Hi Tom, that a nice looking chassis. Would it be possible to add some pictures how a completely built amplifier would look like? That might help visualizing the end result potential for buyers.
Yeah... My selling price is basically the QTY = 1 price you'd pay if you ordered one of these chassis from Takachi. I ordered five of each colour option and will pocket the bulk discount. That makes this one of the lowest margin products in my portfolio. At the same time it's also a pain to package these. It takes me about an hour to box up one chassis for shipping. It would be faster for me to assemble the chassis before shipping. I have the foam end caps so I can ship the assembled chassis safely.
Anyway. If I can sell 10-20 of these per year, I'll probably keep them around. But if not, I'll just assemble the rest and sell them as fully assembled amps.
You can find those pictures in the gallery on the product page. I've attached them here as well.
Tom
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There's an inside view here: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/modulus-86-build-thread.267802/post-6856264
Personally, I would have omitted the LED on the Power-86 board. It's redundant with the front-panel ON indicator. It's also quite close to the front panel.
Tom
Personally, I would have omitted the LED on the Power-86 board. It's redundant with the front-panel ON indicator. It's also quite close to the front panel.
Tom
Tom,
I decided to make small modulus 86 monoblocks in 230 x 230 2U Galaxy enclosures. I was thinking of using one of the 2U heat sinks. It looks like 100 mm length should work based on the build guide. Am I correct?
I decided to make small modulus 86 monoblocks in 230 x 230 2U Galaxy enclosures. I was thinking of using one of the 2U heat sinks. It looks like 100 mm length should work based on the build guide. Am I correct?
I don't think ModuShop has data for 2U x 100 mm, but I would think it'd be enough. You can always try punching the dimensions into one of the online heat sink calculators, such as this one: https://www.heatsinkcalculator.com/app/demo-calculator.html or this one: https://heatscapecal.com
Tom
Tom
It would probably be a little worse than 2x the 2Ux200 rating of 0.67 C/W or 1.33 C/W so maybe 1.4 C/W. I will be running 28V-30V rails into 6 ohm speakers most likely.
You can look up the units listed here:
http://www.conradheatsinks.com/products/flat100_350.html#MF30
2U 100mm would be similar to the MF10-75 model which is 75 mm x 100 mm.
http://www.conradheatsinks.com/products/flat100_350.html#MF30
2U 100mm would be similar to the MF10-75 model which is 75 mm x 100 mm.
Yeah. That's probably about right. Note that Conrad specifies their heat sinks at 80 ºC temperature rise where the heat sinks are quite efficient. At a more reasonable 30-40 ºC spread, expect around 1.2-1.3 K/W from those heat sinks. That's fine for an LM3886 playing music.
Tom
Tom
I notice some not subtly different other components on the Mod-86 board. Are they required to go with the Burson?
I'm guessing you're referring to the fancier Vishay resistors. Those aren't required.
On Modulus-86 Rev. 3.0 U2 is fair game for experimenting as it's outside the feedback loop and doesn't impact amplifier stability.
Tom
On Modulus-86 Rev. 3.0 U2 is fair game for experimenting as it's outside the feedback loop and doesn't impact amplifier stability.
Tom
Nothing different required. The Vishay resisters are all the spec'd values, they are just fat. In the picture I do have a gain resistor, but I've since removed it and prefer the stock gain. The resistors have a small impact of sound but nothing like the opamp. It's probably the biggest difference I've ever experienced from a component swap ever.
Another successful build...
Wanted to build an amplifier for quite a while and get back into soldering so I started with the LM3886DR from Neurochrome which was fun and super easy. But I wanted more and decided to also build the Modulus86 which was even more fun. Only sourcing parts is not trivial in these time, but Tom helped to find alternatives.
Sound is so clean and amazing and I never thought that my old speakers could play so well. Will still get new ones soon. Case is from Hifi2000 and the DAC I use is an EVO-Sabre from audiophonics plus Kali which will go in a similar clean case together with a Sigma11 linear power supply.
Wanted to build an amplifier for quite a while and get back into soldering so I started with the LM3886DR from Neurochrome which was fun and super easy. But I wanted more and decided to also build the Modulus86 which was even more fun. Only sourcing parts is not trivial in these time, but Tom helped to find alternatives.
Sound is so clean and amazing and I never thought that my old speakers could play so well. Will still get new ones soon. Case is from Hifi2000 and the DAC I use is an EVO-Sabre from audiophonics plus Kali which will go in a similar clean case together with a Sigma11 linear power supply.
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Cosmo23,
That is a very well executed build you have got there, congratulations.
Also good to know that you are enjoying the music with your new amplifier. 🙂
That is a very well executed build you have got there, congratulations.
Also good to know that you are enjoying the music with your new amplifier. 🙂
Very nice job! Did you have any custom drilling done on the rear panel, or did you do all the drilling yourself?
Thank you 🙂 Fortunately, I have access to some CNC-machine and a friend helped me with the planning/programming.