These resistors are also available directly from the manufacturer. Here is a link to the audio types and their datasheets. Why not specify the actual part number? That will leave no question as to lead spacing option and type. Several thru-hole flavors are available, i.e., VAR, TX2575, TX2352.
BK
BOM Released
BOM have been released, on the opening post you will find updated links for Mouser Shared Projects.
First some operative info on the new BOM:
Susumus are really good sounding resistors that gives 85% of bulk metals sound at a fraction of the price but have a warmer signature.
RN55s are better sounding (90% bulk metals), fuller and more neutral but still warmer than bulk metals.
Previous BOMs balanced that signature with carbon films and Caddocks in strategical positions in signal path (R10, R11, R13) and on the regulator (R101, R201, R104, R204).
It mostly worked but there was a loss of detail.
New BOM balances that signature, already reduced by RN55s, with more neutral caps in C1, C2 and C9 retainig full detail and harmonic richness.
Nevertheless the new BOM is sligthly warmer (but much more balanced and detailed) than previous ones.
Most of the work of these last weeks was the quest for the most neutral combination and included a lot of SMD and TH parts (and money
) re-evaluating also Susumus for a more neutral but not less good sounding resistor.
As always a BOM is give-and-take and I think the result is IMHO very good sounding, now I will explore some alternatives not available from Mouser to further refine it.
At the end Susumus are still here, PTF56 are gone (fantastic but with a strange and annoying 'milky' signature that lead me to discard them, same for MBB0207), RLR07 are still under evalution (no milky sound, colder than bulk metals, not available from Mouser).
BOM have been released, on the opening post you will find updated links for Mouser Shared Projects.
First some operative info on the new BOM:
- cost is lower (20€ less for kit )
- it sound better than previous ones
- There is no more the 'On a budget BOM'
- There are still 2 lower cost options than will not sacrifice too much performance
- it includes, as an option, the My_Evo Rev A mod, which is applicable to the FE too, it measure and sounds a bit better and costs a bit less.
- C1, C2 (LM3886 decoupling) now are Nichicon PW more neutral than all previous suggested caps.
- All suggested signal resistors outside of the composite opamp are now Vishay Dale RN55, more neutral and rich than Susumus.
- Also regulator's resistors are now Vishay Dale RN55
- C9 (DC filter for the composite opamp) is now a Nichicon KZ, its timbre is very similar to Black Gates and not much less clean, a very good and pretty universal alternative
- KZ take some tens of hours before sounding balanced, I never waited in the past and it was discarded for this reason... my fault.
- in C9 also Cerafines (50V minimum) and Silmics II Black/Gold will sound fine but less universal, I would call Cerafine a Rock cap and Silmics are more suited to whom likes a very smooth sound.
- If you have Black Gates or can find them cheap use them, otherwise use the new cap, it will sound fantastic and not too distant.
- C21 (C9 bypass) is no longer part of the BOM, with the suggested cap for C9 and their alternates it will stole coherence and it's very difficult to select one that will sound really perfect.
Susumus are really good sounding resistors that gives 85% of bulk metals sound at a fraction of the price but have a warmer signature.
RN55s are better sounding (90% bulk metals), fuller and more neutral but still warmer than bulk metals.
Previous BOMs balanced that signature with carbon films and Caddocks in strategical positions in signal path (R10, R11, R13) and on the regulator (R101, R201, R104, R204).
It mostly worked but there was a loss of detail.
New BOM balances that signature, already reduced by RN55s, with more neutral caps in C1, C2 and C9 retainig full detail and harmonic richness.
Nevertheless the new BOM is sligthly warmer (but much more balanced and detailed) than previous ones.
Most of the work of these last weeks was the quest for the most neutral combination and included a lot of SMD and TH parts (and money
) re-evaluating also Susumus for a more neutral but not less good sounding resistor.As always a BOM is give-and-take and I think the result is IMHO very good sounding, now I will explore some alternatives not available from Mouser to further refine it.
At the end Susumus are still here, PTF56 are gone (fantastic but with a strange and annoying 'milky' signature that lead me to discard them, same for MBB0207), RLR07 are still under evalution (no milky sound, colder than bulk metals, not available from Mouser).
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Boards from the 7th GB. Populated 90% yesterday by coincidence, so will make a few changes based on the current recommendations. E.g., RN55 for R12, R13, R104, R204 and Nichicon for C1, C2, C9. Parts already ordered. Appreciate the work Dario puts into this. I have high expectations for this build!
BK
BK
Attachments
Nice selection
But you should have posted it on the build thread.
Thanks, let us know your impression on build thread
In the opening post there are several links for Mouser shared projects:
It has nothing to do with sound quality...
BOMs without SMD are for partecipants that bought PCBs with SMD parts soldered.
You have bought the bare PCBs so you will need the complete BOM.
Great! Thank you.
Another question, do we need a DC Filter?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/2080-dc-filter-4.html
Another question, do we need a DC Filter?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/2080-dc-filter-4.html
wow, great work!
Just a question: Evo A mod is just a matter of components? I'd try that...
Yes, it is.
The complete My_Evo Rev A mod includes also other variations on the original My_Evo like the grounding of the LM3886 to PGND instead of AGND (already part of the FE) and mods to the DC Servo that are not relevant to the FE.
You're welcome.
In general you won't need a DC filter unless your AC power has a DC component, pretty rare I would say.
Interesting...
Yes LZX are much more transparent than FMs or RJHs but they're in fact warmer on the midrange.
But when I've tried them for the first time with the original BOM they seemed colder than other caps, which was a good thing to some extent.
Only after balancing the other components the warmer signature came out on the My_Ref.
I noticed that warmer signature before, when modding my iRDAC and finding them warmer than Cerafines...
Nichicon PW sound signature is pretty similar to KZ's and BlackGate's one so fuller and more balanced over the entire spectrum with a tiny hint of bass increase.
But they're harmonically drier than KZs and Blackgate, I suppose for the magnetic leads, so they're perfect for C1, C2 where we need low ESR and low impedance but not for C9.
Not exactly... I've compared each cap on C9 Vs C9 replaced by a plain wire (don't do it other than for experiment, DC offest rises over 250mV!!!).
In this context LXZ are warmer with a bit shy bass than the plain wire and PW pretty flat with a slight bump on bass frequencies.
The combination of all parts can give though a different effect, which BOM are you using?
Can you post a pic of one of your modules?
I've not bought/biult the My-ref yet, I've only recently found out about it. I'll be adding my name to the next group buy. Until then I'm still modding my DAC and amp (Naim clone).
I'm really pleased with the LXZs by the way, prefer them to most others, apart from BGs. PWs sound interesting, and I plan to try the KWs too at some point.
Ah! Now it's more clear
BTW
At the time I've made the comparison the LM3886's decoupling caps were the LZX.
This evening I've tried again (PW as decoupling) and they sound colder than reference... different combinations different results
They're still excellent caps but since have that midrange coloration they must merge well with other parts.
I wouldn't bother about KW, they have sloppy bass.
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