Actually looking at the Zaph 14W08, if you are ok with it’s high end limitations it might work well in the 0.53x scale version. Based on Qts and Vas.
The 30FR looks more like a midrange with Fs of 160Hz. So really no bass to speak of and needs to be crossed high above 200Hz.
The 30FR looks more like a midrange with Fs of 160Hz. So really no bass to speak of and needs to be crossed high above 200Hz.
Thanks XRK!
Yeah, I wasn't sure about the Beyma 3FR30, was hoping it might be like the 3FE22/25 and be able to hit lower notes with the Karlsonator magic (I still don't fully understand how it works).
I think the Beyma may be a bit more full range, this is what I found on it:
(see attachment, I don't know how to insert)
I might try the Zaph speaker and just play around with it. If it doesn't work out I can always use it for something else. It seems a lot of people are happy with the Karlsonator. I was kinda intrigued by a 2-way/Fast with a Karlsonator on top of a "LilMike" (also attached, credits to littlemike/radman12 on another forum) for an inexpensive but great sound. However, I don't know how to calculate what db either it will hit before xmax/rms power, I don't fully understand the unique design layouts / tapped horns. I got a little bit more exploring/learning to do.
Thanks for your help!
Yeah, I wasn't sure about the Beyma 3FR30, was hoping it might be like the 3FE22/25 and be able to hit lower notes with the Karlsonator magic (I still don't fully understand how it works).
I think the Beyma may be a bit more full range, this is what I found on it:
(see attachment, I don't know how to insert)
I might try the Zaph speaker and just play around with it. If it doesn't work out I can always use it for something else. It seems a lot of people are happy with the Karlsonator. I was kinda intrigued by a 2-way/Fast with a Karlsonator on top of a "LilMike" (also attached, credits to littlemike/radman12 on another forum) for an inexpensive but great sound. However, I don't know how to calculate what db either it will hit before xmax/rms power, I don't fully understand the unique design layouts / tapped horns. I got a little bit more exploring/learning to do.
Thanks for your help!
Attachments
even with the generous Xmax, the little Beyma may run out of excursion unless bi-amping.
FWIW look at ways to reach the little tapped horn. Midrange would be pretty easy.
Also - experiment with very small Karlson front chambers using cardboard. Make the "wedge" angle 20 degrees, coupler width maybe an inch wider than the speaker frame. Maybe a bit more if needed for the wings curve. Coupler height perhaps 6 inches.
That's a typo in the image below "1.5 LITER"
it should be 0.15 LITER
FWIW look at ways to reach the little tapped horn. Midrange would be pretty easy.
Also - experiment with very small Karlson front chambers using cardboard. Make the "wedge" angle 20 degrees, coupler width maybe an inch wider than the speaker frame. Maybe a bit more if needed for the wings curve. Coupler height perhaps 6 inches.
That's a typo in the image below "1.5 LITER"
it should be 0.15 LITER
Attachments
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A simple idea - make a one liter bass reflex back chamber and small volume K-coupler front chamber. Vent the back chamber out the rear.
I was able to use a narrow aperture with my 3" LaVoce as it has a lot of on-axis response rise. It really sounded holographic with some sounds.
For your Beyma, probably just make the aperture like a regular K. Alternately you could try a scaled JBL Ion slot in front of the cone - or if fancy, a mini -R-J.
The bottom reflex sim is at 10 watts nominal input (8.94v/8R)
I was able to use a narrow aperture with my 3" LaVoce as it has a lot of on-axis response rise. It really sounded holographic with some sounds.
For your Beyma, probably just make the aperture like a regular K. Alternately you could try a scaled JBL Ion slot in front of the cone - or if fancy, a mini -R-J.
The bottom reflex sim is at 10 watts nominal input (8.94v/8R)
Attachments
here's a slot "template" JBL style - besides scaling you could play with the aspect so as not to narrow it too much for the Beyma
Kolster - Brandes Slot Diffusor
A mini-RJ could be cool - could use an number of slots in front of the driver - "diamond" - oval - JBL- rectangular
If I could build I might pick the R-J type for some larger FR drivers
Kolster - Brandes Slot Diffusor
A mini-RJ could be cool - could use an number of slots in front of the driver - "diamond" - oval - JBL- rectangular
If I could build I might pick the R-J type for some larger FR drivers
Thank for your sins of the Beyma midrange, Freddi. I think a simple reflex or even sealed rear chamber maybe the best here to control the excursion when used as a mid range.
The JBL aperture always reminded me of animal skins stretched out. I am not into hunting but noting the similarity🙂
The JBL aperture always reminded me of animal skins stretched out. I am not into hunting but noting the similarity🙂
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I'm planning to make a soundbar to put under my TV.
drivers that comes to mind :
Dayton Audio PS95-8 3-1/2"
or
Tang Band W3-315E 3"
partnered with a Tang Band W5-1138SMF 5-1/4"
to make a 2.1 system.
Is it possible to use the Karlsonator 0.4x design on it's side for this purpose?
Or are there better alternatives?
Plan is to put left and right channel with the sub in the middle.
Total length should be below 1 meter.
High below 22 cm
drivers that comes to mind :
Dayton Audio PS95-8 3-1/2"
or
Tang Band W3-315E 3"
partnered with a Tang Band W5-1138SMF 5-1/4"
to make a 2.1 system.
Is it possible to use the Karlsonator 0.4x design on it's side for this purpose?
Or are there better alternatives?
Plan is to put left and right channel with the sub in the middle.
Total length should be below 1 meter.
High below 22 cm
Yes, Thats what I'm looking for. The 3th one from the picture with a woofer cabinet in between them make 1 big horizontal speakercabinet.
I have tried it horizontal and did not like the dispersion. It’s axis of symmetry is along the length of the aperture. Sideways you will be compromised on the polar pattern.
What is the height (standing up straight?)for this design with Dayton PS95-8 driver?
As I want it to be in a soundbar under the TV i like to keep it narrow and not too deep. Available lenght (for 2 + subwoofer space) is around 1m/3,3 ft
I've made several soundbars. A pair of folded Tabaq or Lance in a single enclosure work very well.
You can't change Karlsonator shape easily. Form follows function.
You can't change Karlsonator shape easily. Form follows function.
I was thinking about the folded TABAQ aswell.
But speaker is 44cm long. 2 of them make 88cm which leave only 12cm for the woofer box if I want to stay below 1m.
Also full range drivers will be only 66 cm (2X27cm +12cm) apart in that design. I want to push the full range driver as far apart as possible.
😕😕😕
Or should I just save me all the hastle and build a closed box for the full range drivers and a BR for the woofer?
I just want to design some kind of TL system because I like to experience how it sounds like....
maybe a soundbar isn't the best to try it, but I just finished building Paul Carmody's CARRERA and since I like them want to keep them for a long time.
Just want something with cheap drivers to improve my TV/movie experience and can play some background music. (max 2.1 system)
If you really want to improve your TV/movie experience, as well as having a good music listening experience, you should consider putting the speakers on the sides of the TV. The Karlsonators are ideal for that because of its excellent soundstage when driven by a decent amp with proper channel separation.
Having the TV inside the soundstage is like being there!
.
.
Having the TV inside the soundstage is like being there!
.
.
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Audax Karlsonator
I finally committed to gluing up the Karlsonators (only one complete so far) for which I had cut all the foamcore (except the k aperture) many months ago.
The drivers are Audax 13LB25AL. xrk kindly ran the simulation for me and ended up with 0.53X height and depth by 0.47X wide.
Mini Karlsonator (0.53X) with Dual TC9FDs
The foamcore is from a pack of black panels I ordered from Amazon last year. I used the score-and-fold method and plans (linked on page1 of this thread)
I wanted to try something slower than hot glue, so I used some clear low-VOC exterior caulk. This was a little TOO slow. 😛 I had to tape down some rail guides for the big interior fold and tape panels on exterior corners to hold the tension long enough for the caulk to cure. The big fold cured overnight.
First listening tests have been very interesting. Listening in mono in my main rig, at first it sounded harsh, shrieky, and all mids. I fooled around with bass and treble tone controls for a bit, which helped on some songs. Placed on top of my desk it sounded disappointing, honestly. However, once I placed it on the floor and stood back, everything came into place. It amazingly blends with the room exceptionally well if I am standing up. It’s quite a difference. So there is definitely a sweet spot in my room with at least one of these. In that spot, the disappearing trick happens and the sense of space is opened up. It’s fascinating. 🙂
Now I just need another 2 days to finish the second one! 🙄 I have some faster curing caulk that should be a little easier.
Process pictures attached. The final white beads will cure clear in several hours.
Thanks again to xrk for continuing his generosity with foamcore and Karlsonator designs.
I finally committed to gluing up the Karlsonators (only one complete so far) for which I had cut all the foamcore (except the k aperture) many months ago.
The drivers are Audax 13LB25AL. xrk kindly ran the simulation for me and ended up with 0.53X height and depth by 0.47X wide.
Mini Karlsonator (0.53X) with Dual TC9FDs
The foamcore is from a pack of black panels I ordered from Amazon last year. I used the score-and-fold method and plans (linked on page1 of this thread)
I wanted to try something slower than hot glue, so I used some clear low-VOC exterior caulk. This was a little TOO slow. 😛 I had to tape down some rail guides for the big interior fold and tape panels on exterior corners to hold the tension long enough for the caulk to cure. The big fold cured overnight.
First listening tests have been very interesting. Listening in mono in my main rig, at first it sounded harsh, shrieky, and all mids. I fooled around with bass and treble tone controls for a bit, which helped on some songs. Placed on top of my desk it sounded disappointing, honestly. However, once I placed it on the floor and stood back, everything came into place. It amazingly blends with the room exceptionally well if I am standing up. It’s quite a difference. So there is definitely a sweet spot in my room with at least one of these. In that spot, the disappearing trick happens and the sense of space is opened up. It’s fascinating. 🙂
Now I just need another 2 days to finish the second one! 🙄 I have some faster curing caulk that should be a little easier.
Process pictures attached. The final white beads will cure clear in several hours.
Thanks again to xrk for continuing his generosity with foamcore and Karlsonator designs.
Attachments
-
38B4A633-E8F3-48E3-9664-C3B23B2BF3B2.jpg -
1E4E4026-C462-40CA-BF3E-3911B8F0B501.jpg -
383D29BC-E585-407F-95AA-01FAEFCDFB9F.jpg -
57070A60-4BDA-47BF-A39B-D1F5F251878D.jpg -
F43B4CEC-8B8B-4E30-A1CC-DB7B210B0252.jpg -
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7AB297DB-59FD-407B-95B4-DA8DB4203A82.jpg -
F9C208D6-D622-44B0-87F7-9DF654371980.jpg
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I have my CARRERAs left and right from the TV connected to a class A SS amp. So no problem there.
I want something for watching TV and fill the room with some music.
The soundbar will also serve as support to put the TV on.
The Karlsonators design is quiet high for a soundbar. 🙁😕
Hi VonAh,
If they sound to mid heavy harsh, maybe you need bsc. Try a 1mH and 4.7ohm 10w resistor parallel with the inductor. Place that in between amp and +ve speaker input.
If they sound to mid heavy harsh, maybe you need bsc. Try a 1mH and 4.7ohm 10w resistor parallel with the inductor. Place that in between amp and +ve speaker input.
I’ll give it a shot. Thanks!
That definitely helped. I’ll live with this mono speaker for a bit and decide.
That definitely helped. I’ll live with this mono speaker for a bit and decide.
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