See posts 335 and 346 - yes, they work in either single or dual driver configurations.
CHR70.3 metal cone single driver
Make it 0.53x scale (15 in tall) by 5 inch wide.
I have a night off (from the wife and kid), a pair of CHR70 and boxes of FC (for furniture modelling). I'm hopping on this wagon! It sounds like a fun place to be.
Mr.X, how would the CHR fare in a .4K? Can't scale it down anymore because of driver size. Maybe narrower?
Make it 0.53x scale (15 in tall) by 5 inch wide.
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0.27x Micro Karlsonator
I think I have reached the limit of how small one can make these. Awhh shucks, isn't is cute?
Awesome size for a small (8 in tall x 4 in wide x 5 in deep) satellite speaker. Needs a sub as there is not much below 150 Hz. I tried using the higher quality Elmer's brand foam core with very thick facing paper. It makes a much more sturdy foam core speaker than the $1 store stuff. Harder to cut but holds very straight cuts and feels super stiff. Sounds too bright by itself but works with a sub below 200 Hz.
I think I have reached the limit of how small one can make these. Awhh shucks, isn't is cute?
Awesome size for a small (8 in tall x 4 in wide x 5 in deep) satellite speaker. Needs a sub as there is not much below 150 Hz. I tried using the higher quality Elmer's brand foam core with very thick facing paper. It makes a much more sturdy foam core speaker than the $1 store stuff. Harder to cut but holds very straight cuts and feels super stiff. Sounds too bright by itself but works with a sub below 200 Hz.
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I think I have reached the limit of how small one can make these. Awhh shucks, isn't is cute?
Yeah, sure is. All you need is some puppies to pose next to it...
That's taking the scalability much farther than I imagined! Thanks for that sim using the CHR70. I've got a pair in my pile of drivers - might have to try it.
Measurement of 0.53x with dual TC9FD's
Here are some measurements of the 0.53x with the Nautaloss tops for comparison. I think this explains why I like this speaker so much: lots of bass that reaches to 60 Hz effortlessly and a fairly uniform response with some roll-off in the HF but not too much, and clean tight impulse response for nice dynamics.
Here are some measurements of the 0.53x with the Nautaloss tops for comparison. I think this explains why I like this speaker so much: lots of bass that reaches to 60 Hz effortlessly and a fairly uniform response with some roll-off in the HF but not too much, and clean tight impulse response for nice dynamics.
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Holiday greetings! A big (huge) ups for you xrk971 and GregB!! No camera, but this speaker is my favorite nearfield. A foot from the wall and l meter from my station is very clear and refined for music, netflix etc. Currently running psuedo stereo and in keeping with the foamcore theme, I covered it with $1 sticky paper from dollar tree. Many thanks for a great design. Greg
Happy holidays Greg! I'm glad the speaker worked out for you - it is one of my favorites too and the pseudo stereo setup is awesome for casual listening or background music.
CooL! - -what can be done for Karlsonator for 15"? could it retain similar bulk to K15 but have the tradeoff of lower F3/F10 losing some hit vs K15?
here's a one-fold simple tapped pipe with 295070 Dayton/Eminence 15 vs K15 loaded with a stamped frame Nirvana 10 - -IIRC, the red trace was with the aperture plate completely removed
http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/8906/lfcomparisonk15s10vsith.gif
a Karlsonator10 would probably be the best size for me - assuming somewhat smaller than the 12.
here's a one-fold simple tapped pipe with 295070 Dayton/Eminence 15 vs K15 loaded with a stamped frame Nirvana 10 - -IIRC, the red trace was with the aperture plate completely removed
http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/8906/lfcomparisonk15s10vsith.gif
a Karlsonator10 would probably be the best size for me - assuming somewhat smaller than the 12.
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Happy holidays Freddi! Hope this message finds you in good health.
Since the sims seem to predict the bass extension and impulse well, I imagine a full size Karlsonator will have solid bass extension to 40 Hz (0 dB) and probably high 30's at -3dB. The efficiency will be less than K15 due to bandwidth-efficiency product being constant but I imagine that it will sound really good. I plan to build a full size one with the Beta12 coax's you gave me but have to move into a house with shop where I am cut wood. It might work in XPS pink foam but I think wood will be better. Although I just made an all foam core sub woofer with quad drivers that is 30 in tall x 20 in deep so maybe I may have to try it in foam?
Cheers,
X
Hi x,
Is your 0.4x Karlsonator simply your original 0.53x design and scaled down? I was looking for a source for drawings/measurements and couldn't find any info, maybe I just missed it somewhere in this thread.
Also I see you are very active with your Nautiloss setup - how does it sound compared to these things? From your descriptions so far it looks like the Nautiloss speakers are more "referency" but don't extend as low and need a sub for <200hz, whereas the Karlsonators will extend to somewhere around 70-100Hz comfortably and are somewhat better suited as full-range standalones. Does this sound right?
Is your 0.4x Karlsonator simply your original 0.53x design and scaled down? I was looking for a source for drawings/measurements and couldn't find any info, maybe I just missed it somewhere in this thread.
Also I see you are very active with your Nautiloss setup - how does it sound compared to these things? From your descriptions so far it looks like the Nautiloss speakers are more "referency" but don't extend as low and need a sub for <200hz, whereas the Karlsonators will extend to somewhere around 70-100Hz comfortably and are somewhat better suited as full-range standalones. Does this sound right?
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Yes, Nautiloss tops are reference quality but need a sub below 200 Hz. The Karlsonators are stand alone and reach 55 to 60 Hz for the 0.54x and 80 Hz for the 0.4x. Just scale it down so no new drawings. If I could only have one speaker it would be the 0.53x for all types of listening. If you have a sub and want accurate sound and great imaging, the Nautiloss works well.
Mini Karlsonator with RS 40-1354
This sim is for Johnnygrace who wants to use a Radio Shack 40-1354 driver. This driver is interesting, it ends up needing a tall and narrow profile cabinet to work right. Take the fullsize Karlsonator plan from GregB and scale the height and depth by 0.67x and the width by 0.4x. The box will be about 20 in tall and 6 in wide x 10 in deep. This driver has some really good efficiency and this design will give you a -3dB bass extension of about 55 Hz.
SPL vs Freq (in practice, the notch at 225 Hz will not be that bad):
Impedance:
Cone Displacement:
Impulse response (as usual, almost an ideal response from a Karlsonator) - you should get some really crisp dynamics and this is where it shines compared to a BR:
I think it should sound really nice. If you have more drivers and want higher efficiency or increased SPL, run dual drivers (one on top of the other) and make the box 10 in wide.
This sim is for Johnnygrace who wants to use a Radio Shack 40-1354 driver. This driver is interesting, it ends up needing a tall and narrow profile cabinet to work right. Take the fullsize Karlsonator plan from GregB and scale the height and depth by 0.67x and the width by 0.4x. The box will be about 20 in tall and 6 in wide x 10 in deep. This driver has some really good efficiency and this design will give you a -3dB bass extension of about 55 Hz.
SPL vs Freq (in practice, the notch at 225 Hz will not be that bad):
Impedance:
Cone Displacement:
Impulse response (as usual, almost an ideal response from a Karlsonator) - you should get some really crisp dynamics and this is where it shines compared to a BR:
I think it should sound really nice. If you have more drivers and want higher efficiency or increased SPL, run dual drivers (one on top of the other) and make the box 10 in wide.
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Thanks X -
This kinda blows my whole bookshelf speaker size idea....regardless this enclosure seems really interesting so I'm go go full steam ahead and figure out where to put it later.
I'm going to build most likely out of 1/2" plywood....but could always go mdf or even 3/4." Looks like GregB's original Karlsonator drawing is for 3/4" plywood and doesn't show any bracing - only essential parts. I tried looking through the forum to see if anyone used 1/2" in a scaled size without bracing but couldn't find any info. Should be fine I think at only 6" wide.
X - I saw that your Micro Karlsonator was successful just lacking bass. I just completed a bluetooth boombox a la... The Sprite - self-contained ND90 boombox
and have a spare Dayton Audio ND90-8 3-1/2" Aluminum Cone Full-Range Driver 8 | 290-210 laying around. I wonder if it would work in a variation of the Micro Karlsonator? I've also got a Tang Band W3-593SF 3" Full Range Silver Cone Driver | 264-809
laying around and wonder if this would work as well....maybe I'll try and build something out of cardboard scraps just so I can have some fun experimenting before I get time to hit the shop for a wood build.
This kinda blows my whole bookshelf speaker size idea....regardless this enclosure seems really interesting so I'm go go full steam ahead and figure out where to put it later.
I'm going to build most likely out of 1/2" plywood....but could always go mdf or even 3/4." Looks like GregB's original Karlsonator drawing is for 3/4" plywood and doesn't show any bracing - only essential parts. I tried looking through the forum to see if anyone used 1/2" in a scaled size without bracing but couldn't find any info. Should be fine I think at only 6" wide.
X - I saw that your Micro Karlsonator was successful just lacking bass. I just completed a bluetooth boombox a la... The Sprite - self-contained ND90 boombox
and have a spare Dayton Audio ND90-8 3-1/2" Aluminum Cone Full-Range Driver 8 | 290-210 laying around. I wonder if it would work in a variation of the Micro Karlsonator? I've also got a Tang Band W3-593SF 3" Full Range Silver Cone Driver | 264-809
laying around and wonder if this would work as well....maybe I'll try and build something out of cardboard scraps just so I can have some fun experimenting before I get time to hit the shop for a wood build.
All those drivers will work, it is just a matter of scaling size in sim to make sure it matches the T/S parameters. As you see, there was no way I could have guessed that it would require a 20 in tall x 6 in wide x 10 in deep Karlsonator to be optimal for the 40-1354.
If you want to experiment, go to Dollar Tree and buy some $1 sheets of foam core. Get a cheap glue gun and hot melt glue sticks (Kmart actually has best price on the glue sticks). It works so much better than cardboard.
I would personally not go any smaller than the 0.4x scale as the micro really is not much better than a sealed box in terms of bass. Just too short of a TL to do any good. But if you want a cute project, it is small and easy to make in foam core.
Good luck.
If you want to experiment, go to Dollar Tree and buy some $1 sheets of foam core. Get a cheap glue gun and hot melt glue sticks (Kmart actually has best price on the glue sticks). It works so much better than cardboard.
I would personally not go any smaller than the 0.4x scale as the micro really is not much better than a sealed box in terms of bass. Just too short of a TL to do any good. But if you want a cute project, it is small and easy to make in foam core.
Good luck.
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