cool speakers with it.
I used BIB design rules for proportions for a simple and reliable design procedure. I think it would look better if it would back up a bit more, and I really like the look of the Jensen Imperial corner horn. So I am slowly working on a redesign in that style, wider and shallower, angled rear corners etc. But I want to get it right and use good materials, so nobody.hold their breath.
We are most definitely not trying to keep it to ourselves.
It is probably the cheapest way to go "too loud" using only a single driver and still have a certain degree of sound quality.
bknop, are you running sans filter? What mods are you planning?
I really like them.
But it is important to remember that there is no magic solution for anything, they can not do magic, neither does any other speaker I have ever heard.
It is probably the cheapest way to go "too loud" using only a single driver and still have a certain degree of sound quality.
bknop, are you running sans filter? What mods are you planning?
I really like them.
But it is important to remember that there is no magic solution for anything, they can not do magic, neither does any other speaker I have ever heard.
True, but the various applications we are seeing are not larger than your random paper fullranger in a FAST, backloaded horn, TL, open baffle etc. It does many of the same things right, with much more powerhandling. People who start with a tangband 3" and then go "all the way" with a 6", well... I think they'd be happy to know there's an e=m*c^2 option. ;-)
It seems very flexible so far. And cheap.
An added bonus is that the cables are easy to hide away.
An added bonus is that the cables are easy to hide away.
Kaffimann, the bottom woofer has a 15mh coil (Erse super q). For the top two, I've been messing around with both series and parallel crossover types. For series operation there is a. 68 uf cap and about 70 ohms Aresistance across the mcm woofer terminals. I may try putting a large coil like 10 - 15 mh across the Fane to reduce cone excursion if I want to play them at near concert level volume. Changing the resistance is a great way to adjust the mids. For the parallel crossover, the middle MCM gets a .68mh coil, the Fane gets a 2.25 mh coil. A .68 uf cap and about a 14 ohm resistor in parallel with the 2.25 mh coil, the bottom woofer a 15 mh coil. These values are aproximate as I have not finalized the design.
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I use mine with a USB port powered PC USB DAC.
Probably about a watt and plenty loud enough for my living room.
Probably about a watt and plenty loud enough for my living room.
Anyone using this driver with a low wattage tube amp? Just wondering if the sensitivity spec of 99Db is accurate?
EDIT: Should have done a search before posting. I see several users reporting good results with low power tube amps. Anyone using a 45 amp?
EDIT: Should have done a search before posting. I see several users reporting good results with low power tube amps. Anyone using a 45 amp?
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I have used both 12" and 15" in Open baffle with tube power only, with exceptional results. I prefer 12" over 15" as the latter has brighter midrange for my ears but 15" has much better HF dispersion compared to 12".
Tube amps I have used are Dynaco ST 35, 17wpc, EL34 SE 7 wpc, and Tube 45 SE 1.5 wpc. No problems with any of these amps. They sound like home Hi-Fi drivers and will put shame to many name and pricey brands. In fact they are made for tube amps, I would say.
Hi, what kind of bass are you getting from your open baffles and what size are they? I got some of the 15" but haven't got my baffles yet.
I have a small sub that goes up to 120hz so I'm not looking to go below 120hz for the open baffles, thanks.