If your amp provides the stereo to mono conversion the FRS8 can work. The TC9FD is a better driver though. If louder is what you want then Faital Pro 3FE25 is better. Dual drivers in 0.53x sounds best if box is not too big. Dual TC9FD will be 91dB sensitive. Dual 3FE25 will be 97dB sensitive.
So there's it! Will be a 0.53x with Dual 3FE25.
I suppose that is better the 4 ohms version?
If is not asking too much, can you point me out a good amp on part-express?
Maybe this?
Yuan-Jing TDA7293 Dual Mono Amplifier Board Bundle 2 x 85W
By the way, I'm thinking in use a 12v sealed battery...
Thanks so much for the responses! If someday you guys comes to Rio will be a pleasure invite you to eat some brazilian food.
So there's it! Will be a 0.53x with Dual 3FE25.
I suppose that is better the 4 ohms version?
If is not asking too much, can you point me out a good amp on part-express?
Maybe this?
Yuan-Jing TDA7293 Dual Mono Amplifier Board Bundle 2 x 85W
By the way, I'm thinking in use a 12v sealed battery...
Thanks so much for the responses! If someday you guys comes to Rio will be a pleasure invite you to eat some brazilian food.
For dual drivers in parallel use the 8ohm version so you have 4ohm total inpedance. Most amps can't handle 2ohm load. A good amp is the TPA3116D2. YJ makes one as does Sure and many other companies now.
Dual mono? If you're going to make a dual driver cabinet with faux stereo, either 4 ohm or 8 ohm will work. As long as the total load is 4 ohms or higher it's ok.
BTW, thanks for the offer. I would love to go to Brazil and eat some Brazilian food, but it isn't really feasible at the moment...
BTW, thanks for the offer.
I would love to go to Brazil and eat some Brazilian food, but it isn't really feasible at the moment...
Last edited:
Yes. Look at post #1 and the links to the already scaled plans for 0.4x and 0.53x that are posted there. If you have another driver you want to use I sometimes will do a simulation to optimize and provide scaling in height and depth and a different one for width. This is done to change to volume while retaining the length of the TL. In that case scale drawings in height and depth with one scale and width in another scale.
Ok - but I can't get foam board and so would most likely build in plywood (we have good plywood!) - as a complete speaker (but not woodworking) novice, what would I have to do?
Because the thickness of the ply is quite different to the foam board, and I will be drawing it up in CAD and doing things like cutting dado's to drop-fit the interior baffle components (because that's really easy with a CNC), where do I start?
Take the interior dimensions (so from board face to board face) and make that my key - then scale all around to suit those dimensions, or is it more forgiving than that?
Obviously the cost goes up the thicker the board and I am only looking at something with maybe 15W+15W and bookshelf-sized - so I would probably make a pair of twin and single driver cabs.
Unable to work in inches too - but if I read it right, the foam board is about 4.75mm thick? I can source some nice hardwood ply in 5.2mm (with .1mm variance, but it's usually pretty good). Given that it's 108% of the foam board, do I need to worry?
Because the thickness of the ply is quite different to the foam board, and I will be drawing it up in CAD and doing things like cutting dado's to drop-fit the interior baffle components (because that's really easy with a CNC), where do I start?
Take the interior dimensions (so from board face to board face) and make that my key - then scale all around to suit those dimensions, or is it more forgiving than that?
Obviously the cost goes up the thicker the board and I am only looking at something with maybe 15W+15W and bookshelf-sized - so I would probably make a pair of twin and single driver cabs.
Unable to work in inches too - but if I read it right, the foam board is about 4.75mm thick? I can source some nice hardwood ply in 5.2mm (with .1mm variance, but it's usually pretty good). Given that it's 108% of the foam board, do I need to worry?
Hi
Do you think this driver is a good option for a K12?
Impedance: 8 Ohm
Minimum frequency response: 31Hz
Reproduction frequency response : Fo - 17K
SPL: 94,587db/W(m)
Rated Input: 30W
Music Power: 45W
Equivalent diagram radius: 135mm
Equivalent mass: 29,786g
Magnet wight: 1350g
Net Weight: 5050g
Fs: 31.24Hz
Re: 7.2 Ohm
Mms: 36.331g
BL: 9.810TM
QTS: 0.495
QMS: 6.907
QES: 0.534
Vas: 259.741
Xmax: 1.0mm
no: 1.435%
Thank you!
Wish you all the best!
Do you think this driver is a good option for a K12?
Impedance: 8 Ohm
Minimum frequency response: 31Hz
Reproduction frequency response : Fo - 17K
SPL: 94,587db/W(m)
Rated Input: 30W
Music Power: 45W
Equivalent diagram radius: 135mm
Equivalent mass: 29,786g
Magnet wight: 1350g
Net Weight: 5050g
Fs: 31.24Hz
Re: 7.2 Ohm
Mms: 36.331g
BL: 9.810TM
QTS: 0.495
QMS: 6.907
QES: 0.534
Vas: 259.741
Xmax: 1.0mm
no: 1.435%
Thank you!
Wish you all the best!
Plenty of people make it out of plywood - they probably adjust drawings to preserve size of internal volumes and channels. But that is the goal when using different thickness boards - preserve interior dimensions. This is a pretty forgiving design, adjustments of up to 0.25in are no big deal. If you have choice of drivers Inwould go with TC9FD or 3FE25.
Look these examples and if you still have questions you might try a PM with folks who have made plywood ones.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/239338-mini-karlsonator-0-53x-dual-tc9fds-116.html#post4149680
Good luck.
If you are in Brunei I think ordering from a closer distributor in SE Asia/Oceana might be less expensive. Faital Pro's distributor in Malaysia is:
Syarikat Instraco (M) SDN. BHD
73 & 115 Jln Pasar
PUDU, 55100
Malaysia
More info on other locations here:
FaitalPRO | Where to buy
Web: www.instraco.com
Typhany (Peerless/Vifa) have distributors here:
http://www.tymphany.com/contact/find-a-distributor/
In the US try parts express.
Syarikat Instraco (M) SDN. BHD
73 & 115 Jln Pasar
PUDU, 55100
Malaysia
More info on other locations here:
FaitalPRO | Where to buy
Web: www.instraco.com
Typhany (Peerless/Vifa) have distributors here:
http://www.tymphany.com/contact/find-a-distributor/
In the US try parts express.
Last edited:
FWIW, I redrafted it for 10mm plywood material. The side view here is the correct .53 scaled Karlsonator. I can replace the fractional inches with mm if you want, just ask.
Ignore the front view as it is a narrow custom width with reduced volume for the CHR70 driver. You will need to use someone else's front view, or redraft it yourself.
Ignore the front view as it is a narrow custom width with reduced volume for the CHR70 driver. You will need to use someone else's front view, or redraft it yourself.
Hey X, Yeah, the width came from your sim, though I fudged it up slightly to allow for some cork lining on the sides - which ultimately I didn't use. I think your sim was around 5.1", and I actually built it at 5.15". At any rate, it's splitting hairs.
At least one other set of these (as drawn) has been built for the CHR70 that I know about.
BTW, here's the link to the actual 1/2 scale drawing. download under "more"
At least one other set of these (as drawn) has been built for the CHR70 that I know about.
BTW, here's the link to the actual 1/2 scale drawing. download under "more"
Thanks so much X - this is such a helpful forum!
I gave the Thai and Indonesian distributors all a call - typically South East Asian - because of excessive profits and low sales volumes, Parts Express / Madisound is actually cheaper - even including the $50 shipping! Their cheap shipping options means I will get them quicker than from Thailand - which can take 3 weeks.
While I was sniffing around, I noticed the AuraSound NS3-193-8A was the subject of glowing references.
Seeing as I am making 'permanent' wooden cabinets and the price of $20 ea is still very affordable, how do these compare with the Vifa?
I guess they aren't going to be as loud as the bigger units, but they sure do look purty
and the reviews are all outstanding.You're a star! And I was kinda joke/digging at you lot with your ancient measuring sticks - I'm sure somewhere in the backwoods of North America things are still sold by the cubit
I can work out inch:mm just fine, Greg. And thanks for your work - it's really great!
I know my CNC is meant to be a paying enterprise, but I can see me spending far too much time and money playing with speaker cabs... I thought I got out of chasing the dragon on hifi, only to find the death by a thousand cuts of low-priced hifi
Can you tell me what these three things are just behind the baffle?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/y6498e55r21u1mw/Screen Shot 2015-01-22 at 11.22.06 am.png
Last edited:
The NS3-193 is an 80dB sensitive driver with an aluminum cone that rings like a bell at 7.5kHz, 15kHz and 17kHz. It will not sound as loud or as smooth as the Vifa TC9FD. Trabsients will be smeared with cone breakup and ringing. If doubled up you will have 86dB sensitivity - only 1 more dB than a single Vifa. Trust me on the Vifa - tough to beat even at 5x the price.