Finally I could finish the Karlson, big thanks to Freddy and xrk for the guidance.
I am not uploading the build log here but below are the details,
3/4 water resistant plywood
Surface finished with metal paste, NC putty, automotive metallic paint topped with gloss clear
Internal damping using 1inch recron sheet
2inch dia wooden spikes, almost 3inch high
Soft curtain material as grill cloth to give that vintage look as well as to take out some of the HF shout.
Wooden frame and spikes are teak wood with gloss wood polish.
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You were spot on with the LF punch of K15, it's really tight and fills the room. I have used only 3.3uf cap for the CD
absolutely beautiful! - the grill cloth even looks correct great to hear of a Karlsonator 6 build too. A Karsonator 6 is perfect for Fostex 5.
Does the single cap crossover sound pretty well balanced ? Beside that being common with vintage budget coax, the late Stan Ricker did that with Altec Duplex and recommended using motor run caps in series for large plate area.
Did you brace the back panel and wings? That can make it more neutral sounding with high input transients.
Does the single cap crossover sound pretty well balanced ? Beside that being common with vintage budget coax, the late Stan Ricker did that with Altec Duplex and recommended using motor run caps in series for large plate area.
Did you brace the back panel and wings? That can make it more neutral sounding with high input transients.
Thanks Freddi, yes the single cap is really balanced and he HF sparkles really shines. One of veteran designer also suggested motor caps over Mundrof, i am going to give it a try soon.
I have provided bracing only on the sides for attaching T nuts where both back panel and wings are attached. It's 18mm plywood, do we need additional bracing, i cna give it a try if you guys recommends .
I have provided bracing only on the sides for attaching T nuts where both back panel and wings are attached. It's 18mm plywood, do we need additional bracing, i cna give it a try if you guys recommends .
It's the F6, don't go with the manufacturer TS which is of no use.
Lii Audio Full range speaker 16 cm Diameter (6") F6 2 Pcs - Lii Audio, unique speaker, amplfier, quality and cost-saving parts for HiFi DIY
Lii Audio Full range speaker 16 cm Diameter (6") F6 2 Pcs - Lii Audio, unique speaker, amplfier, quality and cost-saving parts for HiFi DIY
The easiest way to brace the wings would be to cut two lengts of dowel rod slightly longer than the distance between the front shelf edge and back side of the wings, then insert them snug against the wings, carefully through the port (don't drop them). perhaps a disc of rubber could be cemented to each end of those struts.
The back panel should benefit from even a "sound post" style brace with a short piece of dowel attached to the center of the rear shelf then provision to tighten that from the outside oh the back panel. Two on-edge 1.5" high strips of plywood help the back panel if not using a central strut.
The back panel should benefit from even a "sound post" style brace with a short piece of dowel attached to the center of the rear shelf then provision to tighten that from the outside oh the back panel. Two on-edge 1.5" high strips of plywood help the back panel if not using a central strut.
Attachments
Sorry, I never bothered to measure the dual 3FE15-16. It is not meant to be a monitor and sounds quite nice as is. Most speakers with a Karlson aperture are not going to measure flat (far froom it probably), and perhaps may have a few sharp dips in the shape of a "W" from 300Hz to 600Hz. They also tend to roll off above 8kHz - so are well suited for drivers with a rising response. Mine are located above the kitchen soffet and not easy to take down and do a measurement.
Here is a video of the 0.40x Karlsonator’s that I made a while ago.
0.40x Karlsonator w 3FE25 - YouTube
0.40x Karlsonator w 3FE25 - YouTube
I have a couple of old Realistic "5 inch" drivers 40-1311 that are, apparently, siblings to Fostex FX120. For the moment, they're living happily and entertainingly in open baffles on my desk; but I think they may be destined for a foamex Karlsonator, perhaps en route to a wooden one.
<blockquote class="imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="a/Bug5v8E" data-context="false" ><a href="//imgur.com/a/Bug5v8E"></a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Imgur: The magic of the Internet
120mm hole. I have the foamex, scalpels, cutting mat, hot glue gun, cheap wine, confusing music, and a variety of snacks ready. Basically locked and loaded. My question- which plans should I follow?!
I've tried to link to imgur hosted pics above. Not going so well so far. I'll keep trying.
<blockquote class="imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="a/Bug5v8E" data-context="false" ><a href="//imgur.com/a/Bug5v8E"></a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Imgur: The magic of the Internet
120mm hole. I have the foamex, scalpels, cutting mat, hot glue gun, cheap wine, confusing music, and a variety of snacks ready. Basically locked and loaded. My question- which plans should I follow?!
I've tried to link to imgur hosted pics above. Not going so well so far. I'll keep trying.
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Karlsonator’s indeed have great imaging. I think several members have pointed out how they were impressed by the imaging capability. It has mostly to do with the phase coherency from 600Hz to 6kHz - is where all that stereo phantom image info is contained. This is the so called “telephone” band. If the BLH has mostly bass output below 200Hz, the imaging should still be good unless the driver is one with a whizzer cone. Whizzer cones vibrate without thought to phase as they operate on breakup modes and not pistonic mode. One reason why I don’t like whizzer cone full range drivers.