I swapped out my encoder. It never set the programming sequence with start up despite being able to control the volume.
I was also able to set the start volume sequence, it is perfect now.
I was also able to set the start volume sequence, it is perfect now.
That's interesting - which encoder did you use? I couldn't find the STEC11b except ordering from Europe.
Quick update on my work. The circuit is assembled correctly but was drawing far too much current (80 mA). Couldn't find a short or solder bridge anywhere.
The ATTiny84 was measuring ~60 Ohm between Vcc and gnd. I received a fresh controller IC from Meldano and measured 1500 Ohm between Vcc and gnd, so there was some issue there. I installed the new IC and everything measures well.
I removed the encoder (an ALPS piece, but it didn't survive removal) during my debugging exercise and should receive a new piece today from Mouser (a PEC11L4220). I'll test tonight and report back.
Thanks meldano, the balanced unit works as intended. However, I don't like the feeling of the encoder. I'm looking for something without detents and a "velvet" touch, like the Alps blue pot. The encoder in my rotel av receiver feels just "right". It's EC16B243040F, but it's without switch and is not available anymore.
Maybe someone could recommend such an encoder? Would an encoder without detents work in this unit or maybe there could be problems with debouncing?
Maybe someone could recommend such an encoder? Would an encoder without detents work in this unit or maybe there could be problems with debouncing?
Very interesting. A friend just ordered a couple of sets and we are going to see if one will fit/work in an Elekit TU-8500. Also want to try a display. Mostly, this is a 
post.
post.Personally I like detents, say I want a little volume I'll go up 5 clicks, too much, back 2, etc. Personal preference.
new to smd...
Hi all
Does someone have a Mouser-Project, or a BOM with parts numbers he'd be willing to share?
And: How is this thing powered?
I am pretty new to smd, as well as electronics in general. being optimist, I got myself a PCB-kit from meldano (Thanks, meldano! 🙂 ) and had a first deeper read of the manual.
While I more less than less understood it, I will have to figure out the parts-list.
The BOM doesn't say much about what part to use, just the basic (ohm / uf etc.). So I'm confident I'll sink it without a little more detailed parts information...
Thanks to all of you!
take care
david
Hi all
Does someone have a Mouser-Project, or a BOM with parts numbers he'd be willing to share?
And: How is this thing powered?
I am pretty new to smd, as well as electronics in general. being optimist, I got myself a PCB-kit from meldano (Thanks, meldano! 🙂 ) and had a first deeper read of the manual.
While I more less than less understood it, I will have to figure out the parts-list.
The BOM doesn't say much about what part to use, just the basic (ohm / uf etc.). So I'm confident I'll sink it without a little more detailed parts information...
Thanks to all of you!
take care
david
Here's a BOM. It's missing the 100 ohm resistors on the outputs. You can search Mouser for the part numbers. Be sure to order 10 of each of the SMD items, it's often cheaper and you will probably need spares. Let me know if you need soldering advice, it's definitely doable.
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Correct, I forgot to mention that. You'll also need an external +5VDC power source if you want to add the digital display (I didn't).
Hi McQuaide
Thank you!
This will help me a lot!
Not sure when I'll make my first steps in SMD though, may take a while.
all the best
david
You'll also need a crimping tool and 22AWG wire for the power, remote, and input/output connections. You can skip all that if you just solder the wires to the boards.
regarding resistors…
I found some information about the 0805 smd's, I think I'll go with the Susumu RS...
There's also Vishay's PLTU line, they're prohibitively expensive, would they be worth it or is this just a lure to rip off naive enthusiasts?
Looking through mouser's range, there's no option to select resistor's wattage, so I guess the 1/8W is good for the Muses, right?
Ah, and regarding R1's value (100r - 1K): I won't use a display. should I go 100r anyway, or what is the point of having another value?
thank you, have a good day!
david
I found some information about the 0805 smd's, I think I'll go with the Susumu RS...
There's also Vishay's PLTU line, they're prohibitively expensive, would they be worth it or is this just a lure to rip off naive enthusiasts?
Looking through mouser's range, there's no option to select resistor's wattage, so I guess the 1/8W is good for the Muses, right?
Ah, and regarding R1's value (100r - 1K): I won't use a display. should I go 100r anyway, or what is the point of having another value?
thank you, have a good day!
david
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I intend to use it in my Mesmerize DCB1, from mighty Salas…
Should I make an independent PSU for the Muses, or can I steal it from the DCB1?
(although not sure if I'll use the display, which seems to require an external source anyway?)
Thanks to all!
Have a nice Sunday-evening!
david
Hi all, was wondering if you could help me troubleshooting. My muses is partially working. The controllerboard is working fine, volume up and down works visibly on lcd. However, if I connect signal to the volume board the output is a loud hum and when I short ground input wire to ground it is dead quiet but except for a tiny bit of music (only high frequency) volume adjustment doesn't do anything with the signal.
1. To start of, how do you guys wire the signal gnd in and out?
2. Does the display working with adjustable steps mean that muses chip is working?
Any advice on were to start looking would be great!
Robin
1. To start of, how do you guys wire the signal gnd in and out?
2. Does the display working with adjustable steps mean that muses chip is working?
Any advice on were to start looking would be great!
Robin