Thank you Dario for your answer.
For the parts, I will follow the suggested best parts of your BOM except for the components below where I will use your alternative parts:
- C9: not easy to find Black Gate FK, I think to use Black gate STD
- R12 & R37: no RG32 at Mouser, I think to use RG20
- R39: no RG32 at Mouser, I think to use RG20
- R43: no RG32 at Mouser, I think to use RG20
For R13, R104 & R204, I will use MK132 and not MK132V
Is it ok for you?
For the parts, I will follow the suggested best parts of your BOM except for the components below where I will use your alternative parts:
- C9: not easy to find Black Gate FK, I think to use Black gate STD
- R12 & R37: no RG32 at Mouser, I think to use RG20
- R39: no RG32 at Mouser, I think to use RG20
- R43: no RG32 at Mouser, I think to use RG20
For R13, R104 & R204, I will use MK132 and not MK132V
Is it ok for you?
Hello,
The difference between MK132 and MK132V is the stand-off option for MK132V . If I understand a stand-off is just a spacer between the PCB and the component, and it is not critical for the assembly.
Is it right?
Thank you.
The difference between MK132 and MK132V is the stand-off option for MK132V . If I understand a stand-off is just a spacer between the PCB and the component, and it is not critical for the assembly.
Is it right?
Thank you.
The way that I read the datasheet, you are correct. Should be no difference except the standoff. In fact, I had not recognized the difference and have built my FE amps using MK132V with good results. Perhaps Dario will have found some difference, but I'm very happy with my amps using the 'V' spec Caddocks.
I hope this helps.
Jac
You're welcome 🙂
Nice choice.
Take in account that with new boards you can use the C21 bypass and a Silmic II (black version) with 22nF Wima FKP2 bypass will sound pretty good, almost as good as a Blackgate FK.
In the BOM they're already RG20 for the lack of availability of 1206 counterparts.
In the BOM they're RG20 from the start.
No difference soundwise, same part, different packaging.
The price difference between Silmic II and Black Gate is very interesting! Maybe it is better to take Silmic II if the sound is close to a Black Gate .
Just take care of ordering Silmics II with black sleeve and gold lettering, the brown/white ones you can find from Mouser, PCX or HiFi Collective doesn't sound right, something wrong with medium frequencies.
You can usually get them from asian sellers on eBay.
Since you live in France, you're lucky:
RS Components code 2509014705
😉
You can absolutely use the KOAs, they're already indicated on the 'On a budget' BOM.
Rather than of quality in this case, as per R13, I would say temperament, nature (I hope the therm is appropriate).
In fact the KOAs are probably more neutral in that position while the Caddocks have more punch, bass and make the sound a bit fuller.
Caddocks in the correct direction are way too coloured, dark and thick, while in the reverse one they're far more neutral but retain also the downsides of the 'wrong' direction, they sound impulsive, nervous.
The same apply for R13 and R101/R201.
In this months I'm creating my 'perfect' BOM for two chinese headphone amps clones (RSA XP7 and Lehmann Linear) so I'm evaluating new resistors and caps and finally writing down preferred direction for all of them, I'll probably update the FE BOM with my new findings.
One of those findings is that a really good metal film or even better metal foil could be better (more neutral) in those roles than carbon films or thick films.
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Does this mean that you are potentially revising your philosophy that resistors that shunt to ground should be carbon? I like to keep up on your theories.
Jac
In part... the carbon shunt sounds fuller, more musical and you loose a bit of detail but the metal shunt is more neutral and detailed.
It depends on what you're aiming for... in that particular application (headphone amp) every single bit of detail is exposed and metal film is superior.
Listening on loudspeakers is different and priorities too.
As current setting resistor now I prefer a very good quality metal film resistor.
But very good (sounding) quality MF resistors are only a tiny number... bulk metal foils, Vishay MBB 1% 50ppm (the 0.1% ones are not as good) and KOA MF 50ppm so far among the ones tested.
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Hello,
I ordered the parts via my company because RS is only for professional customers.
Thank you for your answer, your work and your experimentations! 🙂
Radio Spares way back about 3 or 4 decades ago, was a professionals' only supplier.
Now RS online supply everyone.
Now RS online supply everyone.
My_Evo measurements
Hi all,
It's a time that I had been playing - and enjoying much - Mauro's original Evo design. In the recent times we, in a small group, collected 3-4 units and played with some little mods, tweaking the sound.
In this process I had executed a series of measurements, too. Mainly for assurance that the mods did not destroy the performance.
I have noted that there might be some interest in measured results in regard the Myref topology. Mauro had done it originally, but with a bit less resolution.
I'm posting it here, because I deem this group the most active and maybe interested.. 🙂 No, I do not have Rev-E measurements.. yet.
The measurements were made with my EMU1616m soundcard, with the Evo amp inserted in the loop. I have tweaked the card settings to be around the sweet spot, so the amplitude readings are only always relative values. The real amplitude was always measured independently. The load is 7 ohms, because my old faithful 60W load resistor have that value.
So, here it is the first series:
1KHz/1W/7ohm ; 10kHz/1W/7ohm ; 1KHz/14W/7ohm ; 1KHz/25W/7ohm
Hi all,
It's a time that I had been playing - and enjoying much - Mauro's original Evo design. In the recent times we, in a small group, collected 3-4 units and played with some little mods, tweaking the sound.
In this process I had executed a series of measurements, too. Mainly for assurance that the mods did not destroy the performance.
I have noted that there might be some interest in measured results in regard the Myref topology. Mauro had done it originally, but with a bit less resolution.
I'm posting it here, because I deem this group the most active and maybe interested.. 🙂 No, I do not have Rev-E measurements.. yet.
The measurements were made with my EMU1616m soundcard, with the Evo amp inserted in the loop. I have tweaked the card settings to be around the sweet spot, so the amplitude readings are only always relative values. The real amplitude was always measured independently. The load is 7 ohms, because my old faithful 60W load resistor have that value.
So, here it is the first series:
1KHz/1W/7ohm ; 10kHz/1W/7ohm ; 1KHz/14W/7ohm ; 1KHz/25W/7ohm
Attachments
What are thes PCB's? Headphone AMP? Please explain!
What are these PCB's? Headphone AMP? Are they available? What thread?😕
What are these PCB's? Headphone AMP? Are they available? What thread?😕
Both are headphone amps, chinese clones of the Lehmann Linear and the Emmeline XP-7.
If interested you can find them on eBay or AliExpress.
I'm thinking about open a thread about them but I don't know if it's fair, since they're both clones.
Just one thing it's sure, don't buy them with parts, better the PCB only and populate them with quality parts.
Both are great sounding amps.