Of course i didn‘t.
(I remembered ZM’s bold reminder too late. Bad news awaiting?)
This was on one channel while outside the chassis. I had to bring it down from something around 1V after I powered it on.
Since it behaved as expected (bias slowly climbing while warming up and sinking when I trimmed it), I put the chassis back together and the other would have been switched on in the chassis.
Well, I thought a 2A fuse for both channels _could_ be sufficient (it’s a 500VA and 376000 uF behind a softstart). So until I am back with new fuses, I am relying on hope alone ...
(I remembered ZM’s bold reminder too late. Bad news awaiting?)
This was on one channel while outside the chassis. I had to bring it down from something around 1V after I powered it on.
Since it behaved as expected (bias slowly climbing while warming up and sinking when I trimmed it), I put the chassis back together and the other would have been switched on in the chassis.
Well, I thought a 2A fuse for both channels _could_ be sufficient (it’s a 500VA and 376000 uF behind a softstart). So until I am back with new fuses, I am relying on hope alone ...
So just to sorta punish myself (for bungling on the resistors), I found that the „whatnots“ [emoji16] weren‘t placed very good. Took that plate apart and rearranged the stuff. Of course I mixed up the orientation of the 3 subboards in every possible way and got them screwed-unscrewed about 5 times [emoji51]
Next challenge was the wiring—since I stubbornly chose some fancy mogami 2804 speakerwires for connecting the stuff, I have yet another challenge coming: speaker signal goes through the delay/dc-protection, neutral not. And those wires are stiff!
Halfway there!
Next challenge was the wiring—since I stubbornly chose some fancy mogami 2804 speakerwires for connecting the stuff, I have yet another challenge coming: speaker signal goes through the delay/dc-protection, neutral not. And those wires are stiff!
Halfway there!
still not yet.
Oh, I have the same hope, haha...
Although there are some details I'll have to take care, like the front-plate, wether or not to engrave it, stuff like that. (the little things that entitles me to finally ... brag)
I am really happy with the process even though it's already been really long.
Oh, I have the same hope, haha...
Although there are some details I'll have to take care, like the front-plate, wether or not to engrave it, stuff like that. (the little things that entitles me to finally ... brag)
I am really happy with the process even though it's already been really long.
My whatnots are causing me headaches.
Had to ditch the coax-speakerwire (way too stiff and finicky) and am flipflop about my idea of having all but one led on the front—spkrdelay is... arrhumm... not quite doing as I‘d like.
So basically I‘m a bit in the process of mounting-unmounting chassis and parts
[emoji849]
Still am convinced it is a fun thing to do [emoji851]
Had to ditch the coax-speakerwire (way too stiff and finicky) and am flipflop about my idea of having all but one led on the front—spkrdelay is... arrhumm... not quite doing as I‘d like.
So basically I‘m a bit in the process of mounting-unmounting chassis and parts
[emoji849]
Still am convinced it is a fun thing to do [emoji851]
Hmmm. Sounds like me. Haha!
But:
1: Why use speakerdelay? It is a robust amp, why complicate it?
2: the F4 is unity gain. I doubt you need coax wires or shielded for that matter. Makes little difference. Pretwisted cat5 or 6 is probably more than good enough, and flexible.
I would ditch speakerdelay and use Cat5-6. why unmount chassis?
But look who’s talking. The guy who’s gonna rebuild his BA-3 even though it is working...
But:
1: Why use speakerdelay? It is a robust amp, why complicate it?
2: the F4 is unity gain. I doubt you need coax wires or shielded for that matter. Makes little difference. Pretwisted cat5 or 6 is probably more than good enough, and flexible.
I would ditch speakerdelay and use Cat5-6. why unmount chassis?
But look who’s talking. The guy who’s gonna rebuild his BA-3 even though it is working...
Hey andynor
Thanks for the hints. You might be right about the s-delay. I was in for the protection for me being prone to bungle (protect my speakers) AND for ... the led, haha!
Not sure if I should take a different route now.
Coax is (well, was) a mogami 2804 speaker cable (the 2804 is said to be ... yadayada you know what I mean [emoji56]) so cat5 or 6 does not work. Signal-wires are fine.
I‘ll take some more time off of this build to decide which route to take
(another variant I was thinking about was a bit an ironic bow to master Pass‘ appearance here: a faceplate with a reminiscence of HAL9000 but thats a bit childish, and then the amp should be in upright position)
==========
What’s your issue whith the BA3beast?
Thanks for the hints. You might be right about the s-delay. I was in for the protection for me being prone to bungle (protect my speakers) AND for ... the led, haha!
Not sure if I should take a different route now.
Coax is (well, was) a mogami 2804 speaker cable (the 2804 is said to be ... yadayada you know what I mean [emoji56]) so cat5 or 6 does not work. Signal-wires are fine.
I‘ll take some more time off of this build to decide which route to take
(another variant I was thinking about was a bit an ironic bow to master Pass‘ appearance here: a faceplate with a reminiscence of HAL9000 but thats a bit childish, and then the amp should be in upright position)
==========
What’s your issue whith the BA3beast?
I see I see. Speaker wires, my bad. I just use fine stranded 16awg copper wire. Guess I could do better but prolly good enough.
Pauses can be good. I am on a semi-long pause, planning the final iteration of my BA-3. Maybe go 6 deep, think I will. Have the parts.
Btw you. Used PSUD. What ripple is left on your rails? Considering 0,01F caps, P2P PSU with CLC.
Pauses can be good. I am on a semi-long pause, planning the final iteration of my BA-3. Maybe go 6 deep, think I will. Have the parts.
Btw you. Used PSUD. What ripple is left on your rails? Considering 0,01F caps, P2P PSU with CLC.